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I know that doing the EGR delete is very good for the 6.0 (or any diesel with an EGR system), but exactly how much does it help it out? I had a friend of mine tell me the other day that EGR failure and oil cooler failure are more of a cause of blown head gaskets than the head bolts. He said that when the oil cooler or EGR system fails it starts leaking coolant and causes this whole chain of events that causes the head gaskets to blow. I know the bolts get too hot and expand and the heads seperate from the block and that blows the gaskets, but the way he explained it, the bolts get too hot because of the EGR system failure and the loss of coolant and all that good stuff. Does this sound accurate?
still a really good idea to do studs. EGR cooler is probably the #1 reason for HG to fail, but it is not the only reason. The factory TTY bolts just plan suck. You could just delete the egr and wait till you blow a HG then install the studs. You may or may not ever blow the HG. Some do some dont.
still a really good idea to do studs. EGR cooler is probably the #1 reason for HG to fail, but it is not the only reason. The factory TTY bolts just plan suck. You could just delete the egr and wait till you blow a HG then install the studs. You may or may not ever blow the HG. Some do some dont.
Sounds like my best bet then would be to do the EGR delete to get the biggest problem out of the way, then just start saving my money up to get the whole studs and gaskets done. But, MKM Customs has a 6.0 Solutions Kit that includes ARP studs, their EGR delete kit, Sinister HGs, a new Ford Oil Cooler, factory Intake Gaskets, and a factory Turbo Hardware/Gasket Kit for $1,350. Does that sound like a good deal? I've never heard of the intake gaskets or turbo hardware/gaskets being a weak link on the 6.0s. Anybody know about this?
If you are going to the trouble of tearing this thing apart for an EGR delete, do yourself a huge favor and replace the oil cooler at the same time. One hour more work to do and a huge gain in peace of mind. Then immediately install a coolant filter.
If you are going to the trouble of tearing this thing apart for an EGR delete, do yourself a huge favor and replace the oil cooler at the same time. One hour more work to do and a huge gain in peace of mind. Then immediately install a coolant filter.
I've heard of some guys doing an oil cooler rebuild. Is it worth it or should I just get a new one? And where is the coolant filter located?
to rebuild the cooler takes about 20-30 min. its also $300 less.
the coolant filter is locacted at the store.. you would need to buy a complete kit.
I bought mine from my dealer for $220, about the same on Ebay
I hope the OP looks under the hood now. Seriously, the oil cooler is located directly under the oil filter/fuel filter housing. Not to hard to get it out when you have all the rest of the stuff you will need to remove out of the way. The oil cooler sits down in a reservoir in the valley of the engine. While you have the cooler out, suck the quart or so of oil out of the reservoir. You will find the $12 HPOP oil screen in the bottom. Replace it. Be very meticulous in cleaning out the reservoir. You can not be too careful or too clean here. Do not leave any cloth or paper towel remnants in the reservoir. The HPOP screen is the last defense before the oil hits the HPOP. It does not take much to take out the IPR screen. Good Luck
I bought mine from my dealer for $220, about the same on Ebay
I hope the OP looks under the hood now. Seriously, the oil cooler is located directly under the oil filter/fuel filter housing. Not to hard to get it out when you have all the rest of the stuff you will need to remove out of the way. The oil cooler sits down in a reservoir in the valley of the engine. While you have the cooler out, suck the quart or so of oil out of the reservoir. You will find the $12 HPOP oil screen in the bottom. Replace it. Be very meticulous in cleaning out the reservoir. You can not be too careful or too clean here. Do not leave any cloth or paper towel remnants in the reservoir. The HPOP screen is the last defense before the oil hits the HPOP. It does not take much to take out the IPR screen. Good Luck
I noticed you did the FCDP EGR delete. Is that whole kit necessary...the whole intake manifold and what not?
I am very happy with the FCD kit. The quality of the workmanship is excellent. If you go that route, have Adam send you one with the "keep the egr valve" option. He will leave the egr mount open so you can stick the egr valve in it for a sneaky look. When I bought mine, the other kits, without the manifold, were almost the same price. I think the competition has driven the price of those kits way down, looks to me about half of what they were. The ones advertising the "no intake removal" will not save you the work of removing the intake if you are replacing the oil cooler core.
I am very happy with the FCD kit. The quality of the workmanship is excellent. If you go that route, have Adam send you one with the "keep the egr valve" option. He will leave the egr mount open so you can stick the egr valve in it for a sneaky look. When I bought mine, the other kits, without the manifold, were almost the same price. I think the competition has driven the price of those kits way down, looks to me about half of what they were. The ones advertising the "no intake removal" will not save you the work of removing the intake if you are replacing the oil cooler core.
Thanks for the help, but what do you mean by a sneaky look?
Oh. Well I live in SC so we have no emissions laws or testing at all. As a matter of fact, I was totally against the whole cash for clunkers thing because it's gas hoggs like us who keep fuel prices down. Once everything is getting 40-50mpgs then you still won't win cause then it'll be about $20/gal. But I'm totally against anything Obama is for.
Give me my gas hogg, my guns, and the rest of my constitution, and them liberal democrats can keep the "change"!