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Installing a coolant filter WITHOUT cutting the hoses?

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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #1  
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Installing a coolant filter WITHOUT cutting the hoses?

This is an old & over discussed topic, but I for one am not quite ready to drink the kool-aid on the coolant filter mod, "yet".

My "Top 5" concerns are:

1- A trend in post across several forums where folk, after running through several filter changes, test their Nitrite levels and find them severely deficient ("Hey Joe, what's this jelly stuff on my coolant filter" ... "eh, I'm not sure Bob, probably nothing").
2- The low, low, warranty claims on 6.0L water pumps.
3- The lack of evidence that sand in the coolant system is the root cause of oil cooler/EGR failures ... when its more apparent that both are just poorly designed and/or manufactured.
4- Knowing from being a former Engineer w/ a major OEM that Navistar was most likely well aware of the amounts of sand left in engine blocks and had specifications on what was acceptable amount and what was not.
5- Adding more leak points.

With all this .. I'm still on the fence nonetheless. I'd definitely source the parts myself & fab my own bracket, neither are hard to find or do. However, I'd be more "warm" to doing the mod if it was a little less invasive ... meaning no cutting into the factory hoses.

For instance, when I changed my steering gear box, I added a Magnifine Power Steering Fluid Filter to the line from the Hydroboost to the Reservoir. I didn't cut the line, I simply acquired a length of hose and segmented it in there at the Hydroboost nipple. I'll let it run this way through two scheduled changed of this particular filter & then return the system back to stock.

Could this not be done with a coolant filter? A similar method at the Degas nipple or Radiator nipple could easily be done for that tie in ... and there is also an available connection where the heater hose clamps to the metal pipe near the front of the block. With an installtion like this, I could run the filter through several changes and then return the system back to its original engineering (along with checking my nitrite levels).

Has anyone else went this route rather than cutting into the factory hoses?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 05:40 PM
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Sounds like your mind is made up. Do it!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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I installed a coolant filter after replacing my oil cooler and egr cooler. The oil cooler was full of casting sand. This was at 90k. If you want to see the sand shoot me an email at janton02@comcast.net and I will send you the photos of the oil cooler. My coolant filter taps at the heater and returns to the degas bottle. Used the Napa system
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 06:06 PM
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^ +1 the low water pump failure shouldn't be all that rules you out. All the water pump is is a little fan spinning. Look at all the oil cooler failures and what caused that.

As for your #4. Every vt365 (6.0) that navistar ever built with there name on it, they recalled to have a coolant filter put on. So that should sell you right there.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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I did the filter install 30 minutes ago ,, you could do it without cutting the factory hoses IMHO you may need to swap some out and save the preformed for reinstallation at a later date ,,
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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I've never read about a leaking coolant filter system that wasn't caused by installer error. The way my DieselSite filter ties in keeps the engine bay looking neat, and nothing is in the way for maintenance. But hey, knock yourself out.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 06:50 PM
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Keep in mind that the coolant (same as oil) are bypass filtration setups...where your PS filter and CCV filters are full flow filtration setups...if your coolant filter should become blocked...you will not be a happy camper. The Racor Magnefine filter (PS filter) and Racor CCV6000 filters both have built in bypass valves, so when the filter media becomes blocked the flow will go around. With both Baldwin coolant filters and Amsoil's EABP =<2micron filters there are no built in bypass...so when they become blocked there is not an issue. Also check out this article from Diesel Tech Society.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-09-02.php
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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The filters that are used for this mod are the "non-charged" type. It has been posted here that using charged filters causes the scenario you created. I must be one of the kool-aid drinkers. After deleting a failed egr cooler and just back flushing the oil cooler, I went 16000 miles before the oil cooler had a catastrophic failure. I installed a new oil cooler and cut up the old one. It was clogged with sand. As was said before, International installed coolant filters on everything after a recall. It is my opinion that FMC should have done the same thing. My truck will not move another foot without the coolant filter. After installing my Dieselsite system, the first filter only went 350 miles before clogging solid with sand. The second filter went about a 1000 miles before clogging. The third one, which I checked today, is still flowing a full stream after 1200 miles. The very first filter, my original oil cooler, did make it 116000 miles but it was a b**** to change and it made a big mess. If you have not done so, you might want to check your ect/eot temps to see the difference in the readings. Your truck, but my kool-aid tastes like fine wine so far.

Regards
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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janton01, Thanks for the pictures of your oil cooler. Looks like the same crud that was built up on the bottom of my degas bottle. You should post those.

Thanks again!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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Cutting or replacing a hose is no big deal, been doing it for 35 years and I am going to attack another hose next week. I don't care what IH thinks or recommends because they released engines with torque to yield head bolts that were loose. A true reality in the production process, Engineering and Quality Control take a back seat for production numbers on a report. My truck, my engine but it is your choice to question the methods of installing a filter and what the true root cause of failed oil coolers are.

I can tell you one thing, this garbage is not floating around in my engine block anymore and no one can argue that casting sand released over a period of time is a good thing. Acceptable amount is the corporate definition of Gamble, Do you feel Lucky?





 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:21 AM
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I'll probably get rid of my coolant filter after a few more filter changes. When I do, I'll just buy new hoses to replace the ones that I cut. They are 5 years old now, so i don't feel too bad about replacing them.
 

Last edited by CAMPINGTOM; Mar 11, 2010 at 08:21 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:31 AM
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The sand migrates out of the casting over time, the filter would be most effective when installed permanently.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxium4x4
The sand migrates out of the casting over time, the filter would be most effective when installed permanently.

You are probably right. We have seen significantly less debris in each filter. I have other reasons not to have it under the hood anymore.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:48 AM
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I agree with Maximum's comments. The filter will continue to work, but each "next" filter will last longer. I do not see an advantage in removing the system. I would be curious about your other reasons?

Regards
 

Last edited by rickatic; Mar 11, 2010 at 08:49 AM. Reason: added a question
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxium4x4
The sand migrates out of the casting over time, the filter would be most effective when installed permanently.
Also from what I have read, nitrates drop out as the coolant loses its properties over time and heating/cooling cycles. I agree, a permanent installation.
 
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