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Ok Im at a crossroads. Hopefully the incredible advise on this board can help. I have a 2006 (113K) that has what seems to be the generic "cold running" issues. It doesnt seem to have throttle and feels like it has a miss until it is warmed up (2-3 miles) then it runs great and has full turbo boost with no problems on the hoses or intercooler. I have checked the egr and it is really clean, moves freely and is "closed" at rest and no gunk and hardly any exhaust contamination and absolutely bone dry. There are no codes and no CEL. I have checked the FIMC and it has 48.5V and even maintains that through the cycle test and cranking test. I have replaced the fuel filters (with OEM) the others (OEM also) were clean and not a drop of water came out of the drain. I had ford run the check and do the latest reflash (they did this February 5th) however they said I needed 2 injectors #2 and #5 (dont know how they determined that with no codes). Right now I am doing some additional maintenance degas bottle (showing cracks and a couple of wet spots) and the CCV modification and a coolant filter. While that is out I have the air tube off and cleaning the hoses and tube of oil residue. Since I have a lot of things out of the way, is there anything else that is recommended to to do as preventative maintenance or precautionary, with some disassembly already done it would save time? I have read a lot about changing things on here just because they are known to be problematic so now is the time while I have it out of service. Also anyone guide me on the "injectors" should I replace the two? Thanks for all the great info here.
Do you have coolant temp and oil temp monitoring capabilities? If your oil cooler is already beginning the failure process, this would be a good time to replace it.
I have kept close eye on the two gauges and once at operating temp, they are almost in total synch. I am always nervous of that so i make certain. Hopefully since the cooling system is really clean it isnt on the horizon to be plugged.
thanks
I have an AE with Ford bundle that I used, with no codes. It idles fine after start up cold and when warm also the idle is perfect and staring is perfect. It just doesnt want to get out of its own way when cold. At about 2K RPM when cold it will shudder and shake and wont shift gears, but as it warms that goes away. It happens anytime it sits and the coolant cools. Even if I went out at lunch if I was to leave work, it would have the same symptoms.
I have an AE with Ford bundle that I used, with no codes. It idles fine after start up cold and when warm also the idle is perfect and staring is perfect. It just doesnt want to get out of its own way when cold. At about 2K RPM when cold it will shudder and shake and wont shift gears, but as it warms that goes away. It happens anytime it sits and the coolant cools. Even if I went out at lunch if I was to leave work, it would have the same symptoms.
If you have the 8.1 software in the actuation menu you should be able to turn on/off each injector. Try the two that they say are hinky and then do the rest of them. Do them one at a time though. Look for any changes after you turn each one off. I haven't played with the graphing yet on this, but see if you can graph all 8 and look for any peaks or valleys that seem out of place. That should tell you that there is over and/or under-fueling going on as well.
Mine had the same symptoms, Ford replaced FICM and did a reflash. Problem solved. Not and expert here just speaking from personal experience, some of the real experts here might comment on this but could the FICM test ok but when running a bad connection rear it's ugly head? Also could the reflash actualy have not been done, not on purpose I'm sure just thinking out loud.
Not and expert here just speaking from personal experience, some of the real experts here might comment on this but could the FICM test ok but when running a bad connection rear it's ugly head?
Anything is possible with electrical "issues". I had a intermittent fuel pump issue that turned out to be a short in the wiring. Wouldn't happen all the time, but every so often it would rear it's ugly head.
Originally Posted by teppler
Also could the reflash actualy have not been done, not on purpose I'm sure just thinking out loud.
It's possible that the flash didn't take or the latest flash that they have isn't the latest flash that everyone is talking about. It depends on when they update their programming. I don't think it's automatic, I think the individual dealership has to initiate the update process.