1985 Mud Toy Problem
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1985 Mud Toy Problem
I just bought a 1985 Ford F-150 with the 4.9L inline 6 cylinder. I replaced the alternator the battery the plugs plug wires distributor cap and rotor. After I got finished with this I tried to start the truck and it turned over kind of slow and strange. I kept trying to start it and then it cleared up and turned over cleanly but when i released the ignition the engine kept cranking even when I turned the ignition off. Anybody have any ideas.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I wish I had taken pix, I opened one of those things up once just to see
inside... The electrical contacts "weld" together. It's an electrically-operated,
magnetically-actuated coil with a metal plate about the size of a US quarter
dollar that, when energized, connects the two larger poles - those with the
battery and starter connections - together. That metal plate (or contact) gets
"welded" to the battery/starter contacts. If this is your problem, the fix is a
new solenoid; you might bang on it with a wrench or hammer to try and un-stick
it when it happens. The Chinese variants have a BAD reputation around here,
most guys suggest getting one from a Ford dealer (around $30).
Franklin2 suggested pulling the #5 wire off of the solenoid when the starter
continues to turn with the key not in the START position. If the starter
continues to turn with that #5 wire disconnected, the problem is a sticking
solenoid. If the starter disengages upon removal of that wire, the problem is
elsewhere - most likely column-mounted ignition switch or the wiring
between the two.
inside... The electrical contacts "weld" together. It's an electrically-operated,
magnetically-actuated coil with a metal plate about the size of a US quarter
dollar that, when energized, connects the two larger poles - those with the
battery and starter connections - together. That metal plate (or contact) gets
"welded" to the battery/starter contacts. If this is your problem, the fix is a
new solenoid; you might bang on it with a wrench or hammer to try and un-stick
it when it happens. The Chinese variants have a BAD reputation around here,
most guys suggest getting one from a Ford dealer (around $30).
Franklin2 suggested pulling the #5 wire off of the solenoid when the starter
continues to turn with the key not in the START position. If the starter
continues to turn with that #5 wire disconnected, the problem is a sticking
solenoid. If the starter disengages upon removal of that wire, the problem is
elsewhere - most likely column-mounted ignition switch or the wiring
between the two.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2010
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alright well i tried the number five wire and it still does it. I replaced the starter solenoid on the fender so do i need to replace the relay on the starter or what I'm so lost. The retarded part is it acts like the timing is off because it will turn over real slow and then it will hang up and turn over with the key off so i have to disconnect the battery
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 96
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From: Laramie Wyoming
It sounds to me like a bad solenoid, because, as anyone who has welded knows, when 2 peices of metal weld together, it's not exactly a clean fusion. The slow to crank sounds like it's a bunch of gunk buildup from the arcing, and obviously, it's welding itself together.
So yeah, I'd say new solenoid, and not the chinease unit.
So yeah, I'd say new solenoid, and not the chinease unit.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Chinese units are junk.Plain and simple.I've only heard of a few people who've had success with them.I went through two on my truck because I thought the original solenoid had gone out,but the chinese solenoid always crapped out within a week,and the original Motorcraft solenoid always ended up being fine.From now on i'm goin to Ford for all my solenoid needs.
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