cranking slow
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,004
Likes: 2,747
From: Virginia
If you pull the starter, see if it falls on your head, or you have jerk and pull to get it off.
We went through this same thing with a f350 dump. New starter, new batteries, still would not crank fast enough. They finally brought it to me to look at, and I figured it had to be the new starter or the cables.
I had a used starter that I knew was good, so I decided to try that first. When I went to get the brand new starter out to put the used one in, it would not come out. I had to pull and jerk and finally got it out. That's when I saw all the corrosion where the starter mounted. It even had old corroded aluminum from the previous starter still stuck to the cast iron. I had to take a drill with a small grinding wheel on it and grind the face where the starter mounted clean. I then sprayed a little wd40 on it and used new bolts, bolted the starter back up and that engine flys when you hit the keyswitch now, and the engine starts right up.
We went through this same thing with a f350 dump. New starter, new batteries, still would not crank fast enough. They finally brought it to me to look at, and I figured it had to be the new starter or the cables.
I had a used starter that I knew was good, so I decided to try that first. When I went to get the brand new starter out to put the used one in, it would not come out. I had to pull and jerk and finally got it out. That's when I saw all the corrosion where the starter mounted. It even had old corroded aluminum from the previous starter still stuck to the cast iron. I had to take a drill with a small grinding wheel on it and grind the face where the starter mounted clean. I then sprayed a little wd40 on it and used new bolts, bolted the starter back up and that engine flys when you hit the keyswitch now, and the engine starts right up.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
Another thing you could do before you start tearing things apart, simply feel all the wires and connections to see if they are hot. Be careful since Amps X Resistance = HEAT. Any warm place is a problem.
Last edited by Marianna2003; Mar 3, 2010 at 10:30 PM. Reason: Correct Spelling
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Eaton, CO
It is! I sprayed that stuff on anything that squeaked on my truck last year. Still no squeaks. I sprayed it on a rust spots on the paint and it still has that lanolin snot on it.
I never thought about using it for battery terminals.
I never thought about using it for battery terminals.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
From: Perry Georgia
Coke and duct tape, two greatest inventions since sliced bread. I 2X the cables being the problem. I had the same problem way back when.
BTW, the older battery will pull the new battery down.
BTW, the older battery will pull the new battery down.
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Former Vendor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I also think your problem is cables.
The corrosion in inside the clamp where the conductors join to each other and the passenger side clamp.
No way to see it, no way to clean it.
I had that problem several years ago, I cut the clamp open after I replaced the cable and don't see how it ever started or the batteries charged at all.
If you try cranking the engine, then CAUTIOUSLY check the passenger side positive clamp to see if it is hot, you will probably find a very hot clamp and your problem.
The corrosion in inside the clamp where the conductors join to each other and the passenger side clamp.
No way to see it, no way to clean it.
I had that problem several years ago, I cut the clamp open after I replaced the cable and don't see how it ever started or the batteries charged at all.
If you try cranking the engine, then CAUTIOUSLY check the passenger side positive clamp to see if it is hot, you will probably find a very hot clamp and your problem.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 859
Likes: 2
From: Port Orchard, WA
I cut the cable insulation a few inches both sides of the passenger clamp. Nothing but clean shiny copper, so I wrapped it back up with electrical tape.
The starter is coming out today. I'll have it tested and make sure the contact to the block is clean.
Thanks
-Matt
The starter is coming out today. I'll have it tested and make sure the contact to the block is clean.
Thanks
-Matt
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
From: Southwest Florida Coast
don't take it to napa or any other AUTO parts store, their testers don't have the capacity to test a starter the size of ours. I made that mistake and fried their tester, figured if the starter could do that, it must be good.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 859
Likes: 2
From: Port Orchard, WA
I'd be very surprised if the NAPA test machine couldn't handle this starter. There's a reason I'm not taking it to the Schucks one, that would not be a surprise.
As far as a new starter goes, I understand that the gear reduction starters made for these trucks are far superior to the original direct drives. Is this correct?
Thanks
-Matt
As far as a new starter goes, I understand that the gear reduction starters made for these trucks are far superior to the original direct drives. Is this correct?
Thanks
-Matt
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I run Mitsubishi gear reduction starters only in mine.
The only way to go in my opinion.
Get some liquid electric tape, paint the tape with it and seal it to the battery clamp as well.
I hope your cable is still good, inside the clamp.
When I cut mine open with a 4" grinder and a cut off wheel, the corrosion was inside the metal clamp.
No way I could salvage the cable after I cut it open, but I had enough of start this time, not the next.
Outside the only indication of a problem was the heat discolored and brittle insulation next to the clamp.
When I cut the clamp open, the end of the 3/0 cable going down to the starter had melted.
The whole 2/0 wire that crosses over to the drivers side battery was full of green corrosion inside the clamp.
And most of the power wire going to the glow plug relay/starter relay was gone.
New cable and no more starting problems.
The only way to go in my opinion.
Get some liquid electric tape, paint the tape with it and seal it to the battery clamp as well.
I hope your cable is still good, inside the clamp.
When I cut mine open with a 4" grinder and a cut off wheel, the corrosion was inside the metal clamp.
No way I could salvage the cable after I cut it open, but I had enough of start this time, not the next.
Outside the only indication of a problem was the heat discolored and brittle insulation next to the clamp.
When I cut the clamp open, the end of the 3/0 cable going down to the starter had melted.
The whole 2/0 wire that crosses over to the drivers side battery was full of green corrosion inside the clamp.
And most of the power wire going to the glow plug relay/starter relay was gone.
New cable and no more starting problems.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 256
Likes: 0
From: Good old Oswego.
Is it necessary to run 3/0 to the starter from the battery? I made a new cable and used 2/0 from the passenger battery to the drivers and then down to the starter. I made one continuous line with a terminal soldered on for the passengers side. Also, what size wire are you guys using for the starter wire from the relay to the starter? How about from the BAT post on the alternator to the relay? I'm just trying to get some ideas here so i can get things wired properly. I'm gonna go look for a 3G alternator i think. I'm planning on putting a stereo system in the truck soon so I want it to be able to handle the power demands to run it. Ohh, does the ground cables from the battery have to be mounted to the front two spots on the block??? I was thinking about relocating them to the back where the tranny mounts to the block using the top two bolts?? I have a little oil leak problem on the front and I think it's causing a bad connection between the cable and the block.
