OVERHEAD DISPLAY BRIGHTER
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 2
From: Chattanooga, TN
OVERHEAD DISPLAY BRIGHTER
Hey Guys,
I am attempting to disconnect the blue w/red stripe wire in the passenger's side kick panel as instructed to make the overhead readout lights bright all the time.
I have found the plug and wire, but please instruct how to remove the single wire from the plug.
Do you use some sort of push pin from the wire entry side or what.
I'm sure Ford or someone else makes a nice tool for the connector removal.
I have used small screw drivers or homemade pieces to complete the wire pin removal.
Thanks muches,
I am attempting to disconnect the blue w/red stripe wire in the passenger's side kick panel as instructed to make the overhead readout lights bright all the time.
I have found the plug and wire, but please instruct how to remove the single wire from the plug.
Do you use some sort of push pin from the wire entry side or what.
I'm sure Ford or someone else makes a nice tool for the connector removal.
I have used small screw drivers or homemade pieces to complete the wire pin removal.
Thanks muches,
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 2
From: Chattanooga, TN
Well,
I finally did figure out how the pins are removed from the plug connector.
As one member posted, you remove that thin orange colored piece in the middle - simply with a small screw driver pry it out enough to use needle nose pliers to further remove it.
Now, You can look into the connector from the opened end. There is a small plastic spring tab that grabs the pin; you simply use a small blade screw driver, push in between the spring tab and the metal pin then pull out on the pin from the opposite end.
I removed the blue/red stripper wire and wahla, my overhead display remains bright even with the headlights on.
I finally did figure out how the pins are removed from the plug connector.
As one member posted, you remove that thin orange colored piece in the middle - simply with a small screw driver pry it out enough to use needle nose pliers to further remove it.
Now, You can look into the connector from the opened end. There is a small plastic spring tab that grabs the pin; you simply use a small blade screw driver, push in between the spring tab and the metal pin then pull out on the pin from the opposite end.
I removed the blue/red stripper wire and wahla, my overhead display remains bright even with the headlights on.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
not to highjack this thread, but i had done the overhead liar repair and it worked. however now it seems to have a short in it. when i turn the truck on sometimes the overhead liar kicks on and sometimes it doesn't. when it does not i simply tap the screen and it kicks on. any ideas ?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 466
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, CAN
not to highjack this thread, but i had done the overhead liar repair and it worked. however now it seems to have a short in it. when i turn the truck on sometimes the overhead liar kicks on and sometimes it doesn't. when it does not i simply tap the screen and it kicks on. any ideas ?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 2
From: Chattanooga, TN
Brandon,
I also experienced the same scenario....it doesn't work, thump it, it works, etc.
Sooooo...I took the bugger down again and found where I had soldered those surface mount resistors, there were two that were loose - I had not done a good job of soldering those buggers back into place.
I took some solder wick, removed the excess solder at the ends of the resistor on the pc board, then lightly sanded the ends of the resistors to where you can see a shiny surface and carefully placed them down and soldered them once again.
I now like the looks of the soldering job and everything seems to be working just fine.
Give it a try.
I also experienced the same scenario....it doesn't work, thump it, it works, etc.
Sooooo...I took the bugger down again and found where I had soldered those surface mount resistors, there were two that were loose - I had not done a good job of soldering those buggers back into place.
I took some solder wick, removed the excess solder at the ends of the resistor on the pc board, then lightly sanded the ends of the resistors to where you can see a shiny surface and carefully placed them down and soldered them once again.
I now like the looks of the soldering job and everything seems to be working just fine.
Give it a try.
Trending Topics
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
mine is very very dim it sometimes works when it is really cold out then like 0 or colder i have tried tapping on it even smacked it a couple time but still dont work I know they are not to accurate but would still like it to work should I try the wire deal or is it something else ..... any suggestions?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
82F1507.5
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
34
Mar 14, 2019 02:11 PM
michaelg10
Excursion - King of SUVs
1
Sep 9, 2016 05:59 PM
