alright so i finaly did up my fuel tank and fuel system real simple. but im still having trouble gettignt he thing to start. so im thinking it can oinly be my main pump, injectors.

how do i go about testing these 2 systems to make sure there working properly?

 

what have you done so far did you change your return lines yet check your fuel pump and ruber lines to it

 

the air gremlin has been plaguing me as of late and causing less than happy starts. I have a clear tube from the fuel supply overflow to the return system and i am getting a small bubble of air at the top of its curve. Gotta get this one sorted since i relieved the high pressure i am seeing it a lot. Runs with more rattle too, just another tick mark in the worst month of my life.

 

Hard starts cold?

How is the glow plug system?

When you said you did the fuel system, did you do return lines and O rings?


To test injectors, you need a pop tester.
To test injection pumps, you need to take the IP to an injection shop and have it tested.

 

did you crack the injector lines to bleed the air?if not you will be cranking for days

 

how is the starter and battery combo? Any sluggish starting? If it doesnt turn over fast enough, it wont start either.

 

alright ill give yall wut all i have done... bought the truck and there was a 3 tank system. main and rear and a resever tank that was all tied to a duel selector switch system. after that was a water seporator system under the truck and then the 2 main lines... i pulled the tanks, droped the water system (had rust at bottom and full of water). sense i have no bed right now i bolted the tank reseve tank to pliewood, ran it to the main lines. bleed to fuel filter, cracked the lines at teh injectors and still wont start. i know the gp works. never tested the plugs, alwas have problems when its cold (ha at SA texas dont get cold, im talking 50f is cold) im guessing the gp r bad. the batteries r new but i dont think there good, going to have em checked, and i have a brand nnew starter on it (rebuild at a local shop)

i cant follow the lines so i never check the return lines, or the main line. i cant tell if the old water seporator system is over by the brake booster cuz my truck harness is a mess, im coming to the point were im about to rip the cab off my truck, redue the fuel lines, redue the harness, and then put the cab and bed back on after paint... problem is this is very time consuming witch i have very lil of, i have a friend who i coudl probably get to do the harness. but idk all about these fuel system, this is my first diesel and its giving me so much hell right now and i need it working

 

While you are cranking it are you getting any smoke out of the tailpipe.
I have seen these things that won't start the first time of the day even whan it is 90 degrees out with out help from the glow plugs, they have to work.

 

first thing you need to work on:
starting system.
this means the wires/cables/positive and grounds-batteries/starter etc.fresh cables if it needs it.(very likely if they're stock.but location has a lot to do with it.)
be sure to clean the block/connections and chassis ground connections,and every contact point in the positive side,and terminals of course too.
only once the engine can turn over super fast are you ready for the next step:

fuel delivery.
for now,since you have a custom setup.unhook the line that connects to the tank and fuel pump.hook this directly to a jug of diesel using a short hose.
turn the engine over,and see if fuel pumps out your hose.if so,hook it back up to the filter.fill your fuel filter with clean diesel.(its likely you need an injector install kit to avoid air intrusion.imho once you replace this,the e-pump mod is worth its weight in gold.)now the next step:

GP system.
now you need gp's.(see the sticky thread.)start by using the test light method at least.if you see a few blown,just replace them all.check the rest of the system to insure its working properly prior to replacing the GP's.
once you have these working,check the oil level and try to start it.
if its to old and worn out,and you take shortcuts to avoid costs due to not wanting to sink money in it,it could always be a hard/no start rig.so its tuff.

 

You said one thing that worries me, water seperator full of water.

My next move would be remove the fuel filter and see if it also has water in it and how much water compared to fuel.

If the IP had water in it, and it sat there with water in the IP, it may need replaced.

 

when i first had the truck running it never started good and yes it smoked on start up. i mean a really good amout of blue/white smoke but that never lasted more the around 30sec at best... i alwasy prodected the injectors would leak a tiny bit while it sat and that was just unbearned fuel. the gp's never really worked, just a shot of eather (god i cant spell that) and it would start in aroudn 10sec on a good cold day.... now the fuel filter in pretty much new, ill check for water in it cuz its a good idea. i dont have a dip stick but did a oil job under 500mines ago. we got the glow plugs to work off the switch they were suppose to be hooked to but dont actuall know if there r good gp or not. my main concer is fuel to pistons... i was thinking while reading, if u install a turbo these thign dont smoke black at all, mine will smoke black if i romp on the gas pedal, so could my pump be turned up? how can i check if it is?

 

Did I hear no dipstick. If you are romping on it at low rpm's it might smoke black until the motor catches up to the amount of fuel you are giving it, But it likely is turned up some or needs timed. Do you have a turbo, a stopped up air cleaner will make the roal the black smoke too.

 

yes i have a old ats turbo system with a waste gague. no the as long as im pumping like 6ish+ boost and hitting 2500rpms+ it will roll coal iv been thinking about taking it off to run a stock truck. i just need a new exhust and manafold, or could i just block off the opening were the turbo is for the manafold??? cuz it need a new exhust anywho the one on it is a flawed design. from the head it goes to a tiny lil ats turbo, but it doesnt rought direct to the turbo, it splits at teh end of a log block header system. half goes direct to turbo the other half raps and forums a u at the bottom by the oil pan. theres a huge air filter on it cover the main pump.

yes i have no dipstick and i cant really find a good replacement, were do i get a stock on. the universal ones dont seam to work to well

 

Dayum I was down there till thursday I could have brought everything you need and trade you out of the turbo. It shouldn't cost to much to send a dipstick I will look in the morning I probably have an extra one. If nothing else I can measure one and you can get a generic one at the parts house and mark it yourself. Have you got the dipstick tube.

 

well i want to keep the turbo cuz its a waste gague system and its a small one. when i get my truck back and its reliabel it just coudl be a good thing to get dual carbs and stick that lil thing on my vw bug the motor been stock for 3yrs and she need something a lil fun in here, just need to be different. iv been tempted to rebuild a chevy 350 motor in my rv and stick it in there. that woudl only cost like $800... hahaah getting a lil offtopic now

but starmilt, if u come down here to san antonio again and can make the truck run and put back to stock spects i will give u the turbo and a payment/thanks... liek i said iv been thinking about goign stock with it so its simplier for now