when you did the fuel pressure test tell us the info again. what was koeo pressure and did you have to cycle it more than once to get it to full pressure. what was the koer pressure. how long and how much did the pressure drop with koeo. don't forget to reset the pcm after you change these sensors. check for codes agian and tell us what you are getting. you might be getting frustrated but it sounds like you have a somewhat neglected truck there . it is going to take a little effort. you cant have parts falling apart(dfpe) and expect not to replace them.

 

lol, No I just bought the truck and yes the guy neglected it big time. I'm just trying to get it running right then take care of it. But you had a good question that I didn't know meant anything. when I keyed on the ignition it was like 20lb then I cycled it , and it went to 20 again. then on the third time it went to 65 if I remember correctly. does this tell me anything? . I think I'm going out to slide the bed back and take a look while I wait for instruction.
Thanks again guys.

 

Your trouble codes indicated you had more than one problem, so don't expect to throw one part at the truck & have all your problems dissapear.
Just simmer down & don't get frustrated. Take the problems one at a time & fix them.

Now that you've replaced the DPFE sensor & cleaned the MAF sensor, have you erased the trouble codes????

If not, you'll want to pull the battery B- cable for 15 min, to wipe the computers memory, so it can begin to build new fuel trim tables & relearn it's cold & warm idle strategy with all of the new parts.

If your scantool will read PID's, give us a reading on the MAF sensors output PID to the computer, maybe the O2 sensors PID & long & short fuel trim numbers too.

Also after erasing the computers memory & driving it some, scan the computer again, for any pending, or reset trouble codes & post All of the code Numbers.

You can listen to the fuel injectors with a mechanics stethoscope, or if you don't have one, a piece of tubing, rubber hose, long screw driver, or wooden broom handle will do, as a poor mans substitute!!!!

If you don't have a vacuum gauge, most autparts stores have them & maybe a stethoscope, in their "Loan-A-Tool" program, for a refundable deposit.

Use your inductive timing light on any sparkplug wire, to quickly & safely see if the coilpack is making spark.
If you don't have one of those, most stores have them in their loan a tool program too.

Most autoparts stores can & will do a no cost output bench test the coilpack, if you come to suspect it, but I doubt you have a coilpack problem.

 

I just went out and dropped the tank. I agree it would probably be easier to slide the bed back but I didn't have a torq bit that big so I just went for the tank. I took it down and basically the plastic lock nut 6" round thing was disintegrated and the pump was just sitting there. would air getting in there be a problem? or is the tank vented anyway? I couldn't get the whole pump out cause my brother ran over my plastic tool for fuel line release with his golf cart today.

 

Well, I'm a lot further into this truck financially than I hoped for. At this point I'm wondering whether to just let it go,part it out then scrap it or what. Last night I got excited and pulled the fuel pump out and checked the tank. But in the middle of contemplating spending $250 for the fuel pump assembly since I need the sending unit and everything. My buddy calls 2 mechanics, tells them the symptoms and both say . "bad heads" for all I know they could be right??? . So now I'm trying to find out the best financial route to go with this truck. This truck was not cared for like it could have, such as fluid changes. And I'm wondering how far off a rebuild would be after I redo the heads. So I'm just trying to decide.

 

Well first off you have one head. I'd there a milky subsyance around the oil cap? Is coolant disapearing? I thought your Fuel pressure was fine! How much did you pay for the truck?

 

I just reread the thread. in your first post you said the truck had a new head gasket? can you talk to the person you got it from and ask him about it.

 

Well, the guy I bought it from used it as a fleet vehicle for a lock and safe company. So he doesn't really know what the mechanic did to it. He's never popped a hood in his life. So the info is very unclear as to what he did or didn't do.

As for the purchase of the truck. I had been in the market for something like this for months, he was asking $2500 which was way too much, then he had dropped it down to $1,500 (on craigslist) Now the pictures looked good, and he stated that it had a new clutch, head gasket, injectors. And his mechanic said it probably just needed a fuel pump. Now this truck was about 3 hrs from where I live. So I told him, look if I come up there and it is what you say it is, will you take $1,200 ? He said, no I have to get $1,300 . So I just went on my way and didn't really feel like going all the way up there and buying it ,knowing that it didn't even run right. So about 3 weeks went by and he emailed me and said" if you come give me $1,100 you can take it off my hands." So I headed out with some cash, when I got there it was waaay rougher than I thought, but I was already there 3 hr drive and all. So I gave him $900 for it, which includes an A.R.E aluminum topper with racks. So It still wasn't too bad. But upon further inspection once I got it home I realized the 170k of in town traffic driving had paid a toll on its chassis. Every leafspring ,ball joint, tie rod etc. was worn and on its last leg. I've already spent $500 on sensors,plug wires,coil pack.And its still not fixed. Seems like I would still have quite a bit of work to do on the chassis. So now I just want to figure whats best for me, I don't have tons of time to work on all these things, My work keeps me busy, and a needy wife who gets on me every time I'm out in the garage Sorry this was so long, and I appreciate all you guys' expertise ! I'm just pondering................. I can remove the topper, sell the truck for $700-$800 and buy something else (I know it'll have problems too, but less)...................

 

why are the wives always bothering us. If we are not home they are annoyed. if we are home watching TV they are annoyed. if we are in the garage they are annoyed..lol......You will have figure out what you want to do.let us know if you need any more help.......

 

Lol, they're all the same. Hard to keep them happy. Can't live with em, can't live without em.

 

Ok guys, I haven't given up yet!! I've just been working.

I finally got a hold of the code reader again. Cleared the codes and scanned it again.
only one code came up, P1401(DPFE sensor circuit input above the maximum.)


which after FTEing for a bit, I've come to realize its probably not anything mechanical but electrical( since I did change the dpfe sensor already)

My question is, I'm supposed to test the electrical connection come from the PCM for a certain voltage? And visually inspect for any shorts or open circuits? Anyone have any tips on where to start or how to start? Or what to actually change out?? I'd appreciate that!

Hopefully she'll run great as soon as I figure this out.

 

Maybe you should recheck the timing. if the timings off just a bit it'll work seemingly fine, but when it hits high rpms the timing advance could be way off, or the timing advance could be right at high rpms but at low rpms itd knock or sputter. if the timing is right check the timing advance itself

 

Well, after messing around for weeks. I've got all the trouble codes gone. and the problem is exactly the same. In fact, now its idling terribly, and it idled fine before. So I went about as far as my expertise took me , which wasn't very far, but with you guys' help I tried. I'm going to take it in to my mechanic and let him deal with it. thanks everyone for you help, and I'll post what my mechanic finds.