I have a Deere x320 mower w/Kawasaki engine that currently having starting issues. It cranks and gets plenty of fuel. I narrowed it down to no spark.
After some major internet searching I found a suggestion about disconnecting the coil ground wire. So I pulled the connector apart, and it started right up! If I try reconnecting the ground it dies.
It will be a week before my dealer can get it in to look at it. So, my question is, will it hurt anything to run the engine without this ground? My driveway is majorly snow drifted, and I'd rather not have to shovel the whole 80ft by hand.

 

You'll have a hard time shutting it down, but otherwise it's ok. Just remember none of your safeties will work either, so if you get your foot caught in something you're SOL.

 

Stryder,

Jared is spot on. . . BUT. . . I have a semi-educated notion that one of your safety switches is at fault, here.

Reconnect your ground wire, then, unplug one safety switch at a time until it starts.
In other words, disconnect one safety switch, see if it starts.
If it doesn't, reconnect that switch, and move to the next, and so on, and so on.

My gut feeling is the blade safety switch, or, the seat switch.

 

Thanks guys. I'll try unhooking safety swithes, though I'm just a bit skeptical. Here is why. With this Deere, if one of the switches is tripped, the engine wont even turn. For example, if your not sitting in the seat and turn the key nothing happens. Same thing if you sitting in the seat and dont depress the clutch. So the fact that the engine will turn once seated with the clutch depressed may lead to something else.
I'll definitely give it a try, as I'm sure you guys know more than I do. Things were much simplier on the old 3.5hp Briggs push mowers.
I'll give it a try tomorrow after work and report back
Thanks again!

 

There may be 2 parts to the safety lockout. One to kill the engine and one to prevent you from starting it. One of my tractors wouldn't start with the PTO engaged, and it would kill the engine if the seat switch wasn't closed -- probably also wouldn't start then either, but I don't remember.

The point being that there are probably 2 different circuits. So disconnecting the various switches might help you figure it out.

The wire you're pulling probably grounds the trigger side of the coil, so that the points or electronic ignition have no effect.

It won't hurt your tractor to run it with the wire off -- and safely secured out of the way.This is not to say that I recommend that solution, but it is available -- you just have to be aware of what you're getting into.

 

I have limited experience with newer John Deeres, but I know they (especially the larger, "fancier" ones) use some fairly advanced electronics as part of the safety circuits and the shut down circuits.
Many of them now have a sophisticated shut down system to prevent afterfire (unburnt fuel hitting a hot muffler at shutdown after kiling the ignition).
Let me ask you this: when it was operating normally, did turning off the ignition switch result in the engine continuing to run for a couple of seconds before it stopped?
If so, I suspect your problem is in a part know as a module. I know it should have a more descriptive name, but that is what it is called. What happens when you turn the ignition switch off is this: power to the anti-afterfire solenoid is cut while the coil is permitted to make spark for a couple of seconds. The anti-afterfire solenoid is a cylinder that screws into the bottom (usually) or side (some models) of the carburetor. It is nothing more than an electromagnetic valve that permits flow of fuel into the main jet or nozzle when the ignition switch is turned on. When the ignition switch is moved to the "stop" position, current flow to the solenoid is also cut and the spring internal to the solenoid pushes the valve closed stopping any more fuel flow out of the carburetor bowl into the cylinders as the engine winds down.
The reason for this is that if you cut the spark, fuel will continue to be drawn into the cylinders on the intake strokes as the engine spins down. Since there is no spark, the unburnt fuel passes directly into the hot muffler, typically resulting in a loud "BANG" when you are about 2 steps away from the tractor, scaring the bejeezus out of the operator. To further refine the process, some engine manufacturers, and Kawi is one of them, actually put a delay on the spark kill. So what happens is this: you turn the key off, the solenoid closes shutting off fuel flow to the cylinders, the ignition delay module continues to produce spark for a couple of seconds to burn off any remaining fuel in transit to the cylinders, then the ignition module stops producing spark and the engine winds down without an afterfire that will make you jump every time.

Without seeing your particular tractor, it is hard for me to see where this module might be. On the JD's I have worked on (with a Kawi twin cyl eng) the module was attached to the frame somewhere around the operators left shin/ankle. But, the only "module" I see in the parts diagrams for your model is in the instrument panel itself (pn# AM141075 $63.00) and I am not at all sure that is the correct part. On the ones I have worked on, the module was about 1" square and had, I think, 3 wires coming out of it that plugged right in to the wiring harness.

Sorry I can't help you more, but I would suggest you go to MyTractorForum, get yourself registered and post in the JD section. There are guys there that have probably been through this exact situation and can help you out more specifically than I can.
I do know that your problem is not at all unique from talking to my local JD dealer/repair facility. In fact, the owner told me that his mechanics typically replace the ignition delay module as a matter of routine whenever there are ignition problems. On the models that I have worked on, it was a stand-alone module costing about 20 bucks. On yours, it may be integral to the rest of the electronic ignition controls.

Good luck and feel free to pm me with any other questions.

 

Tried to rep you Kal , no joy , gotta spread it around still...

 

Same here. The 'rep police' said that I have to 'spread the love'.


Somebody hit Kal up with some rep points for me, please!!!!!!!!!




(GREAT post, Kal!!!!!)

 

Got it !


My tractor (JD GX345) has done that since it was brand new.(6 yrs.)

Mine will run a few seconds after I turn off the key,and then;

would that be the result of a bad module?

(since it does both ?)


edit: if I let it run at low idle for a minute before turning off,it seems to not backfire as often.

 

If it runs for a couple of seconds after turning the key, the module is working properly. It is the anti-afterfire solenoid on the carb that is not working.
"Improved" fuel is wreaking havoc with these things and they are expensive as all get out. They are nothing more than a glorified doorbell chime yet, depending on the model, can cost over $100. Yes, you read that right.
And JD has you by the short hairs on the deal, too. There is virtually no aftermarket supplier for these things (at least none that I have found) and you can't even save a few bucks by buying straight from the engine manufacture. No, JD has that market sewed up tighter than a drum.
On older JD's with Kohler engines, I usually buy Kohler parts, not parts sold to JD by Kohler. On these newer Kawi's, you cannot buy parts used on Kawi engines in JD applications. You can only buy them from JD. It is a bit*h!
I replaced one on a (I think GX375) big lawn tractor and the solenoid was about a buck twenty! And, they go bad all the time. I have yet to resuscitate one successfully. The alcohol swells the rubber seals and keeps the (necessarily) weak spring from pushing the plunger to the closed position.
There may be some alcohol remediation additive products on the market to neutralize these effects, but I haven't really researched it.

It occurs to me that I never answered the OP question:
No, it absolutely will not harm your engine to run it without that ground wire. All it does is short out the ignition coil when it is time to shut down. It redirects the current from the sparkplug back to ground is all. No big deal other than you'll have to manually touch the wire to ground to kill the engine.

I apologize for not answering the main question earlier; I got all excited about the opportunity to educate folks how these things work..........

 

Well, unhooking the safety switches didnt make any difference, but was worth a try.
Kal, that is some pretty awesome tech! Thanks! I'll mention all of that to the dealer tech when I take it in. The good news is that my mower is still under warranty.
It sounds like it may be that module. I did have a few backfires late last fall, but didnt think too much of it. Figured I hadnt let it idle down long enough before shut it off.
Anyways, the driveway is plowed and no big snows in the forecast. I'll post back what the dealer finds.
Thanks to all and reps given!

 

Thanks for the info / advice Kal !

Sounds like for $100,I'll let it idle for a few minutes.
Probably better for the engine anyway.

 

And the winner is.....KAL!
Took it to the dealer here last week, and let him know the issue. He mentioned the same things as most, a bad safety switch. Well after replacing every single switch, including the ignition switch, he finally figured out it was the module. Starts and runs better than ever!
So thanks all for the help and excellent information!

 

Thanks for the follow up! I appreciate knowing how it turned out.
How much did the module set you back??

 

Always happy to give the outcome on any advise given.
The module was 0$. Mower is still under warranty. I forgot to ask what it would cost normally.
Thanks again for the help!