this is true to a point. yeah, you may spend big money on your tools, but in the long run, it WILL save. for instance, new rotors and calipers on my 91 were gonna run me $980 to have a shop do it, that i know very well, and does great work. price of parts: $300, before the core charge return. because i had the tools to do it on my own, i was able to do it in the driveway for a grand total of $250. i actually made money on the calipers ($50 for the new ones, $65 for the core return), and all i had to buy other than the new parts was the socket to take the spindle nut off, and a tub of grease to repack the bearings.

think about it: you blow a head gasket, take it to a shop and its a $1500 to $2500 repair. but you spent, say, $500 on a good set of sockets and wrenches. for the same price, as that lone repair at a shop, you are able to replace the head gasket, AND put a top-end kit on your motor. just makes sense to me.

 

My scantool alone cost me $3985. I have $19,859 invested in tools. Every once in a while, something pops up where I need a new tool (ex. the new VW and Audi cars implement a 12 point or triple square, cost for teh set $98.) It's fresh in my mind because I just did my 2009 taxes. I guess being that PepBoys charges $99 per hour labor, yeah, you could come out ahead... but the fact remains... Buying a bunch of tools will put you in the hole. I own an autobody shop. Total tool costs over the lifetime of the shop(so far) has been $92,268. That doesn't include heating the shop, or electric or air conditioning.

But hey, if you are a new guy, start buying. Once you get hooked on fixing, and tol buying, you will slide down a slippery slope. You'll retain teh knowledge to fix, though.

but don't do it for cost savings. do it for knowledge.

 

I would have to disagree. I don't buy Snap on because I can't justify the expense but my craftsmans have gotten me through every thing I have ever wanted to do all for less than most shops would charge to replace a head gasket. I maintain a fairly strict buy as needed tool policy or it can get way out of hand. Once I start figuring how many times I have used each tool and how many were bought used it is easy to see I am money ahead. My most recent deal was my purchase of two 93 Probe GTs for $500, swapped the engine out of blown transmission car into the bad engine car. The person I bought them from had the same idea but couldn't find a shop to touch it for less than $2k so now I have a great running fun to drive 28mpg car for $500. Working on that car sure made me love working on my truck all over again, does a car really need 5 motor mounts?
-John

 

well, you also have to consider that most of the work done by guys on this forum is "shade-tree" work. they dont own shops. and we are talkin 73-79 trucks. i have yet to see a factory dentside with even a single computer more complex than an AM/FM stereo, so no scan tools needed here. besides that, there are tons of things that "require" job specific tools, and some of them do, but there are some things that can be improvised. like the little spring deals that hold the shoes on drum brakes, i use a pair of needle nose pliers to get em off. grand total, i doubt i have $300 invested in tools, and i could do a tranny swap if i needed to. like johnboy said, get tools as you need them. now im gonna be takin auto, diesel, and autobody startin in the fall, and ill need about $3000 in tools. but because im at the college, ill get those tools for less than $2000, and ill be able to do more with that stuff than ill probably ever get around to doin. lol.

 

If your considering doing your own brakes, remember there are 2 sides.
I have done lots of rear drum brakes over 20 years but not every day. So, I still pull both Drums and only tear One side apart at a time. That way I always have a reference to check my work to.

 

Also keep in mind that one side is a mirror image of the other. The Haynes manual photos of the light duty rear drums are for the right rear. If you haven't done them before, you may want to start there. There are Emergency brake kits and spring kits available at parts stores so you can replace all the springs clips and fiddly bits for under $10 per wheel, well worth the price. Check those wheel cylinder for operability while you're there. Check them for leakage and make sure the seals are keeping out the muck. Also check the hydraulic fitting on the back side of the backing plate for leakage.

 

I do the brakes for my wife, kids, and I. Who better to ensure their safety, and yes, I have experienced the forgetful mechanic who, go figure, forgot something. Never a problem and save a little money too! I am a Craftsman tool guy and I have my share of tools. Lastly, I still do it one side at a time...just in case.

 

John68, just FYI... I found a tool set at Farm and Fleet for $100. It has metric and SAE sockets (pretty much every size) short and deep-well, about 6 or 7 metric and SAE wrenches, and 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 ratchets. Had to replace the 3/8 ratchet so far, so total tool cost about $120.

Are they the best quality tools? No. But they work for what I do. Total saved over taking the car to a shop? Thousands!

Scan tools can be pricey, but anyone with a laptop can get an OBDII to USB adapter and software for around 200 bucks. Likely to do everything your scan tool can do. I don't have one currently, as I can't really justfity the cost just yet, but I may get one soon for my van.

Yes, you can end up spending a ton of money on tools. But it'll save money, and not just in the long run. 2 major repairs, and you've paid for your tools, if you're smart about it.

 

I got a Channellock tool kit for Christmas one year. That and about $100-200 more in tools that I've accumulated over the years. Your best bet though is to find a buddy who has a full tool chest and go for a visit with yer truck. My dad was a mechanic for a number of years, so he has a pretty thorough set, and Advance will loan me the specialty tools for free with a deposit. Basically, you pay for 'em and get it back when you return them. Have the spindle nut socket kit now, as a matter of fact. I'm tryin' to do my brakes myself.
Normally no big deal. About the only thing easier for me is changing the oil and the plugs/wires. 'Cept that no.8 cylinder in them d**m windsors. I've gotten a few holes in my hands due to them plugs.
Also, I much prefer the Chilton's to the Haynes. I get 'em both, but the Haynes is much worse about "Remove this part, then this part, then this part. Assembly is reverse of removal." and you have no idea of which part that is or how to get it off. No pics.
Anyway, to answer your question, I always do the work on my truck, unless I don't have the time and I DO have the money. Especially on these older ones. There's so much more room and so many fewer brittle electronic plugs that break off when you try to remove them. Brakes are so much cheaper if you do 'em yourself that it's completely worth doing it.

 

A great place to find good tools are at auction. I have seen good tools go for pennies on the dollar.

 

I did brakes on my old '78 F150 2wd the first time ever last summer.

It was WAY easy. Both front and rear were easy to do. I also had the factory Ford manuals so that helped me tremendously instead of a generic repair manual.

Both front and rear brakes have less than 10 parts. I'm not kidding.

 

Where'd you get that and where can I?

 

eBay.

If you have a 1979 truck, I've got the complete set that I plan to toss on ebay.

 

Nope. '78 F250 4x4 400. If you know of any of those, I'd love to snap one up. Otherwise I'll check out Ebay.

 

Let me know when that hits Epay.
-John