Hey fellas,
Does anyone know if the timing of the DB2 can be messed with from fuel pressure? To recap, i have the gasser intank pump that spits a lot of fuel. When i let all of the pressure off or unplug the fuel pump it smooths out like a hum and sounds a lot better. It has been "relieved" of its pressure for a few weeks now and is getting back to being loud and rattling. To achieve the rattle free smooth sound i took a 1/4 inch line and put a brass t in the return line that goes between the two last injectors and under the cdr/GPC. I wonder if my return system is getting stopped up by the additional pressure heading into that line. It seems strange that it would be find for awhile and now getting louder. It smooths out and sounds better after driving for awhile which leads me to believe that it is relieving its own pressure. I found out that i had vacuum in the tank because in an effort to plug the PO's mistakes i stopped up a line that i thought was the rear tank supply. Turns out it was the vent for the tanks. I got brave and blew into the tube only to find out that it is filled with fluid. Probably water or similar. I am going to rip out all of that old line and save it for later if it is good.

Essentially with either pressure or vacuum could the timing be affected? I was reading through some specs of the DB2 and it stated that it....

"Fuel enters the pump inlet under lift pump pressure from the fuel filter, where a vane type transfer pump further pressurizes it. From the transfer pump, the fuel is then routed to three separate places within the pump"

If mine is or was entering the DB2 at higher rates and then was pressurized further, would it be higher than the DB2 was supposed to have? Now that i have the pressure released could the timing be messed up? It rattles like a stroke and unplugging the fuel pump makes no difference anymore. Could it be something mechanical with the engine? valves? i am a bit confused.

On a side note, i am tearing down the old engine and it makes for a lot of informative looks into what i wonder about sometimes and where oil can come from. I am finding that the valley pan seal may be leaking behind my ip gear housing because the plug in the block has a small pool of oil in it. How i would go about simply fixing that i dont know. haha.

 

also with this subject, the "vent wire assembly" is on my list. Apparently you can adjust the size of it. Wonder how hard it would be to replace?

Here is the info on the vent wire.

Vent Wire Assembly. The vent wire assembly controls the amount of fuel returned to the fuel tank from the injection pump, and is located in a short passageway behind the metering valve bore.
Excess fuel from the transfer pump flows past the vent wire, carrying any air which might have entered the transfer pump.
After the excess fuel passes through the vent assembly, it goes to the governor compartment and then back the pump through the return line.
The vent wire’s size controls the amount of fuel that enters the return line. So if the amount of return fuel doesn’t meet specification, the vent wire can be swapped for one of a different size.

 

To much pressure will mess with the pump timing and is not good for it. It will not put to much pressure to the injectors the IP puts around 2000 pounds to the injectors. did you install a regulator or how did you relive the pressure.

 

To achieve the rattle free smooth sound i took a 1/4 inch line and went from the main feed to a brass t in the return line that goes between the two last injectors and under the cdr/GPC. I wonder if my return system is getting stopped up by the additional pressure heading into that line. meaning if i put overflow into that line i wonder if the fuel from the return lines themselves can let fuel go. I may try replacing that line and then sending the T back farther down the line on the frame rail. I just wonder if i relieved all the pressure that now the timing is messed up or the IP is toast?

There is no smoke but a thin haze climbing hills at full throttle. Zero around town and small puffs at start up. It doesnt seem to make sense but like i said in the first post, could this be mechanical like the valves or similar. The oil in it isnt but 1000 or so miles old and i replaced it Dec 28th.

 

I doubt if it is mechanical, I am thinking you are needing a regulator and return system returning the fuel with out going thru the motor return. That system is designed to have too much fuel and a steady return with 6 to 8 pounds of pressure. I don't what kind of volume your pump is putting out but it is probably in the 60 pound range which is around 8 to 10 times to much. PM kenobuck and see how he set his up, he has bisically the same pump.

 

yeah definitely, i think i was just being hopeful that it wouldnt be the hundred dollar regulator. Pricey little *****!!

 

Probably but I have never priced one. I personally would pull the pump and put a hose so that it will reach the bottom of the tank and either put an electric pump on the frame or a mechanical pump on the motor, but for a different reason. When an intank pump goes out it is always with a full tank of fuel and it is a royal pain to pull the tank on the side of the road. lol

 

i am positive that the fuel can come through the pump when it is off. I went about 35 miles before it died and when i plugged it back in, i was off in seconds. Un plugged it again and i was good for 41 miles. now that is about two to three gallons of fuel. I think it would be good for awhile longer if i hadnt plugged up the vent. I was looking at the mister gasket pump and i can put it right where the fuel filter from the gasser will come out. Still havent gotten around to that haha.

 

Okay so I relieved the pressure with the return system prior to the engine. It sounds the same but if I plug it up, I get the loud idle like it used to be.....way louder than before. But I am still getting a loud clack sound even with all the pressure off. I am not due for an oil change but could the oil be ready for a change? Is it one of my new injectors not seated right? Is it the ip not able to keep up with the new injectors? Could itbe the timing? If I adjust the ip's timing, which way should I go? Advance or retard? Any help would be great!!!!

 

Anything over about 9psi will cause the IP to advance a bit. I had 13psi pumps in my Chevy tanks and I just removed them so they didn't cause any problems. Hardest part was pulling the tanks to get rid of htem.

 

Well I can get to the pump without dropping the tank but what could I put in there instead? Is there a plate with Ports so I can wire up the mr gasket and have it seal off!

 

The Chevy ones were in line, near the bottom of the tank. I removed them and replaced them with sections of fuel line and added sock type filters on the bottoms. I haven't seen the Ford gasser style, so I don't know what you'd need to do.

 

aahh so on the other side of the plate where the two tubes go in will either be the pump unit itself or tubes to the bottom where the pumps may be. hmmmm i will pull it this weekend and take some pics. Not sure what to expect but i just wish i could figure out why the noise. I know for a fact that i dont have too much pressure, when i first started it, the return line i installed didnt let the fuel hit the filter header so little by little i clamped it down till it passed it then let the electric pump cycle for about five minutes priming everything, the noise only changes if i shut it all the way off and it get louder. It could be an exhaust sound but i dont know where it is coming from, it sounds like the back of the engine drivers side but it isnt a tic tic tic, it is more of a valve chatter sound, i am not sure though, i dont know what these engines valve chatter sounds like. I am really starting to lean towards the timing or IP. Could a loose or unseated injector make that kind of noise?

 

Okay so, i will keep it small, haha.

If my timing is off and it sounds like a psd with the loud rattle, which way would i or should i go with the IP timing? advance or retard it? i believe to the passenger side is retarding the timing and advance to the driver side.

 

drivers side is retarding it.