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brake controller voltage issues...

Old Feb 12, 2010 | 04:05 PM
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brake controller voltage issues...

I have a 2001 F250 PSD and I noticed that my brake controller was no longer working the other day so I purchased a new one. When I went to install it I check the voltage in the factory wire harness for the brake controller and in the blue wire (trailer feed) I was getting 2.4 volts without hitting the brake and when hitting the brake I was only getting approximatly 6.3 volts (all with the truck running.) In the instructions for the brake controller it shows that I am suppose to have 12 volts when brake is pressed and to confirm we checked it on my dads Excursion and it was reading 11.9 volts pressed and 0 volts with no brake. I know there is an issue somewhere I just cant seem to find it and I was wondering whether anyone had any suggestions on how to troubleshoot or has had this issue before.

The brake contoller I purchased is Activator III 1-4 Axle Brake Control - #5520
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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have you checked the fuse box under the hood?Im sure one of them fuses is for the electronic brake controller!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 04:41 PM
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if it was a bad fuse wouldnt there be no voltage at all?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 04:54 PM
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Were you testing at the back or straight from the controller? I had a similar problem - but didn't believe it was the controller. Once in a while I am right - it was the pig tail harness at the back.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by derekmj64
if it was a bad fuse wouldnt there be no voltage at all?

is it possible for voltage too back feed? yes i think so!doesnt hurt to check the fuses tho!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 05:10 PM
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im going to run out in the barn and check now... man i hate DC voltage issues!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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I would also post ur problem in the (Towing,Trailers and 5th wheel) section there pretty good with that wiring stuff!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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I will put it in that section thanks! I checked my fuses under the hood and the dash and every one of them appeared to be good. When I tested it i tested the wires coming directly out of the harness without the brake controller hooked up.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 07:49 PM
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first check voltage on c279 (hot side on BPP)
should be 12 volts

then check the other side of that switch with the brake pedal out and in. yours should be getting the same readings that you got off the blue wire for the brakes. but it should read 0 out and 12 in.

if its reading voltage while brake petal is out the unplug the relay and then check it again, if its still reading voltage then your multifunction switch is backfeeding, to be sure check c230b Lg wire (in picture its at the top right of the multi switch)should be reading something

if you unplug the BPP switch and there is no voltage then your BPP switch is bad. let us know the readings you find.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 10:42 AM
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where is the bpp located?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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idk i just tried goin on autozone.com there site is down. just go there and register they have alot if good info. go the the section where it tells your where a part is on your truck.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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So i changed the BPP and i am still having the same voltage reading out of the harness that goes to the brake controller. I lost on where to look next...
 
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by derekmj64
So i changed the BPP and i am still having the same voltage reading out of the harness that goes to the brake controller. I lost on where to look next...
What were the test results?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by derekmj64
So i changed the BPP and i am still having the same voltage reading out of the harness that goes to the brake controller. I lost on where to look next...
Low voltage and voltage anomalies almost always result from poor connections. In my work I deal with these constantly will often run new leads rather than try to trace wiring and locate the impossible.

I am wondering if it might be faster for you to simply forget the factory connection to the controller and wire the controller in as though the factory harness was not there. In the olden days, that is how we all did it.

All controllers come with wiring instructions and it is pretty basic. Just a thought,

Steve
 
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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the test results were the same as before 2.4 volts without hitting the brake and when hitting the brake I was only getting approximately 6.3 volts (all with the truck running.)
 
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