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Generator restoration questions

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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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Generator restoration questions

I'm restoring the original, never-rebuilt, generator for my 1960 F-100. With the truck being 100% original (and nearly all parts original Ford), I can reference most parts for answers, but there are a few items I need verified for the restoration of my generator. I know the generator housing is semi-gloss black. Are the backing plate, front plate, and fan/pulley parts black as well? It looks like all three parts have slight traces of black paint, but it's hard to determine. Also, does anyone know where I can purchase the Ford 10044-A tool required to remove the field coil screws?

Lastly, the restoration parts catalogs list a generator warning decal (for radio suppressor connections to the field terminal), but there are no traces of such on my generator (which is an original part). The restoration catalogs list the decal as 55-64, some 56-64, and some 61-64. Has anyone seen this decal on a 1960 generator?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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The best reference is the part you have, I would look very hard at what you have before stripping the paint. I have seen the end plate a natural color and the front cast bracket as cast, but I don't recall where. I don't know about the radio supressor. Depending on how far your going to go, ford stamped the generator with paint when new, its just easier to buy a decal than a custom $250 stamp.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 11:42 PM
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I placed the original housing in my parts washer, which uses an industrial grade of Simple Green (paint safe). It appears the 50 years of grease and oil stripped all the paint. When removing the parts, the casing and front cover had traces of black paint. The rear plate had a little trace of black paint. It also appears Ford painted the generators after assembly, as the green plastic post bushings had black paint on the outside. The truck has been in the family since new, and I can confirm the generator is original to the truck. The front nut and washer appear to be zinc plated and the front pulley/fan possibly black.

The sticker I'm referring to is green, and would have been an actual sticker on the originals, but I can't confirm if the sticker should be on the 1960 generators. My truck originally did not have a factory radio (may be reason for no decal), but I'm installing all the factory original radio parts. If you happen to have any information on the paint stampings, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:00 AM
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Are you sure the generator you have is original? I'd be surprised, after all these years. Are you the original owner? There must be a restoration-oriented club (like Early Ford V8) for later Fords that could tell you what is correct.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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The truck has been in the family since new. When I inherited the truck, it had 115,000 miles and even had the original radiator hoses. Then engine has never been rebuilt, and still has the original clutch and brake shoes. In fact the rear drums still have the factory clips on the wheel studs to keep them from falling off while riding on the assembly line (which I kept installed). I've used the truck as a daily driver for seven years, accumulating 30,000 miles, including one trip from across the United States, from Maryland to California. The generator finally died (stuck brushes), but since the entire truck is coming apart this summer for a full frame-off restoration, I'm starting with the generator now.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 10:14 AM
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I have seen the round green tag on a factory ford authorized rebuilt flathead generator, but again it hard to say if they came factory like that.

I went digging this morning for some more info for you. I took the first three pictures right off of my 1960 Ford Factory filmstrip on generator rebuilding and starters. Although the pictures are from a 1960 223 powered sunliner, I would say the truck generators would be nearly identical.







The next photo, is from a 1960 ford truck filmstrip, although there is not enough of the generator to be of much help



This last photo is a factory pre-production photo from a 1961 ford truck Hard to see the generator as well



The pulley nut has a factory part number rather than a universal fastner number so know what finish is hard to say. I would pull the nut off and look at the backside where it rode up against the pulley. Shiney plating= Zinc while a dull silver= Cadmium

It appears that they were in fact painted all black. Take a look at the picture number three and pay close attention to the end brush plate with paint.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 10:47 AM
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Wow! Thanks for all the great information. Some of the restoration catalogs carry a sticker for the generators, like that in your picture, but none list them past 1957. I know the original would have been a stamp, not a sticker. As for the green sticker, mine must not have come with one, based on your statement and the fact there are no traces of such on my original case.

All the black paint has long flaked off, but usually there are traces of white stamping paint left behind. Is it possible certain plants stamp items differently? The reason I ask is in part due to an air cleaner sticker which is unlike any I have seen in the restoration catalogs or any other 1960 Ford vehicle. My air cleaner decal looks like all the reproductions, but has all the different timing settings (and recommended fuel grades) printed in the area where the repros state "For Service Instructions See Operator's Manual". My truck was built in San Jose, CA (at the Milpitas plant).

For the generator markings, what would be the correct white markings my generator should have on all sides? I'm considering the purchase of a home silk screening kit to recreate the various stamps and markings throughout the restoration.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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If you can't already tell, I'm going for a correct resto like yourself. As far as decals go, I would take what the repo catalogs information and disregard their year codes. They say the generator codes are good 1956-60 But if you look in a ford parts catalog, There are B9TF-10000-B and C0TF-10000-A as well as a few more identification #'s for 1960 30 amp ford truck generators with the 292. Unless you see any traces of the original, I would pick one and use it as nobody will be able to prove you wrong.

I read some concours mustang resto sites, and its very obvious according to the experts that there is a ton of differences between plants. Bolt finishes, paint, chassis paint markings and others probably had variations, so there is no correct answer for everything. As far as generators go, I doubt every truck plant(half dozen) assembled generators and stamped them. I'm guessing they probably came from one plant stamped and ready to bolt on.

As for your generator, a safe bet would be just the stamp picture in my first two photos, using a correct truck prefix rather than C0AF(which can be found in the parts and accessories catalog) and call it good.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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I'm thinking the same thing. I'll see if I can obtain an original print of the decal, scan and print it, then silk screen the image onto the case.

One last question (for now). Do you know the gloss percentage of the black paint used on the generator, starter, and other engine parts? Most manufacturers use a 10-20% gloss black, but I'm not sure what Ford used.

If I remember correctly, you were the same individual who sent me a factory speaker hole template and original instructions some time back. If you have any digital documents, pictures, etc. which would be of use during the restoration, they would be greatly appreciated. If you're interested in a file swap, I have some scanned original documents of 1960 Ford truck factory options, etc. if you're interested.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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Regarding gloss, I don't know of actual % that ford used. Here is a NOS oil filter canister with two photos as you can see, it has quite a bit of gloss.

Other than the radiator, Ford appeared to use a medium gloss paint for under hood/chassis. Although you should not be able to see your self in them, a too shiny appearance is better than a flat one.

The best match to date is rustoleum gloss black. Initially sprayed has alot of gloss, but after a year or so fades to the perfect shade of gloss that matches anything NOS I own.

As for data and info, I'm always collecting info and have a few questions regarding you original chassis. I'll send you a PM in a bit.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 11:14 PM
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Thanks for the filter canister pictures. I'm going to take the pictures with me to the paint shop. I'm having everything powder coated for long-term durability. The shop I'm using can match any black gloss level to my needs. They even have a 35-foot oven, which I will employ full use of when the frame goes out for powder coat.

Although I wasn't able to locate the special Ford 10044-A generator pole screw tool, a machinist friend of my is manufacturing a tool nearly identical for me to use on the generator and the starter screws.
 
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