fuel leak
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 124
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From: Summit, MS
fuel leak
I can see fuel leaking off one of the metal fuel lines that run under the turbo from the pass. side. I think it comes to the fuel filter if I am seeing correctly. It is not leaking up close to the filter, so before I do exploratory surgery, do any of you have any ideas on the front end? I assume that the line is one continuous piece, but you know about assumptions 
Could be that it has a crack or rubbed spot in it, but it does not appear to be very high pressure at all. No spray, just drips. I noticed it after I did the o-ring job on the fuel drain valve (thanks to all you who saved me bucks there) when I could still see fuel dripping from back of valley pan. Thanks in advance.
Could be that it has a crack or rubbed spot in it, but it does not appear to be very high pressure at all. No spray, just drips. I noticed it after I did the o-ring job on the fuel drain valve (thanks to all you who saved me bucks there) when I could still see fuel dripping from back of valley pan. Thanks in advance.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
That fuel line is one piece from the rear of the head to the passenger side of fuel bowl. Both ends are sealed by a parker sleeve. To hold it in place it runs through a P-strap just behind and below the GPR. If it is just weeping then it is most likely in need of a new parker sleeve where it connects at the rear of the head. Leaks have been know to occur at the P-strap but I think it would be more of a spraying leak.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
First you have to determine where the leak is. If it is at the rear of the head and the fitting in the head is not leaking then you need to replace this PARKER 1/4" VITON Sleeve between the fitting in the head and the nut that secures the fuel line. The link is for illustration, explanation and nomenclature but is a great place to buy. It is a PITA to get to that fitting without removing some things that are in the way, but you will not have to remove the whole line.
If it is leaking at the fitting in the fuel bowl you need to be sure the fitting is tight, but don't over do it or you run the risk of cracking the fuel bowl. If that fitting is tight you need to replace the same sleeve as mentioned above.
If the leak is in the hard line itself then the whole line needs to be replaced. If it comes to that just post back.
If it is leaking at the fitting in the fuel bowl you need to be sure the fitting is tight, but don't over do it or you run the risk of cracking the fuel bowl. If that fitting is tight you need to replace the same sleeve as mentioned above.
If the leak is in the hard line itself then the whole line needs to be replaced. If it comes to that just post back.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Summit, MS
I'll let you know what I find. Unfortunately it is not at the fuel bowl (my luck) but I have a feeling it is in the line because fuel is running along the bottom of the line. It drips off the line at the point where it goes under the turbo. I hope I can get to look at it tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
If you remove the GPR and the GPR mount bracket you can get a better look. Lift the positive batt cables before you mess with the GPR. It has an ALWAYS HOT terminal. #2 in below pic. If you have an AIH relay it may need to be removed as well. My early 99 does not so I am not sure, but I would think so.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Summit, MS
I made the repair this afternoon. The little clip that the line runs through had rubbed a hole in the line, so after a half hour of taking stuff off I managed to start working on the problem. The worst part of the whole deal was reaching the fitting on the back of the head! Got the line out and a little braze braze here, a little braze braze there and I'm running again. I could prolly do it again in about a half hour now that I know what to do. Thanks a heap for your help Robin! Now I can move on to that annoying leaking exhaust manifold........a thread for another day.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Payson, AZ
How did you fix it? Cut the line and put in a piece of soft fuel line or replace the whole hard line?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I'll get a pic for you when I check mine. It's hard to see without the use of a mirror and flashlight. It's under the GPR mounting bracket.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,797
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From: Northern Colorado
I modified the P-clamp so it would fit around a 5/16" piece of fuel hose to keep it from rubbing the fuel line. From the factory, the line is very loose as it passes through the clamp, allowing a lot of movement that causes it to rub a hole through the line. The easiest way to get to the line is to remove the turbo outlet spider and the four boots. That will allow you access to reach the rear fuel rail fitting.
Just remember that when you remove the fittings, the fuel sleeves will not be reusable, they will be hard and cracked with pieces falling out of the compression nut.
Here is a pic of the P-clamp modified to pinch down on the piece of fuel line. It is right next to the turbo pedestal bolt on the passenger's side.
Just remember that when you remove the fittings, the fuel sleeves will not be reusable, they will be hard and cracked with pieces falling out of the compression nut.
Here is a pic of the P-clamp modified to pinch down on the piece of fuel line. It is right next to the turbo pedestal bolt on the passenger's side.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
Thanks Robin, Bob's got us covered on this strap, great pic Bob, reps to yaa. I'll be doing some painting under their soon so I'll get that taken care of then. I have some flexable flat rubber roof patch material to cushion that hose from that strap, used it for coolant hose possible contact areas to protect, works great.
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Senior User
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From: Summit, MS
Robin, to answer your question, I brazed (brass rod but you could silver braze if that is what you have/work with the best) the rubbed spot in the line, adding material on both sides of the worn spot cause I wasn't smart enough to put a piece of rubber hose on there 
. The parker sleeves were indeed shot on both ends even though they weren't leaking. Guzzle's pics show the location of the strap, which is very easy to get to once the spider is out of the way. It would be a good idea to slip that strap off and put a piece of hose on there if you are in there working any time soon because I figger they all rub sooner or later. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the helpful info. I could not afford to own one of these trucks if this site were not available.
. The parker sleeves were indeed shot on both ends even though they weren't leaking. Guzzle's pics show the location of the strap, which is very easy to get to once the spider is out of the way. It would be a good idea to slip that strap off and put a piece of hose on there if you are in there working any time soon because I figger they all rub sooner or later. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the helpful info. I could not afford to own one of these trucks if this site were not available.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I do plan on removing the P-clamp, slitting a piece of soft fuel line, wrapping it around the hard line and then replacing the P-clamp(will probably have to get a slightly larger one). That should take care of it as long as I get to it soon.
We'll get your exhaust leak fixed when the time comes.
Take Care.
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