I looked a friends 97 350 crew cab 4x4 power stroke 195k miles today. The truck drives great etc etc except for one problem.

I pulled the lever to place it in 4 hi. The light came on and when i started to drive ,10-15 mph, you could heard a fast popping noise from the left front end. Stopped placed it back into 2 hi and reversed for a few feet to make sure it was out.

drove forward and noise was there for a coulpe of seconds and stopped. Made a left turn got up to about 25 mph did it again and no noise.

Stopped and did it again from stop...... noise back.

So i was thinking bad hub or just needs lube????

He said he has not had it in 4x4 for over a year and he only drives the truck a few times a year (he is the second owner)).

What do you guys think?

Thanks for the help!

 

if the popping is the worst thing with it and the price is right, go for it. i bought a 97 f350 crew cab diesel with far more issues but i still thing its worth it. make sure to check carfax and check for recalls and TSB reports. good luck.

 

HE wants 5800 for it. It just needs a good cleaning on the inside and the steering is a little lose thats about it. 8' bed and al the body work has been done to it.

Starts right up and does not belch out the black smoke like older diesels.

If i get it its to replace a 2002 Ram 1500 quad 4x4 with 145k on it. It has trans problems (go figure) and front end problems are starting to pop up and 11 mpg!

 

Thats a great deal.

 

Ya thats what i was kinda thinking... Just afraid to take that leap of faith and buy a diff truck!

What is the life of a 7.3? I know when i was working in EMS our ambulances had the non turbo 7.3 and they ran for ever! WE really never had a problem with the drive train, it was all electrical. They ran just about 24/7 and were turned off seldom.

 

A well maintained diesel can easily last you 500k. diesels dont break in until 150,000 miles. to buy that same truck with that kinda mileage would cost $10k - $15k. Its a whole lotta truck to drive , but well worth it. If you want more info on Ford diesels i know of a web site to help maintain it .

 

Yes please that would help!! I do not know a lot about diesels and that kinda bothers me! Gas no problem! But thanks again for the site!

 

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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Some things to check

PCM MODS chips or IDM mods, FPR Shim Last time CPS was changed. Any codes flashing?
and then
Turbo:
You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube. Also, check the shaft outside of the fins for any signs of scuffing. Too much play in the fins so that it hits the shaft is NOT good.

Airbox:
Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot.

Tranny:
If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it’’s been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:
4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:
Ask the previous owner about the coolant – have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97′’s).

Front end:
Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is $$$ (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:
The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:
Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:
Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

CPS Failures:
Some of these trucks are notorious for eating CPS’’s. They can leave you stranded anywhere anytime intermittedly. Finding out if it has been replaced (maybe more then once) might be a good idea. You never know when they”ll go out, so it is best to carry a spare. These can often be had for under 50 bucks

Injector o-rings:
The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar allow to sit and check for water and trash.

Leaks and Drips:
You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:
If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN’’s through Carfax.com to see the title history.
or VIN Number Decoder offer to you by Ford Trucks Enthusiasts | www.ford-trucks.com

 

Wow thats a TON of info! Thank you!!!

His friend owns a Ford dealership and they did the once over for him. They found an injector that was bad and a couple of other minor things. So it has been gone over pretty well, at least i think! lol lol

Ford said i could buy a rebuild kit for the hub 180.00 or buy a new hub for 308.00...... huuummm ......

Thanks again for the info. I just called my friend and told him i would buy the truck.

 

Your welcome
I pull the autos off of mine and put manuals. No more getting stuck due to bad auto locks.

 

Well I think I am going to fix the auto hub. The truck will be driven by both my wife and I. She has already said she is not getting out and locking the hubs!

I think i just might have to trade her in for a new wife!!! lol lol

Thanks again for the info!

Hey Wolfgar.... Can you send me that link again? I thought i bookmarked it, but you know how that is!