Just found out today that my auto hubs on my 96 bronco have gone out. The dealership wants $550 to replace them and I was wondering if there is a more durable or cost effective way to fix the problem without downgrading to manual hubs. Also, can anyone explain how the automatic hubs work because I cant find anything in a chilton's or on the internet. I asked the service guy at the dealership and he couldnt give me a straight answer, personally I dont think he knew.

 

I think Warn also makes automatic hubs.

 

Guess what? I blew out the autos on my 96 last week too. I am going with the Warn Premiums manuals. Why dont you want to switch over to them? You can still activate them from the cab, so long as you have the hubs locked. The way I see it, if you think you are gonna run into trouble in your travel, just lock the hubs before you leave. Plus, with manual hubs, you can use low range in 2wd. $550?? are you kidding me? In my case, a set of warn premiums, with spindle conversion (for 3 bolt hubs) totals about $125, and from what I hear, anyone can change them over in about an hour. Just my two cents

 

I'd strongly sugguest manuals too. They're not going to wear out in 10 minutes like autos. Plus, they're a helluva lot cheaper to replace when they do go out. Plus as long as you lock them while your truck is warming up you can use them just like you would an automatic hub. It'll save you a lot of trouble and money down the road.

 

hey guys just replaced my auto hubs for manuels. it was easy. took about an hour and that was running in and out of the garage to get warmed up. i went with the $69.00 dollar warns. i didnt need conversion kit . autos were great but sometimes they didnt unlock. hopeing for a little better gas milage.

 

I too just replaced the autos. I opted for the Warn Premiums and haven't regretted it yet. The price difference wasn't that great, (got 'em for $79... I didn't need a conversion kit) and I figured I might as well do it right the first time. The switch would've only taken around an hour, but I ran into a little difficulting setting the float on the new hubs. I was actually making it harder than it had to be. After consulting one of the gurus at Ultimate 4x4, I got it figured out and up 'n running. Definitely one of the easiest projects I've done yet.

 

just wondering what problems you had with float? and also what was the resolution to your problems. i must have been lucky because i had a little float. i hope now i had enough float

 

Ok guys, just a question to add here....float? Only time I've ever dealt with a "float" is in a carburator.

 

To answer greysreak92's question, when you install the new hub body and the locking ring, you should be able to still move (float) the hub back and forth just a little (in and out). I too didn't know what signified "enough" float, that's why I called the guys at Ultimate4x4. Basically, you should just be able to see it move, that's about it. Mine barely moved at all, but it sounds like that's how it's supposed to be. Either way, they work absolutely perfectly, so I'm guessing it's okay.

 

Ok, thanks for the clarification.

 

I would consider it an upgrade to goto Warn Premium manuals from your shreaded auto hubs you are having to replace now. They will hold up, take a beating. And like someone mentioned. With manuals, you can run in 2WD if you want to Pros are more numerous then the cons , specially when considering performance, durability, and last but not least............ price.