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Damaged hitch ?

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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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Damaged hitch ?

Does anyone (other than me) here think that this hitch is damanged from cutting for the lock in the flange around the ball ? This hitch is on a 24ft 8000lb gvw Haulmark car hauler.

 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 07:05 AM
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Yes, the structure of the hitch has been compromised. And depending on how hot the metal got (cutting torch) the metal could have lost it's temper. I wouldn't drag 8k pounds with it now.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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Thanks for the second opinion... anyone else ?
 

Last edited by 4X4X4RV; Feb 24, 2010 at 11:38 AM. Reason: adding to post
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 12:48 PM
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I would not haul a car on that either. That looks like a phenomenally stupid move.

I think I'm going to save that pic and add it to my folder of dumb things people do.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 01:43 PM
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I wouldn't use it. You can get a new one welded on for a reasonable cost though.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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I welded one on my old trailer because the P.O. really skimped on the welds and there were several cracks where the ball rides.

I got this one. Works great and is very secure. It's rated at 12,500lbs, though the site doesn't say so...
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 06:22 PM
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Those two notches automatically creates stress risers on an area of the hitch that is under all sorts of stress, twisting, pounding in all directions, tension, compression. New cracks start in stress risers.

If I wanted to seriously weaken a metal part for testing purposes, this is one of the biggies that I would do, put a notch in it.

It has been years and years since I finished up my enjuneering degree, but I think they actually had a name for this, A Notch Test.

Not good. I would have that hitch replaced by a reputable trailer mechanic before I took any road trips.

Jim Henderson

BTW, there are nice hitch locks available that slide over the flat flange area and then screw up into the ball socket. They do not require any cutting or changes to the hitch. I think the brand name is ACCO and are available at lock smiths and RV suppliers. I think the two I use cost me something like $30-$40 each back in the late 90s.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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Those notches defeat the purpose of the flange. I often tell customers just because something works doesn't mean it was done correctly, particularly when it comes to safety. On my dealers' lots, we insist anyone who comes to tow be set up correctly and we would not allow a trailer to leave the lot with damage like this. May cost us a few bucks, but we sleep well at night.

Steve
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jim henderson
Those two notches automatically creates stress risers on an area of the hitch that is under all sorts of stress, twisting, pounding in all directions, tension, compression. New cracks start in stress risers.

If I wanted to seriously weaken a metal part for testing purposes, this is one of the biggies that I would do, put a notch in it.

It has been years and years since I finished up my enjuneering degree, but I think they actually had a name for this, A Notch Test.

Not good. I would have that hitch replaced by a reputable trailer mechanic before I took any road trips.

Jim Henderson

BTW, there are nice hitch locks available that slide over the flat flange area and then screw up into the ball socket. They do not require any cutting or changes to the hitch. I think the brand name is ACCO and are available at lock smiths and RV suppliers. I think the two I use cost me something like $30-$40 each back in the late 90s.

Jim,

I was going to throw my two cents in, being a metalurgist by trade, but you pretty much summed it up with stress risers.

One of the earlier posts talked about removing the temper. I do not believe that these hitches are heat treated, so heating it would actually not remove the temper, it would actually anneal the hitch causing it to be softer and then bend or twist easier. I wonder what grade of steel they are mad of?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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The coupler I put on my trailer behaved like regular HSS/OSS, it wasn't high quality stuff but I didn't hit any pockets of garbage in the metal either. I also remember it didn't spatter that much either, not anywhere near as much as the upper rails I put on the trailer.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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I would not use that either. why would someone do that?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by senix
I would not use that either. why would someone do that?
It was cut to put the hitch lock on ( not my trailer or doing), unfortunatly I used the trailer once in a bind to haul a couple of items in the rain but it wont be back on my truck again until it fixed.
I came here for a little information so when I go to the party concerned / owners I can have the input here along with my own to correct a bad problem.
Thanks Guys
 

Last edited by 4X4X4RV; Feb 24, 2010 at 09:47 PM. Reason: correct spelling
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 01:18 AM
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wtf kind of hitch lock is that?

most include a ball and a U-bar that prohibit the lock from being slid off...

that looks like a plate and a u-bolt...
 
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:22 AM
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I suppose you could plate weld on that to give it somemore strength, but really think I would rather replace it due to the reduced strength and intergrity.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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New hitch on tongue is only real fix. I had to cut off damaged hitch once as well. Not easy unless you have local welder. That lock is the 20.00 dollar special. A good hitch lock that will work is 75.00.
 
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