rotors
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 39
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From: PA
rotors
hey all how the heck do i change my rotors on my 90 f150 its on stands right now and i cant figure it out i took the entire thing off but now i cant get the hub part out or did i get the wrong rotor cause the hub looks like it comes apart but it doesnt
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
I've never worked on a truck with auto hubs, so you are on your own for getting them out. I tried it once in a junkyard and gave up because I couldn't figure it out.
Once the hubs are removed, you need a 4-prong spindle socket to get the spindle nuts off. Once the nuts are removed, the rotor will slide off. If you are replacing just the rotor, you'll need to pound the studs out from the back and replace the rotor. You will re-use the hub. You can either press the studs in or pull them through with an impact wrench, some kind of spacer nut and a lug nut. Either way will warp the rotors so you'll need to have them turned after they are back together.
Don't forget to repack or replace the bearings. The parts stores sell a cheap bearing greaser that actually works really well.
Once the hubs are removed, you need a 4-prong spindle socket to get the spindle nuts off. Once the nuts are removed, the rotor will slide off. If you are replacing just the rotor, you'll need to pound the studs out from the back and replace the rotor. You will re-use the hub. You can either press the studs in or pull them through with an impact wrench, some kind of spacer nut and a lug nut. Either way will warp the rotors so you'll need to have them turned after they are back together.
Don't forget to repack or replace the bearings. The parts stores sell a cheap bearing greaser that actually works really well.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Little hard to follow, you have the rotor/hub assembly off the truck but can't get the rotor off the hub?
Knock the studs out the back side, put a lug nut on each one until even with the end of the stud (to protect the threads), use solid square hammer blows to knock the studs down and out the back side.
Put the new rotor on the hub using the lug nuts put on the studs backwards to draw them back into place (lug nut bevel out), use a large flat washer if needed to take up a little space on the stud.
Knock the studs out the back side, put a lug nut on each one until even with the end of the stud (to protect the threads), use solid square hammer blows to knock the studs down and out the back side.
Put the new rotor on the hub using the lug nuts put on the studs backwards to draw them back into place (lug nut bevel out), use a large flat washer if needed to take up a little space on the stud.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 39
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From: PA
you know how its the rotor and then the cylinder the hubs would be in ? thats what i cant figure out does that seperate ? thats whats holding me up cause i cant figure out how to seperate the to parts
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Knock the wheel studs out, you know the bolts that hold the rim/wheel on? Knock them out, knock them from the "outside" toward the "inside" and the two parts, rotor and hub will separate from each other.
Lay the rotor/hub on the ground outside up, put a nut on until even with the end of a stud, take a hammer and drive the stud down until free. Do so for all five studs.
Lay the rotor/hub on the ground outside up, put a nut on until even with the end of a stud, take a hammer and drive the stud down until free. Do so for all five studs.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: PA
alright ill give it a shot thank you all for the help i appericate it ill let you know how it goes
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
I have yet to replace the studs when replacing a rotor, I've replaced several over the years. Of course I remove them without beating the crap out of em too, no damage to the threads or otherwise so no reason to replace them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth
There is a good reason. At this point, they are very old and have been under quite a bit of stress and strain over the years. They're already out and bolts are cheap. Beats shearing one off two months from now when they overtorque your lug nut at the tire shop and you have to do this all over again.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: PA
i got it all finished the breaks and rotors work good now and i changed the fuel fitler and my studs are fine they looked brand new so i didnt think it was worth getting new ones thank you all for the help