I am in the process of restoring my old truck. I need to replace all the wiring. Where can I find all wire sets I need for my truck. Is it possible to for them to match the exact color of wiring? I am trying to keep it as original as possible. Its a 65 F100 with a V8 352.

 

There are couple routes to go; aftermarket, or repro's. Replaced the wire harnesses in the 65 with Repro's purchased from Mr. Mustang, Inc,; their harnesses have same connectors, and wire color codes as originals, matter of unplugging the old and plug in the new. Only issue is they do not reproduce the dash harness, have not found anyone who does. Reconditioned the dash harness on the 65 by using plastic ties to hold the harness intact while I took it apart, found it easier to handle than speading out the entire harness. Repaired damaged wires and added couple extra circuits. If decide to go this route, strongly suggest using harness wrap, it does not have the adhesive backing, much easier to work with, can used regular electrical tape to secure ends together if so desire. Posting pic of the Alt. harness, I was pleased with the quality. It's has been several years ago, they reproduce the Ford 64-67 Pickup harnesses, Alt harness $50, headlight/taillight harness came to $100 ea., dome and fuel harness around $20 ea., they are a single wire and easy to make up. Understand couple of the Ford part suppliers also carry them, suggest compare prices.


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If the dash harness can't be salvage then may want to consider going with the aftermarket kits. Seem to recall number of members mentioned installing the kit and pleased with outcome. May want to campare kits to cost of individual harnesses.

 

Some people say painless is a good setup. I had trouble with my wiring for years. One short here, one bad connection there. The plug that went into the firewall the connectors simply corroded into. I got tired of that and the last time I redid the truck a few years ago I put everything back new. I got a new spade fusebox from my local auto parts store. only thing I reused was the wires from my heater to switch, and the wiper to switch. I also reused the connector that went on the light switch. What I did was found a lot of diagrams of similar Fords at the old car manual project. They have quite a few diagrams there. I also found a bronco diagram at a bronco site. The bronco looks almost like a 66 truck.

I had pulled all the wires out and put in a box. When I got the truck back together I took the wires out and stripped the plastic wrap that looks like black tape off. I then cut one of the wires off the fusebox at a time. I would cut the wire going to stuff. I would then pull it out of the rats ness wiring I had. I would run a new wire to the fuse box and then to the item it went to. Each time the nest got smaller. I also rewired under the hood like that.

I would solder the wires together and if I attached them to spades and stuff I would crimp and also solder them. I used very little of the original stuff. Mainly the connectors I couldn't find new or wires or the wires from the wiper,heater to the switch. In behind the dash I added about 18 inches or so over original. So that way if I needed to take the dash out I could set it on the seat so it wouldn't hang and scratch the paint. I was really glad I did because it was helpful. The fusebox I got had extra circuits so I put the radio,lighter, and other stuff on their own fuse.

It took a little time but it was worth it. I was able to redo it for under 50 bucks. I got lucky and bought some new wire from a factory that makes machines at my local recycler. The wire was 50 feet or less and different colors. I paid about 5 bucks a few years back . The only other stuff I bought was the fusebox and some connectors,crimp on plugs. I have had it rewired about 4 years and have had no issues. Well worth the time in my case. It was the biggest trouble I had in keeping it running.

 

Thanks both for answering.

Dave-which is the website for the wire harnesses is it mrmustanginc.com or mrmustang.com. I went to both but they only talk about ford mustang wire sets. Did they use the same wire sets as the F100's during that time?

*****- thanks for the insight. I have the same problems you use to. I get shorts every now and again. I lost my ammeter once that way and had a hard time finding another OEM replacement. Where did you find all the wiring and where can I find the wiring?

My truck is in great shape but the problem is some of the wires are showing signs of being 45 years old and I just want to replace them all. I dont care if it is going to be hard work or tedious im just worried about getting it done right. I just need help knowing where to start. I would post some pics of it but it doesnt let me add attachments.

 

Sounds like the electical gremlins will be an issue until wiring is replaced, and or repaired. I found the wiring manual very helpful in sorting it all out. Majority of the Ford part suppliers carry them, or purchase directly from the distributer, Jim Osborn Reproductions, the cost of $7 plus s/h was well spent.

Product List

Did not find the Ford truck harness on their web site, had to call. Posting a link to the last price list which is few years old. If interested, suggest contacting them for a current list, may want to inquire about their return policy.

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Posting a link from thread member posted on method he used to repair the main connection block, may find other thread by running a search and narrow field to the 61-66 forum:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...=1#post8358858

 

gamiochipi:

I got my 1965 replacement harnesses from NPD. While they don't list it, they are all Mr. Mustang. Top quality, just plug and play and yes the colors match factory. However, they don't have any under dash harnesses. I also bought the wiring manual which helped with all the under dash issues.

 

NPD is also where I got mine since they have a Ford Trucks catalog where it is easy to find. Just bought my last one for replacing the harness to the tail lights after the PO made cuts in them for towing hookups that I don't need. This one is long and not cheap.

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http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.as...Code=ord10flx#

 

It wasn't too hard to get what I need. First I have to explain what was wrong with it. The biggest issue I had was with connectors exposed to the elements for over 40 years. The firewall plugs, grounds,etc. The other was owner created issues. In other words splices I had made to fix stuff like just bypassing the firewire plugs and wiring directly. Some of the wiring was actually good. I reused the wires between the switches and heater/wipers. I also used the plug that went to the light switch. But I cut the wires from the switch about 6 inches out. I also reused the plugs to the headlight. A lot of the connectors I just used standard crimp connectors that I crimped and also soldered. I just removed all the wiring and when I got ready to rewire I removed the black tape covering on the wires so I could get to each wire. I laid it all out in the floor. I bought the wiring from a recycler I think maybe about 5 bucks. It was leftover ends from spools a factory had used in wiring for their production line. Most of the wires were between 20 and 50 feet.

About the only thing I bought new was the fusebox I got at a parts store for under 30 bucks and the connector plugs I got in kits or bags to save money.
The gromlets that I used where the two plugs were at I got off old Apple computers. If you have a Apple repair place around you ask if they have any of the "gumdrop" apple computers and that you need the gromlet that is on the door that the keyboard goes in. I got two of them and they are a perfect fit. these were the multicolored Apple desktops that are about 9 years old now. I just run my wires through that. I also got some of the plastic tubing on sale from MCM electronics for about 10 as well.

All I did to rewire it was to label each wire going throught the cab with a number. The firewall plugs where long since gone. I labeled each one different. In other words pin one I labeled "1" on the wire going in and also labeled the one inside "1" as well. If your plug is still there you don't have to do that. Then I pulled the wires out to store them as I fixed the truck. When I got ready to rewire I laid it all out. I would cut one lead going ot stuff at a time. For example I cut the heater wire at the fusebox and pulled it out of the wiring. I then soldered a new wire to the fusebox and ran it the way I wanted to under the dash to the heater switch. I then cut that old wire about 4 inches out and soldered it to the new wire. I ran a new one directly from the fusebox to the radio. If stuff had two items originally I just put each on a fuse. The fuse box I got had about double the fuses. I think I still might have one extra fuse open.

It was not as hard as you think if you have had experence in wiring stuff. I soldered every connection which I recomend. I would just use the original wiring for a "diagram" if it had not been changed so I couldn't tell how it went. If the wiring was messed up or I couldn't understand like I had to do with the alternator and most wires in the engine area I went back to the 67 bronco diagram I found online. If you can get a original diagram that would be even better. I also had a "junkers" old wiring to pull connectors off if needed. I had to use a few bulb holders off that wiring from the junker. I hope that helps just ask if you have questions. Good luck.

 

Thanks everyone for the insight I am going to buy they wiring diagrams and look at NPD for the wiring. Right now I just attempted to switch an after market starter switch with a motorcraft one SW583. But I dont know which post is what and they are not labeled anyone know?