F-3 Rear Spring Question
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
F-3 Rear Spring Question
Since my old F-3 has 13 leaves in the rear springs on each side, I was thinking about just replacing them with F-1 springs until I found out that F-2 & F-3 rear springs are 2 1/4 inches wide instead of 2 inches like the F-1. So, in order to use F-1 springs, I'd have to change the spring hangers as well as the shackles. Does that sound right? Before I go to all that trouble, I may prefer to go back my original plan of using the F-3 springs with about half the leaves removed. Also, are there spring perches available in 2 1/4 width that I can purchase to mount my rear end? I've seen 2 inch and 2 1/2 inch perches, but not 2 1/4. Will I have to make my own perches, or will one of those work? What have you other guys with F2s or F3s done about this? Any comments welcome...
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
F-3 Rear Spring Question
I don't know about how to swap out the springs, but I would be interested in any suggestions. I know with my 1952 F-3, I have the 13 leaves, but on top of that I have an additional 2 helper spring setup... I think my rear weight capacity is something like 2 and a half tons, a bit more than what I need. What I had looked at was when I put in a newer dana 60 rear, that I might take the springs and shackles from the same donor truck and fit them to my frame. I'm assuming that a newer 3/4 ton spring setup should ride a bit nicer than the original, and still allow me to still use the truck to haul.
Jon
Jon
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
F-3 Rear Spring Question
Jon,
I guess if you're going to take springs and shackles from a donor truck, you would be okay. That will still involve removing your old shackles and probably welding on the ones from the donor truck. I was hoping for a much easier route by just replacing the springs. I really didn't want to get into removing the old spring hangers and shackles just to replace them with F-1 mounts and shackles a quarter inch narrower. Besides, those shackles and spring hangers don't come cheap.
I guess if you're going to take springs and shackles from a donor truck, you would be okay. That will still involve removing your old shackles and probably welding on the ones from the donor truck. I was hoping for a much easier route by just replacing the springs. I really didn't want to get into removing the old spring hangers and shackles just to replace them with F-1 mounts and shackles a quarter inch narrower. Besides, those shackles and spring hangers don't come cheap.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 22
From: Oxford, Indiana
F-3 Rear Spring Question
That's a big negatory. F-1's had a completely different shackle and perch arrangement. You would have to swap out the entire assembly. It would be much simpler and likely cheaper in the long run to buy a rear suspension kit. Several vendors sell kits that include the perches, shackles, springs, axle pads and all the hardware for around $400. That's a good chunk of change, but you'll have half that tied up in new bushings and pins plus untold hours of restoration labor to make those crusty 50-year-old leaves useful again. Check with Sacramento Vintage Ford.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
F-3 Rear Spring Question
Rage,
I appreciate the info, but 400 bucks for a rear end kit is out of the question for this old truck. This truck WILL be built for less than 5 grand! That's my goal and I'm stickin' to it! I checked out the parts for new spring and hanger bushings, tie bolts, and poly spring liner in the Sacramento catalog and I figure I can remove half the leaves and rebuild the crusty old springs for a maximum of $150 and that's assuming I need all those parts. I know I'll have hours of "fun" restoring the old springs, but it's work I look forward to. Also, I haven't given up the idea of using the New Yorker springs. I know that would require some fabrication on hangers and shackles, but haven't really looked that far into it yet to see how feasible that would be. If I can somehow use the Chrysler springs, spring hangers, and shackles, I could save money there also.
I appreciate the info, but 400 bucks for a rear end kit is out of the question for this old truck. This truck WILL be built for less than 5 grand! That's my goal and I'm stickin' to it! I checked out the parts for new spring and hanger bushings, tie bolts, and poly spring liner in the Sacramento catalog and I figure I can remove half the leaves and rebuild the crusty old springs for a maximum of $150 and that's assuming I need all those parts. I know I'll have hours of "fun" restoring the old springs, but it's work I look forward to. Also, I haven't given up the idea of using the New Yorker springs. I know that would require some fabrication on hangers and shackles, but haven't really looked that far into it yet to see how feasible that would be. If I can somehow use the Chrysler springs, spring hangers, and shackles, I could save money there also.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,682
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From: Saskatoon SK Canada
F-3 Rear Spring Question
The 1/2 tons springs are also shorter too.
This is my fist post in the new system.
This is my fist post in the new system.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
F-3 Rear Spring Question
Does anyone know if I can use 2 or 2 1/2 inch spring pads with 2 1/4 inch springs, or will I have to buy 2 1/2 inch and modify them to 2 1/4?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 932
Likes: 9
From: DFW, TX
F-3 Rear Spring Question
Vern,
I don't know for sure about your year, but on mine (56) the spring to axle bolts wrap over the spring pack, not around the axle tube. This arrangement requires the saddle pad on the axle to sit between the ends of the "U" shaped bolt. Measure the distance between the bolts to see if the 2 1/2" pad will fit. I am pretty sure that I used a 2 1/2" saddle pad when I installed mine.
With that said, I don't see why the 2" pad would not work also.
Good Luck,
I don't know for sure about your year, but on mine (56) the spring to axle bolts wrap over the spring pack, not around the axle tube. This arrangement requires the saddle pad on the axle to sit between the ends of the "U" shaped bolt. Measure the distance between the bolts to see if the 2 1/2" pad will fit. I am pretty sure that I used a 2 1/2" saddle pad when I installed mine.
With that said, I don't see why the 2" pad would not work also.
Good Luck,