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I keep hearing about rebuildable u-joints with bronze inserts instead of needle bearings. They use them on xtreme 4x4 all the time. Would these work for road use? If so our machinist at work could make new inserts easy from the oil impragenated bronze stock we keep on hand for makeing clapper rollers out of. The way I see it the bronze would handle the load better than the needle bearings but I could be wrong, any thoughts would be great.
Dear god let the damn u joint fail!! People are making their u joints un breakable and now replacing drive shafts, i dont friggin get it. I can swap a failed u joint and u bolts in 5 minutes, i cant replace a drive shaft. They are made to fail!!!!
wreckinball....dont point out the obvious, some of us like catastrophic, leave you on the side of the road, completely screwed failure....
and for clarification, I am sure you (as am I) are capable of replacing a drive shaft....te question is finding a spare.
sorry - I couldn't resist.
But seriously, u-joints are designed to be the "break point" You can make them much tougher, but then you need to reevaluate the trucks usage and reengineer the entire drive system to make sure it is up to the task. For simplicity think of it as two fail-safes...the first is traction itself, the second is u-joints.
Years ago on a wheeling trip we created "indistructable" u-joints...on a hill climb the front shaft snapped and bent a clean 90*....while we still had the rear in tact, getting the truck off the hill safely took 3 trucks spotting and providing support....we could have very easily put it on its side or roof.
Hey now I wasn't looking make them bulletproof. I just want more life and the chance to rebuild not replace. I used to do alot of mudding about 20 yrs ago and had the cheap jionts so as not to screw a drive shaft as well as loops. The rear shaft in my Bronco is only about 2 ft long and takes a beating. I have the dfouble joint at the t-case and single at the pumkin. I have had to replace the back one twice in the last 2 years and was trying to find a less expensive way to do this is all. By the way, The driveshaft has been balanced and the pinion angle has been corrected it is just so short it seems to always be in a bind and the torque of these engines jsut makes it worse.
It will still be the weak link and they are great for a weekend mudder or rock crawler.
I don't think they will last as long on the street, or in a daily driver as your bearings though. I could be wrong. With your bronco and driveline angles,a short life is just a price you have to live with, I have never heard of a cure for it.
Guys when you twist and break a ujoint, it has been my experiance it usually gets the yoke on one end or the other, and sometimes both. In other words it has rarely been a 5 minute fix for me, I have even had them break the tailshaft.
I have changed lots of wore out ujoints that didn't break anything else, But the times I have busted a joint that was new or in good shape it has always been other parts break to.
I broke them quite often in my old jeep but it was up in the air and also had the extreme driveline angles. I always hoped for a u-joint to break first but once it was the pinion or yoke then another was the rear axle. The lousey 2 piece things that jeep used. But then I was over loading every part of that jeep driveline. I was running an amc 360 4bbl and 38 in swampers. That was when I was young had had to spend my money on something lol. But back to the subject. I have searched the net and found no info on useing these u-jointd for on road jsut thought some one on here might have a clue on them.
Changing from needles to bronze does not make the joint any stronger. The only advantage that I see is, the cross can be larger = stronger. From a wear standpoint, I believe it would be higher maintainance.
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