239 V8 OHV question.....

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Feb 26, 2010 | 10:12 AM

fastphil

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Mountain Pass

Joined: Feb 2010

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From: Kentucky

239 V8 OHV question.....

I have a '54 239 V8 EBU motor that had been sitting in a garage for years. The trouble is the garage had holes in the ceiling and water got into the cylinder walls. Everything else is ok in the motor, except the pistons and cylinder walls. The walls are not pitted, but have a little surface rust on them at this time. I have everything off the motor on the top side, including the heads, still have crank, etc., on the bottom side. My question is what should I do to get the pistons broke loose and get it ready to be dipped? Thanks in advance.

Feb 26, 2010 | 10:20 AM

fixnair

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From: Sapulpa OK

Let each cylinder soak in PB Blaster, ATF & Acetone mixed, diesel fuel, almost any kind of solvent. Let it soak for a few days and work the c rank back and forth 'till it breaks loose.
I don't know what you mean by "dipped" but if you are going to hot tank it you will have to tear it down completely. Hot tank will do nothing to rust. Also hot tank will dissolve aluminum and pot metal.

Feb 26, 2010 | 12:51 PM

fastphil

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Feb 2010

Posts: 180

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From: Kentucky

Yeah...that's what I was talking about...hot tanking it...I was just wanting to get everything out first and was wondering the best way to get it unlocked first. I've tried PB Blaster, Deep Creep, ATF and Acetone, Power steering fluid and Acetone....but I may need to just keep letting it soak and eventually it will break. Would it hurt to take a wooden block and tap on the piston while someone put a little pressure on the crank?
By the way, thanks for the response fixnair.

Feb 26, 2010 | 01:17 PM

fixnair

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From: Sapulpa OK

If they are all locked then pushing on one piston wll do little to unstick the others. My 239 was stuck when I bought it and what I did was to undo the easiest rod and using a wooden block and hammer I punched that one piston out. Then I progressed to the next hardest piston annd I eventually got to the point where I could turn it over to line the remaining pistons. Lots of hard dirty work.

You are quite welcome for my response. Afterall that s what this site is all about.

Feb 26, 2010 | 02:02 PM

fastphil

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Feb 2010

Posts: 180

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From: Kentucky

Ok...if all else fails, I will try that method, fixnair. Yeah...this site is great. I just registered yesterday and have had nothing but help from you guys since...so thanks goes not only to you, but to all that have helped me so far!!!

Feb 26, 2010 | 07:47 PM

jim collins

Cargo Master

Joined: Apr 2009

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From: South west Idaho

I would use a ridge reamer to try and remove some of the ridge at the top of the cylinders before driving the pistons out . It is possible to damage the pistons if not. Even if you plan to replace the pistons ,that ridge in there will make it harder to remove the pistons. Good luck.

Feb 26, 2010 | 09:05 PM

ALBUQ F-1

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jul 2004

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From: NM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fixnair

...Also hot tank will dissolve aluminum and pot metal.

Almost all hot tanks nowadays are hot caustic, buffered to avoid damage to aluminum. It will damage soft bearing material like cam bearings, and they usually don't put pistons in because they bounce around too much.