Occasionally, after the vehicle ('03 Escape, 3.0 AT,4X4)has been driven and you return 10-15 minutes later it does not want to start. It cranks over really good but won't start unless I hold the accelerator about half way down. This problem has been off & on since about 30K mi. now has 60K mi. Dealer cleaned and replaced the IAC motor under warranty but problem reappeared shortly afterwards. Starting to happen more often and the other day it did it first thing in the morning (cold). I've cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the air & fuel filters and plan on new plugs. Any one have any ideas?

 

Upper/lower intake gaskets. If/when you do the plugs, make sure to replace the gaskets.

 

We replaced our battery and have not had the problem since- about 20,000 miles.

I thought the oil change place was just trying to get me to buy a battery but telling me it wasn't fully charging. But like I said, since replacement no problems.

 

Its been said on here that cleaning the IAC is a temporary fix.I have read that it could be TPS or the IAC.Hope it helps you.Also there is a great write up on how to change your spark plugs very good step by step.

 

One can usually have their primary charging / starting system components checked out at the local parts stores for free. I would be interested in the results if you do this (considering the post from scott91370).

 

Ok guys, thanks for the replies. Please re-read my original post. It is not a battery problem. It cranks over very good, just doesn't want to start if its sat for 15-20 minutes unless I hold the accelerator down. And it doesn't always do this but it is happening more frequently. Once it starts all is fine and it runs perfectly.

 

Shorts in the battery cells have been known to affect the ECM in some strange ways without noticeably effecting the cranking of the starter.

 

I'm not saying your wrong, I just have a hard time believing it's a battery problem. Shorted cell or not, as long as this has been happening (30k mi.) and it's still the same battery, with no other electrical symptoms, I just don't see it being a battery. This is my wife's ride and she has politely mentioned (meaning FIX IT) this problem happening more often. So to preserve the peace, I'll just have to confiscate her wheels for a week or two while I try to remedy the problem.

 

I'm occasionally running into the same problem. Just to let you know I had idle problems turned out to be lower manifold gaskets. I also have replaced 4 coils all the plugs, most of the vacuum hoses, ECM sensor, IAC solenoid, fuel filter air filter, fuel injector o-rings
. So I really expect my 2001 to just fire up, but once in a while it will crank and crank. So I feel your pain.

What's interesting is you have to hold the throttle open, partially. That does nothing but let more air in, I don't believe it will do anything for the gas while it's cranking since it's fuel injected, although I could be wrong. Reading your first post, you've done a good job of what most of us would go through trouble shooting. So I'm stumped too. I did notice that when I came home from the airport last week on a cold day, that it cranked pretty slow (at the time I thought oh crud, battery is going) since then been fine. I may just replace my battery soon, the last time I replace it was March of 2006. I'm not saying this is a battery problem, but it is perplexing. If I come up with anything I post it. If I replace my battery I'll let you know if that solved the problem too.

You may think about checking the fuel pressure and see if it meets specs. I'm not sure if a bad throttle position sensor would cause this problem, but it does help the ECM come up with the proper air/fuel mixture. If the engine compartments dirty, hey aren't they all (well at least in the winter), maybe you have a dirty or loose connection on one of the sensors.

The trap we (well... OK me) all seem to fall into is thinking the next part we replace will fix it, but that's not always the case$$$ At this point I don't have any other ideas to add, sorry. I'll be replacing my front crankcase oil seal and oil pan gasket soon, so if I come up with anything else will let you know.

Scott

 

Been thinking about this problem. When you reported that it was not starting hot, I thought of the possibility of your fuel pump overheating, but then you said it did it cold.
Here's something you could try and won't cost a dime. Maybe you have a fuel pump relay that's intermittently acting up. You could switch out that relay with another see if the problem goes away. Inside your engine compartment there is the set of relays in the black plastic box near the battery. When you open it up what the relays are, are inside that cover. Try switching the fuel pump relay with say the main fan, or there are a couple others that are the exact same relay. If it works then you can replace the bad relay. If it doesn't than you know that the relay is fine, and cross that off your list.

Anyway won't cost a thing, takes about 2 minutes to do.

Scott

 

Do you hear the fuel pump prime the system? This would occur with key on, engine off.

 

We had no prolems with the truck turning over or starting. We could run the stereo while cleaning the car and then start it right up. That's why I thought the place was crazy when they said we needed one. We decided one day to replace it (after 130k miles & 4 years) and haven't had it happen since.

 

Just amazing how some things work.

 

I have a 2006 Escape, similar but mine is ONLY on cold start. It seems to start fine once its warm. *knock on wood*

turns over sluggish, the more I try the "easier" it turns over and eventually fires up. My boyfriend says it works better if you give it abit of gas as well (I dont find it makes a lick of difference!) I did notice a gargling type f sound when I turn the ignition to ON and the fuel pump kicks in. But not a humming like my boyfriends GMC, where the fuel pump is on its way out.

I had the battery and alternator tested, both are good. I have had people mention starter, but its not the "grinding" noise.

I am at a loss otherwise, would love to hear more options/opinions though. I dont even know where the starter is located or how to change the spark plugs, but I am bound and determined to fix this car!!!

 

Could it posssibly be that unpluging the battery wich would clear codes in the ECM is what fixed the problem and not the new battery?? Last I checked Fords sensors oporate at 5 Volts. Your battery is considered dead at around 10.5 volts. Every fuel injected Ford I have owned will start the motor if it will just turn over even very slowly.