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EFI to carb conversion

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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 11:12 AM
  #16  
f1001969mike's Avatar
f1001969mike
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I kinda thought so, im always able to pick the two apart. rebuilding carbs is fun at least i like it anyway, first one i ever rebuilt was a single barrel holley 1945 carb off of a dodge van
so a manifold
a carb
a distributor
an electric fuel pump
and a bronze dis gear
that should be all i need?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #17  
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American Thunder
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From: Upstate New York
Originally Posted by f1001969mike
I kinda thought so, im always able to pick the two apart. rebuilding carbs is fun at least i like it anyway, first one i ever rebuilt was a single barrel holley 1945 carb off of a dodge van
so a manifold
a carb
a distributor
an electric fuel pump
and a bronze dis gear
that should be all i need?
Make sure the motor has a roller cam before you get the bronze drive gear for the distributor. And for the love of God, don't try to install the gear on the distributor yourself, it's a P.I.T.A. even if you have a press and all. Pressing the gear onto the shaft while lining up the roll pin holes is no fun.
My machinist was cursing about doing the job for 50 bucks.. heh
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 09:53 PM
  #18  
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f1001969mike
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yeah i can imagine! stupid question how do i know if its a roller motor? what i mean to say is how do i check, take the intake manifold off right? and the lifters will have like little casters on em right?, i know i sound stupid asking that but im just double checking.
now you said i could use any distributor i want IF its a roller motor, any difference if its a flat tappet motor?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #19  
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American Thunder
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From: Upstate New York
You can always use any distributor, the 289/302 has a different one than a 351W though,(the 351W is taller) so make sure it's for the correct motor. Roller cam = bronze gear, flat tappet cam = iron gear.
You can tell the roller motors by pulling a pushrod and checking the length with the book. I can't remember now the lengths of each, but the roller lifters are taller than the flat tappet lifters, therefore those require shorter pushrods.
If you remove the intake(you'll have to anyway, to switch to a carb) you'll see right away the lifter attaching plates in the valley if they're roller lifters. On the stock roller setup, each pair of lifters will be connected with a piece of steel, it's how they keep them from rotating in the bores.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #20  
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f1001969mike
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cool thanks for lettin me know about the whole 289/302-351 distributor difference
all this info's been a great help guys thanks loads!

so any ideas on what carb and manifold i should go with? what size?how are those summit brand carbs, anyone heard anything on those? summit also makes their own maifold for the 302 as well
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 06:10 AM
  #21  
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American Thunder
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From: Upstate New York
I'm a hardcore Holley guy, I build them, tune them, love them. Also, lots of Fords came stock with them, so they look right on a SBF. I also like edelbrock intakes. The basic performer intake works good on a mild motor.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2010 | 11:02 PM
  #22  
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benshere
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From: Longwood, Fl
Why would you add an electric fuel pump when there is already one in the tank? I have used an in tank pump on a t-bird when I did a TBI to carb conversion. Frankly, if it had not had a TBI system but a regular sequential (or batch fire) I would not have gone to carb. The FI system is much better, especially with a ~5K truck!

The in tank pump runs all the time and has a return line for the excess fuel over what the engine uses. It is not controlled by the PCM except to detect when the engine is running to turn it on, so as not to pump fuel when its not running. One of the ignition leeds (I forget which one at the moment---EVTM) at the distributor signals a tach pulse to the PCM which in turn supplies pwr to the fuel pump relay to pull it up and that provides pwr to the pump itself. The in tank pump will run for about 1-2 seconds at key-on to pressurize the rails then shut off. It will not run again until the engine starts. I dont recall what year truck you said you had, but to have a 2 pump system, its pretty early. My 85 bird had only 1 in tank pump.

You will need a 3-port adjustable regulator (mallory is what I used). 1 port=intake from tank. 2nd port for tank return. 3rd port, regulated to ~7 lbs for the carb feed. This isnt speculation, I did it.

I am going to 10-4 the 351 bit also (.02). Whatever numbers you are looking at for HP are by no means the whole story. The 351 is a much better starting point, even for a few bux more right now. You can go up from there. With the 302 you will have to start pretty well "up". I know how it is to get something into your head that you want to do---been there, done that , but you should try to take your time and not hurry.

I know a little bit, but some of these guys are way ahead of me---. Might want to listen to them!! LOL anyway
 
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