Busy day today-just some basic maintenance...
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 12
From: SE Texas
Busy day today-just some basic maintenance...
Did some basic maintenance on the new (to us) Excursion today....
It's got 68K miles on it, and not knowing the maintenance history of the vehicle, I decided that it would be best to do pretty much everything before the road trip next weekend to Colorado. I started with an oil change-that was cake, nothing special there, although I did like the oil filter location. While I was under the front, I greased all of the zerks on the steering linkage. Noticed some dry rot cracked boots on a few pieces-those will need changed in the future, but they're intact for now. Checked the oil level in the front axle-full and clean as expected-no surprises there. Next was the fuel filter. Not bad-easier than I remember on the Navigator, and it was the original, so it needed changed. While I was in that area, I drained the transfer case and refilled it with Mobil 1 synthetic fluid. That was also fairly easy-much easier than I expected. I guess having the fuel tank in the rear frees up alot of room for accessing the transfer case. Next to the rear axle-like the front, it was full and the oil was clean.
Back to the front....spark plugs now. Nothing really difficult-took me about an hour for the entire job. 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 were all cake-super easy. 4 and 5 did kinda suck to get to-the rear heater hoses and evap hose were right in the way, but not impossible to get to by any means. There were a bit easier than the 3V in my F250 for access, I will say that. All of the plugs were the originals, as were the COP's. Plugs came out easy, none leaking or loose, wear was about where I expected for 68K miles-they all had .065-.070 gap. There's no way these would go 100K miles without a problem. Next was cleaning the MAF and changing the air filter. The MAF sensor wires were a bit dirty, but not as bad as I've seen. The air filter had been changed at some point, but was pretty crusty, so a new one went back in it's place. Next, power steering fluid flush or sorts. Pulled the return line from the bottom of the reservoir and dropped it down to drain into a pan. I capped the reservoir so I could keep it filled while the engine was running. I ran a gallon of fresh fluid through it after the old stuff came out, and then ran it empty. Put it all back together and filled it with Mobil 1 synthetic fluid (same stuff as the transfer case). Next a coolant flush-nothing special there, no surprises, all good. Front brakes next.....easier than a 2WD-no messy bearings to deal with. Took the rotors to be surfaced, still in spec and within the allowable limit afterward. New pads,and some clean synthetic slide-pin grease,and back together with all of that. Now no more rumbly front brakes.
All the exterior stuff is good for now-except for the trans fluid, but that'll get done Tuesday evening after the accumulator spring kit and line-mod valve show up.
On to the interior, and the non-functioning rear heater blend door motor. This was really easy too. Changed the actuator out and now it's working fine again.
Altogether, nothing bad, nothing really difficult, and now I know it's all done right and in good condition for the road trip. Just a bit of rambling about the day's work...
JL
It's got 68K miles on it, and not knowing the maintenance history of the vehicle, I decided that it would be best to do pretty much everything before the road trip next weekend to Colorado. I started with an oil change-that was cake, nothing special there, although I did like the oil filter location. While I was under the front, I greased all of the zerks on the steering linkage. Noticed some dry rot cracked boots on a few pieces-those will need changed in the future, but they're intact for now. Checked the oil level in the front axle-full and clean as expected-no surprises there. Next was the fuel filter. Not bad-easier than I remember on the Navigator, and it was the original, so it needed changed. While I was in that area, I drained the transfer case and refilled it with Mobil 1 synthetic fluid. That was also fairly easy-much easier than I expected. I guess having the fuel tank in the rear frees up alot of room for accessing the transfer case. Next to the rear axle-like the front, it was full and the oil was clean.
Back to the front....spark plugs now. Nothing really difficult-took me about an hour for the entire job. 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 were all cake-super easy. 4 and 5 did kinda suck to get to-the rear heater hoses and evap hose were right in the way, but not impossible to get to by any means. There were a bit easier than the 3V in my F250 for access, I will say that. All of the plugs were the originals, as were the COP's. Plugs came out easy, none leaking or loose, wear was about where I expected for 68K miles-they all had .065-.070 gap. There's no way these would go 100K miles without a problem. Next was cleaning the MAF and changing the air filter. The MAF sensor wires were a bit dirty, but not as bad as I've seen. The air filter had been changed at some point, but was pretty crusty, so a new one went back in it's place. Next, power steering fluid flush or sorts. Pulled the return line from the bottom of the reservoir and dropped it down to drain into a pan. I capped the reservoir so I could keep it filled while the engine was running. I ran a gallon of fresh fluid through it after the old stuff came out, and then ran it empty. Put it all back together and filled it with Mobil 1 synthetic fluid (same stuff as the transfer case). Next a coolant flush-nothing special there, no surprises, all good. Front brakes next.....easier than a 2WD-no messy bearings to deal with. Took the rotors to be surfaced, still in spec and within the allowable limit afterward. New pads,and some clean synthetic slide-pin grease,and back together with all of that. Now no more rumbly front brakes.
All the exterior stuff is good for now-except for the trans fluid, but that'll get done Tuesday evening after the accumulator spring kit and line-mod valve show up.
On to the interior, and the non-functioning rear heater blend door motor. This was really easy too. Changed the actuator out and now it's working fine again.
Altogether, nothing bad, nothing really difficult, and now I know it's all done right and in good condition for the road trip. Just a bit of rambling about the day's work...
JL
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 229
Likes: 2
From: MI
I need to do the same thing....new vehicle to me.....Gotta change oil, and probably differential fluid, tranny fluids, etc (maybe spark plugs, have to check them) Short of the brakes what did you have into it cost wise? I dont usually do it myself, it was easier to pay someone to do it....But im trying to learn/invest more into this truck..as I own it, and it isnt under warranty, so im responisble for all repairs from here out....
Its amazing what you can learn here.....I know how to change oil obviously, but I've learned how (and saved for future reference) to replace ball joints, actuators, and several other things...that I would have no idea how to do, and normally wouldnt even attempt....On that note, I have never greased the steering, before, when i add the grease, is it a sealed system, or will it show me that its full by overflowing by the grease zerks...
also, I know Motorcraft is or Mobil 1 is prefered oil for the v10, is Mobil 1 brand prefered for differentials and tranny??, or is there another brand that the tranny likes more than another..
Its amazing what you can learn here.....I know how to change oil obviously, but I've learned how (and saved for future reference) to replace ball joints, actuators, and several other things...that I would have no idea how to do, and normally wouldnt even attempt....On that note, I have never greased the steering, before, when i add the grease, is it a sealed system, or will it show me that its full by overflowing by the grease zerks...
also, I know Motorcraft is or Mobil 1 is prefered oil for the v10, is Mobil 1 brand prefered for differentials and tranny??, or is there another brand that the tranny likes more than another..
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 12
From: SE Texas
I need to do the same thing....new vehicle to me.....Gotta change oil, differential fluid, tranny fluids, etc (maybe spark plugs, have to check them) Short of the brakes what did you have into it cost wise? I dont usually do it myself, it was easier to pay someone to do it....But im trying to learn/invest more into this truck..as I own it, and it isnt under warranty, so im responisble for all repairs from here out....
Its amazing what you can learn here.....I know how to change oil obviously, but I've learned how (and saved) to replace ball joints, actuators, and several other things...that I would have no idea how to do, and normally wouldnt even attempt....On that note, I have never greased the steering, before, when i add the grease, is it a sealed system, or will it show me that its full by overflowing by the grease zerks...
also, I know Motorcraft is or Mobil 1 is prefered oil for the v10, is Mobil 1 brand prefered for differentials and tranny??, or is there another brand that the tranny likes more than another..
Its amazing what you can learn here.....I know how to change oil obviously, but I've learned how (and saved) to replace ball joints, actuators, and several other things...that I would have no idea how to do, and normally wouldnt even attempt....On that note, I have never greased the steering, before, when i add the grease, is it a sealed system, or will it show me that its full by overflowing by the grease zerks...
also, I know Motorcraft is or Mobil 1 is prefered oil for the v10, is Mobil 1 brand prefered for differentials and tranny??, or is there another brand that the tranny likes more than another..
Large tube of dielectric grease-$6
Nickel anti-seize-$5
Fuel filter-Fram G3850 $9
Oil and Filter-Motorcraft FL-820S, Valvoline 5w20 Synthetic 6Qts.-$25
Mobil 1 synthetic trans fluid-4 quarts-$33
Supertech Mercon-1 gallon-$10
Peak coolant and distilled water-$42
Rotor surfacing-$30
Front brake pads-$35
Rear brake pads- $25 (doing these this evening)
A/C actuator-already had it-it was a spare from the Navigator,and I just pulled the motor out of it to replace the bad motor in the Excursion actuator.
In the trans, I'll be using regular DexIII/Mercon-there's really not any need to go with an expensive synthetic in the trans.
JL
