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I had a similar problem with my 302. First look at the timing sequence that is on the hood of the truck. It turns out the haynes manual was not correct for my truck. I had my valve covers off so it was easy for me to find top dead center on #1. I noticed that when I dropped in the distributor that ford put a cut on the distributer base and on the intake manifold to help line up the distributer. As mention you really need to pull the SPOUT. Now with the SPOUT out and the distributor loose (just tight enough not to move easy) start the motor. Rotate the distributor back and forth until it runs best. Now look at the distributor, does the wiring look stretched? Is the flat side base on Distributor facing the front. If the answer is yes then you are off 1 tooth and will need to remove the distributor move back counter clockwise. Try this.
Edited: Did you replace your timing chain? My truck would not time due to the stretched chain.
i may have it wrong. let me do this again and you tell me if i'am doing this right. we put the #1 piston on compression stroke (passenger side front piston) we set the dist./rotor pointing to number one. would not start,even moving dist. back and forth. we bump it around to tdc and rotor on number one then take dist. out and flip to number 5 put it back and it fires up. this to me don't sound right, but it runs there. it will run all day at idle but when you cut it off or put it in gear it dies and will not start back up.
let me back up and say that this truck will start up fine when ice cold. that's what sparked this problem it left us stranded and we had it towed home when this thing warms up it will not run. it will idle all day long but when you put it in gear or cut it off you can forget starting it for a day or two then it will fire right back up. even after all the repairs/replaced parts it does the same thing.
Remove the spout while moving the distributer back on forth to check the timing. The electronic ignition is really good at what it does as long as you on the correct timing.
Oh yeah one more thing. While you are turning the motor by hand, are you checking to see if the timing mark is going to 10 degrees BTC just as the intake valve starts to open? I found that I was rotating the motor backwards - kind of hard to set timing that way.....
Edit: You should think about changing the timing chain. I missed that you started this after the truck left you stranded after it heated up. I'm no expert but mine chain really need to be replaced, stretch spaggetti comes to mind.
I did not see in any of your post where you checked the codes. When you first got it back home the first thing you should have done was pull the code before you started replacing anything or moving the distributor. You may have installed bad parts in place of the old good ones. I have heard a lot of the distributors come with bad PIP sensors.
Let it warm up at idle then turn it off an run the KOEO self-test and also see if you have anything in CM.
Pulled codes today and it showed two things it was the fuel pump which i don't know why we just put it in and the other one was the coolent temp sensor showing 470 degree when it was 43 outside tonight. do you think it could just be the sensor or do you think the computer is bad. the guy that tested had the snap on digital tester and he said he would lean toward the computer. just wondering what anybody else thinks
Check to see if your injectors are firing and the fuel pump comes on for one second and quits when you turn on the key.
If you have spark or you would not be using the timing light and the injectors are firing and also the fuel pump is running for one second then the computer is more than likely OK.
If the fuel pump is not coming on at all or runs all the time the key is on and the injectors are not firing and the computer has a good ground at the battery and power to it then I would say the computer is bad.