Really appreciate all the replies. Justin's points well made regarding the reverse flow issue and dealership ESP accountability. Very well may come down to identifying an experienced, reputable tech with up-to-date equipment. Virtually all of the family-owned, 25+ years-in-business shops I've spoken with claim they will not do flushes without the customer's "held harmless" clause. The risk of flushing (regardless of the mileage) resulting in a failed transmission that won't back off the lift is apparently too great.

On the other hand, national franchisee transmission repair (pay-me-now or pay-me-later) companies will contend flushing is the absolute best guard against all transmission failure. $99 specials as common as furniture sales.

Fluid on my 40k Lariat sweetheart's dip stick is pink and pretty and smelling clean as a whistle. I'd be shocked if a closer look in its pan would be any different. I might agree that most forum participants are interested in problem-solving suggestions as opposed to those of us ****, prevention seekers. Who among us feels any better than after our truck's oil/filter change?

I've started to lean slightly towards a drain mentality. But flushing and replacing entirely just sounds so much more satisfying. I hope opinions and experiences will continue being posted.

 

I have a 2006 and had my tranny flushed at my local ford dealer at 26k miles. At 28k miles my tranny was cooked and the seal in my transfer case was blown and overfilled the transfer case. Previous to the flush I had no problems with the tranny. Ford covered it under warranty and replaced with a new tranny and cooler. Just had to pay my $100 ded. So if you ask me no I would not recommend a tranny flush. For those who go for the flush..good luck.

 

I have mine flushed every 35-40,000 miles at Ford. The transmissions on the 04+ trucks are thermostatically controlled and they need to be hot to get the fluid to dump. I tow regularly and I tow heavy! I always talk to the tech that works on my truck. He is straight up and honest. I asked him last flush how the fluid looked. He told me that the fluid was in great condition. I also have him drop the pan and clean the screen. There has NEVER been any filings or gunk on the screen. It takes 14qts of fluid to flush the trans completely. For those people that are just dropping the pan, you are only changing about 1/3 of the fluid and then contaminating it with the fluid you just put in. Thats a waste of time and $$$ if you ask me. Ford recommends changing the fluid and following their extreme duty cycle if towing so thats what I do. I have never had an issue. My Expedition had 200,000 on it when I traded it. My F-150 currently has 82,000 on it with no issues. My previous Ranger had 300,000 on it when I sold it. It is still running around town 9 years later.

 

Okay, so I finally did it. I had my '06 transmission flushed at my dealer. Wasn't cheap either ($169.99 + tax and disposal fee). Truck had service completed at 30,800 miles.

So far, it seems to shift smoother, not a great deal but better. Doesn't even have 100 miles on since the service was completed last Friday (6/4/10), so no long term results. But I'll post back with my experience.

 

I also added the Summit Racing external spin-on filter setup on my 2008. I did the flush when I installed it at 42,000 miles and will change out the spin-on filter at 62,000 miles coming up this month. I don't have enough posts to add my photos of the install, but if you are interested, pm and I send them to you.

Pap

 

I recently purchased the fluid exchanger that I had been researching. Received it last week and I performed the flush over the weekend on my 02 Escape. I am extremely pleased with it. Very short learning curve performed on my Kubota tractor, first. I have been driving the Escape since the flush and I have no issues at 250 miles. I can take the used fluids to the recycle center (no fee). Next on the list of vehicles will be my daughter's Honda and then onto my F150. After I do the Escort, this tool will have paid for itself at the $170 quoted by V8EXPLR. One more after that will pay for the fluids used and I know that each vehicle received the fluids I wanted, and not what was currently in the barrel at the service center.

 

I have never had my vehicles flushed with chemicals.Chemicals being the word.On older vehicles with higher miles they tend to wash away the material that causes your plates to have friction.
If your going to do a drain and fill,that's fine but only gets 3-5 quarts of ATF out at a time.You also should do it more often.
Replace all the fluid(exchanged) without the harmful chemicals....

 

It's kinda funny how this question comes back every now and again.

To satisfy my curiosity, I called three different Ford dealers, a transmission shop and my local mechanic with this very question.

The unanimous answer was to flush. The draining method is considered old school. Flushing cleans the filter / screen while changing 99.9% of the fluid in the pan and T-converter. Then the machine replaces the exact amount of fluid that was removed for the system. Never an over / under fill, no guess work and best of all, the practice is completely endorsed by Ford Motor Company as the most up to date method of changing transmission fluid.

At 35K miles, I has my '04 Expy flushed at the dealer, $149.95. I now have 74K on the truck and the transmission fluid looks and smells like brand new. I'll have it done again soon and will continue this practice.

 

I do the same thing...If it is good enough for Ford, It is good enough for me!

 

same here for my truck

 

I prefer the flush in my shop because it is alot easier, just have to remove one cooler line at the top of the radiator, no lift, no pan bolts, no mess, push one button and its done. I also make more money doing the flush verses the pan drop.

Regardless of what you read -"90% of automatic transmission failures are due to overheating and fluid contamination." I would say that 95% of all transmissions that come into my shop that I end up rebuilding are there due to a broken part or a worn case or valve body, and it wouldn't of mattered if they had flushed that transmission once a week it still would have failed.

Changing the fluid will help shift feel and converter performance so I do recommend changing it but it wont prevent the known "time bombs" I see every day. My tear down table most of the time is covered with good red new looking fluid that came out of a transmission with broken parts.

Also flushing a transmission will not flush or clean the filter, it cant, there is no way to back flush. Today's filters are so big that if you have one that is restricted or clogged you have a bigger problem with the transmission, because the only thing the filter is going to collect is transmission pieces.

I have changed the transmission fluid twice in my own truck, once at 12k when the overdrive sprag failed and it had to be rebuilt and again at 55k when the entire overdrive section failed and it had to be rebuilt again.

 

When you say changed here are you meaning that it was change as part of the work accomplished on the OD or that you had OD problems after the fluid change. Considering the thread topic I would like to be clear as to what you mean. tks

 

Sorry, I mean that the fluid was changed as part of the rebuilds not as preventive maintenance.

 

If you aren't going to install a cooler line filter, an early fluid change or fluid exchange is good. That's the most important change because most of the contamination in an automatic is either built in from the manufacturing process or comes from break-in. Unless you really work the truck and get the fluid hot enough to increase the oxidation effects, the main reason you are changing is to get rid of contaminants. THe OE Ford Mercon V is fine stuff and holds up to heat. Rather than repeat all this again, read this:

Automatic Transmission and Power Steering Filters - Four Wheeler Magazine

I don't like the word "flush." There are machines that "backflush" the trans and line and they cause no end of harm. Most machines, and the DIY method of using a bucket, are really better called a "fluid exchange." As was noted by a previous poster, dropping the pan to replace the suction filter is especially important that first time. Use the factory OE suction filter or one made by Filtran for the best results. They are an 80 micron filter. Some of the cheap parts store replacements are not as efficient.

 

Good article Jim.