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Original paint as far as I can tell. The silver paint that is on all the horizontal surfaces, like the hood and tops of fenders and just under the windows as you noted are totally faded. The clear coat is flaky and paint all worn down,only horizontal surfaces, I put a white hood I picked up at the pick n pull for $25 and put it on because it looked so bad. The old hood is perfect body wise but paint is gone. The vertical surfaces as you can see look great. Looked good the day I got her but I spent a hour with some fiberglass polishing compound I have for my boat and it shined up nice.
As far as smog 1996 and older diesels have no smog check, no inspection whatsoever. You could buy a diesel put in a gas motor and keep titled as a diesel (don't know why you would) and never have to smog it. I'm not 100% sure what smog check you have to do for 98' and newer but someone said some years just need a visual inspection then after 200?, they stick a sniffer up the tail pipe in addition to the visual inspection.
Original paint as far as I can tell. The silver paint that is on all the horizontal surfaces, like the hood and tops of fenders and just under the windows as you noted are totally faded. The clear coat is flaky and paint all worn down,only horizontal surfaces, I put a white hood I picked up at the pick n pull for $25 and put it on because it looked so bad. The old hood is perfect body wise but paint is gone. The vertical surfaces as you can see look great. Looked good the day I got her but I spent a hour with some fiberglass polishing compound I have for my boat and it shined up nice.
As far as smog 1996 and older diesels have no smog check, no inspection whatsoever. You could buy a diesel put in a gas motor and keep titled as a diesel (don't know why you would) and never have to smog it. I'm not 100% sure what smog check you have to do for 98' and newer but someone said some years just need a visual inspection then after 200?, they stick a sniffer up the tail pipe in addition to the visual inspection.
THANK YOU for the California Emissions information!
Now I know that I can go back to California to visit or move there again and not be harassed or pulled over for smog check or inspection! I am familiar with most areas of California and have lived in a number of locations there at one time or another from South to North. The last time was in a remote area of Trinity County at the edge of the Trinity Alps Wilderness Area. Left in 1998 and I want to go back to visit some friends and I might chose to move to California again (in spite of the problems the state has). I like the warmer drier climate.
I wish I was close enough to buy your old hood. Mine is slightly bent with a dent and I must replace it before a nice paint job. I think they are much more expensive from U-Pull-it wrecking yards in the greater Seattle area but I'll find one when the time comes and I have the money.
I havent seen one of those police traffic breaks where they check out the car for saftey violations and spot smog check in some time. I suppose if you swapped out the diesel for a gas motor you could get busted.
Most of the pick-n-pulls in SoCal have been bought out by LKQ. They are Decent and you can go online and search yards for car/trucks you are interested in, you dont know what parts are gone but at least you have a idea of how many fords or chev or ?? are there. Some of the yards even post the date it came into the yard and some even color. I go on 50% off days but man is it crowded. I went Labor day weekend sale and they had 6 windows open to pay with 30+ people waiting in each line. I hid the stuff I pulled and went back early the next morning, there was a line of about 8 to pay and get in but got my stuff and went to the window to pay with only one guy ahead of me, When I left the line to get in was 20+ deep!
found a 86 f250 with 4 spd manual, 2x4, red, looks mint inside and very clean in the photos outside. guy drives it daily and id like to go look at it. add states it has newish tires, converted to an electric fuel pump, new starter and solenoid. also states new injection pump and injectors. asking price is $2000 obo. what do you all think?
went and test drove and looked at the 86 f250 today, drove with a good amount of play in the steering, i suppose that's pretty normal? shifted real well and could also down shift pretty well too. clutch seem to grab about half way. said he would take $1500 for the truck. sins its a 2x4, are there ball joints up front? it appeared to be oily on the passenger side of the motor and i am hoping thats why the starter had oil all over it. he also had rubber hosing around all the hard lines that went to each injector, he stated that vibration can cause the lines to crack and brake, also that the OEM rubber spacers are hard to find. are the hard injector lines really a problem?
the tachometer didnt work, are those simple fixes? the milaege on the truck is unknown and it read like 20k right now, so hes guessing its over 200k miles on the truck.
I thought I had participated, previously, in this thread. I think I gave $1,850 to $2k for mine, before all the work. I wouldn't take less than $7k for it.
found a 86 f250 with 4 spd manual, 2x4, red, looks mint inside and very clean in the photos outside. guy drives it daily and id like to go look at it. add states it has newish tires, converted to an electric fuel pump, new starter and solenoid. also states new injection pump and injectors. asking price is $2000 obo. what do you all think?
I'm not sure, let me see the add, lol....
Originally Posted by 2002f2507.3LPS
went and test drove and looked at the 86 f250 today, drove with a good amount of play in the steering, i suppose that's pretty normal? shifted real well and could also down shift pretty well too. clutch seem to grab about half way. said he would take $1500 for the truck. sins its a 2x4, are there ball joints up front? it appeared to be oily on the passenger side of the motor and i am hoping thats why the starter had oil all over it. he also had rubber hosing around all the hard lines that went to each injector, he stated that vibration can cause the lines to crack and brake, also that the OEM rubber spacers are hard to find. are the hard injector lines really a problem?
the tachometer didnt work, are those simple fixes? the milaege on the truck is unknown and it read like 20k right now, so hes guessing its over 200k miles on the truck.
Probably general valve cover leakage. I would think you have king pins and not ball joints. You can get the aftermarket injector line clamps online. I guess the next best thing is the hose trick with a clamp. One of my lines broke, due to a missing clamp, on a trip away from home - you need those lines properly clamped. All-in-all, I'd have to see the add, lol - just kidding.
My 86 has king pins. Had really Sloppy steering when I got it. Most of mine was tie rod ends and steering gear adjustment. You should check the king pins for slop. If you get it make sure all the zerks take grease, and grease them often.
I took my 87 in yesterday for an (Free alignment check before actual alignment) at Les Schwab Tire. I think it is $39.00 for the alignment. If they install parts they must use their own parts source at whatever they charge for parts plus the extra labor.
The technician referred to the 'king pins' as 'ball joints' A long time mechanic friend friend couldn't believe it didn't have king pins so he looked and said 'They are sort of like King pins and sort of like Ball joints. Whatever; they were tight but the tie rod ends were shot!!!
The steering link grease boot was broken and he recommended replacing that too. I'll be replacing those parts myself before taking it back in.
I watched the check-up and I had no idea they were that bad!! I couldn't tell at home without lifting the whole front end. On the ground they seemed tight and looked good. From driving around I would not have known other than the steering wheel is about 5 degrees off center - I thought from a sloppy install of tie-rod ends by a previous owner because they did look very good (but it is a California truck) so I wanted an alignment anyway. The tech told me that there is an adjustment for correcting the steering wheel (huh?). So the vehicle mentioned by the original poster might be in considerably worse condition and require more parts than mine.
As the OP probably knows, trucks this old are going to take some money to get all fixed up. How much depends upon how far you want to take it.
Selling mine it's 87 4x4 4speed with a banks turbo 6.9 has 7.3 pump, injectors, new injector lines glow plugs and module new fuel filter and fuel tank selector switch 1 new battery new radiator. Has HID light bulbs. Tinted windows cruise control, A/C but needs freon, kenwood MP3 player. Has new MOOG steering component. Truck has 83,375 original miles rolling on 18x10 FUEL wheels rolling on 33s
aslo have a camper top in good condition to go with it.
asking 6,500$
I'm curious who is offering HID housings for those trucks? Particularly long enough that the cheap plastic has yellowed so bad. Regardless, this thread is about market prices... How much did you pay for it? And let us know how much you sell it for when that time comes.
09-10-2015, 09:42 PM
