Transfer case leaking.
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From: Northren MN.
Transfer case leaking.
1988 F-350 4x4 with 5 speed manual tranny.
It's leaking where the rear drive shaft comes out. There's no puddle on the ground, there's just a drip hanging there, but it could be leaking when I'm rolling down the road. I had a leak on the rear differential when I bought the truck and the drive shaft was loose. I dropped the drive shaft and tightened the nut up, somehow it came loose. About a month after that I noticed that it was leaking again so I took the nut off and put a bunch of locktite around it and tightened it back up again with no problem ever since. I later found out that they make a nut with a flange on it and should be replaced when they rebuild your rear end, apparently the guy that did mine didn't do that. Now back to the transfer case, there is no nut on the end. How do I tighten it up so it doesn't leak? The drive shaft is not loose so that won't be a problem. The fluid cumming out is red, like a.t.f , Maybe I can put something heavier in it. Is the fill plug located right to the right and lower then the drive shaft, if looking towards the front of the truck? Thanks.
It's leaking where the rear drive shaft comes out. There's no puddle on the ground, there's just a drip hanging there, but it could be leaking when I'm rolling down the road. I had a leak on the rear differential when I bought the truck and the drive shaft was loose. I dropped the drive shaft and tightened the nut up, somehow it came loose. About a month after that I noticed that it was leaking again so I took the nut off and put a bunch of locktite around it and tightened it back up again with no problem ever since. I later found out that they make a nut with a flange on it and should be replaced when they rebuild your rear end, apparently the guy that did mine didn't do that. Now back to the transfer case, there is no nut on the end. How do I tighten it up so it doesn't leak? The drive shaft is not loose so that won't be a problem. The fluid cumming out is red, like a.t.f , Maybe I can put something heavier in it. Is the fill plug located right to the right and lower then the drive shaft, if looking towards the front of the truck? Thanks.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Do not put something heavier in it!! the fill plug is right next to the shaft and it will be higher, the drain is to the left of the housing. On to the problem! You need to get the rear yoke seal, it is probably worn out. It costs around 20 bucks and easily replaceable if you have the puller. It starts to spin out of there and will lead to all sorts of problems. Also prior to checking the seal or replacing it, make sure your vent is clear, it is next to the position sensor and shift shaft on the xfer case. below is the seal info
Ford part number : 2L1Z-7B215-A(new)/E8TZ-7B215-A(old)
Price: $46 in canada.
Ford part number : 2L1Z-7B215-A(new)/E8TZ-7B215-A(old)
Price: $46 in canada.
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From: Northren MN.
I just went out there and checked. The vent is clear.. The seal is chewed up a little, ( the little bit that's visible). There's 2 drain plugs, one about 2 inches to the left and down 3 inches, and one at the lower left of the case. It doesn't make any sense to me how lube can come out the drive shaft if it isn't even filled that high. There's a stamp on the case that says Borg, or Boro Automotive Services is this an aftermarket xcase? Anyway, just take out the carrier bearing, drop and pull the driveshaft, and pull out that metal ring around the seal. Pull the seal straight out and push the new one back in, then tap the ring back on? It sounds to easy, there has to be something that can go wrong. It looks like I can put a screw driver up to the ring and tap it out, moving along the circumference of the ring, instead of trying to get a hold of it with a puller. Then what? Refill with A.T.F, or is there something else that I should use? I might be going to Texas in a couple of weeks, and I don't want any breakdowns in the middle of nowhere. Thanks for the info.
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From: Northren MN.
I'm getting sick of working on this truck. I've been off work for two weeks and that seems to be all I'm doing. One of these days I'll have it all done.
It's all part of the fun of owning an i.d.i. Hopefully I'll have the blinkers figured out tomorrow. I changed out one tie rod and one end, now the steering is a little tighter. Greased up the king pins, it took about 25 pumps each bottom zerk. Still clunks a little when I turn, sometimes. Now the brakes are clunking on the left side. ( only when I hit the brakes) guess I don't need brakes. This is what happens when you work 60 to 76 hours a week, for 4 months straight. And I'm still broke.
I'll check on that seal tomorrow when I pick up mu new blinker switch. Thanks again.
It's all part of the fun of owning an i.d.i. Hopefully I'll have the blinkers figured out tomorrow. I changed out one tie rod and one end, now the steering is a little tighter. Greased up the king pins, it took about 25 pumps each bottom zerk. Still clunks a little when I turn, sometimes. Now the brakes are clunking on the left side. ( only when I hit the brakes) guess I don't need brakes. This is what happens when you work 60 to 76 hours a week, for 4 months straight. And I'm still broke. I'll check on that seal tomorrow when I pick up mu new blinker switch. Thanks again.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
bro, check my pics on my web page. here is the link----see below! you can see the shaft housing and its seal. You can see the numbers that will identify it, the drain plugs etc etc. I would like you to bang your transfer case off of these pics. If it is way different, take pics because the seal you were describing sounds original or different. If it is just the junk original, get it outta there and get it replaced asap, You will see a big diff. While you have it out, get a flash light in there to see if all is well or pull the whole housing, you will just need black oil resistant silicone, a t50 torx, and about 45 mins, it is easy. Then you can also verify your speedo cable to see if the teeth on the nylon plastic gears are good, might just eliminate more hassles in the future. I would also drain your whole case so to make life easy, drop the skid plate. Or you can use a long neck funnel/rigged up piece of plastic to make a drain funnel. I made one out of a water barrel that i chopped up to make a horse feeder. It works awesome and now i dont have to drop the skid plate! Good luck and talk to you later!
Yeah its crazy, I know! - Transfer Case
Yeah its crazy, I know! - Transfer Case
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From: Northren MN.
Yep, that's the same one wreckingball. So the seal just slides out? The speedometer doesn't work anyway, something wrong with it on the top side. I would like to get it working someday soon also. It started clicking and banging, it wouldn't work, then it would, finally the whole needle started spinning around. It bugged the hell out of me, so one day I pulled the instrument panel and the cable slipped right out of the speedometer. Good enough, I said, at least it will be quite.
Now I wish I at least had the odometer, I'll look into that later today also.
My tractors tranny filler is on the side of the tractor. In order to fill it I cut the narrow side off of an oil bottle. That way I can put the opening of the bottle into the fill hole and pour the a.t.f. in the hole I cut off the bottle. It would be the same thing that I'm gonna have to do with this transfer case.
Now I wish I at least had the odometer, I'll look into that later today also.My tractors tranny filler is on the side of the tractor. In order to fill it I cut the narrow side off of an oil bottle. That way I can put the opening of the bottle into the fill hole and pour the a.t.f. in the hole I cut off the bottle. It would be the same thing that I'm gonna have to do with this transfer case.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
dont worry about damaging the old seal, it can be literally cut out but do not....DO NOT damage the housing!! It is simple enough with needle nose pliers but the slide hammer puller is definitely the ticket. You can do it without the puller but it makes life easy!
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From: Northren MN.
Got the seal ordered, $28. I'll let everyone one know how it went tomorrow, when I get done. Will I have to drop the drive shaft totally, or will there be enough play in it after pulling the carrier bearing?
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From: Northren MN.
While I was installing the new seal, I cracked the boot that wraps around the shaft. That's what happens to rubber when it's 0 degrees out and you tap it with a hammer. Finished installing it anyway, and it doesn't leak. I'm sure sometime in the near future I'll be doing it again, so that shaft will stay clean. Thanks for all the advise.
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