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Notes from the Tune-Up

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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #1  
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Post Notes from the Tune-Up

I've been reading this forum quite a bit lately as I prepped for the tune-up on my 2002 Ranger XLT w/ 2.3L 4cyl DOHC, 5-speed with 145,000 miles.

I'd like to thank everyone who contributes to these forums -- it's made my job a lot easier and instilled a bit of confidence. I used to work on my '79 Mustang all the time, but I haven't had to do very much on the more recent vehicles.

First, an oil change. Nothing special there, but a thin coating of oil on one side of the tranny, where it mates to the engine, caused a "hmm". I brought a flashlight under the truck and shone it up into the engine compartment and I can see a small amount of oil on a foil-coated insulation pad. It appears there's a drip-point on the exhaust manifold, too. And just above that, I can see a bit more oil on what appears to be a handle of some sort attached to the top of the engine, back near the firewall. On that handle's bracket there's a fair accumulation of oil.

Q: what's that handle, and if there's oil on its bracket, where's it coming from?

Next, fuel filter. I've seen mention of lots of different connections, and even the Chilton manual suggests I need a scissor-type tool. No problem. Went and got one and discovered it was completely unnecessary for this job. Turns out the connectors use push-button style clips.

To release: push the line toward the filter, press the clip into the line and pull the line off the filter. So there's another one for the record books. ;-)

Next, spark plugs and wires. Oh, wait... had to order those thru Advance Auto and they'll be in the store tomorrow. They're the only guys around here who carry Motorcraft plugs and wires -- out of four national chains. Weird.

I have the proper socket, a torque wrench and the dielectric goo. Oh, and canned air to blow any junk out of the pockets, though the wire ends are embedded in the engine like corks.

If anyone has tips on that, I'd be most appreciative.

Other stuff to do: clean the MAF sensor and consider changing the oxygen sensors. I looked for a PVC valve, but it appears there isn't an external one. Hmm.

Back tomorrow with an update.

Steve
 
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 05:58 AM
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Your oil leak sounds like it might be coming from valve cover gasket. It's a pain to replace because intake manifold and all the surrounding plumbing has to be removed to do it. Might want to check the nuts that hold it down are at proper torque. There is a pcv valve buried somewhere but can't remember where. Maybe someone can chime in on it's location on the Duratech 2.3. Did you replace air filter? What about a coolant flush/refill if it's the original. Other than that you should be good to go.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Steve,
You didn't mention anything about transmission fluid or differential fluid changes.
If it's been over 30K miles since they were last changed, then I'd suggest you change both of them again.

Personally, if you don't see any Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated, I wouldn't worry about changing the oxygen sensor yet.
They aren't cheap (around $60-80) so if it is still working good (no CEL), I'd leave it alone.

A few other suggestions: Remove each wheel and inspect the brake system pads/shoes and retaining springs. I'd bleed the brakes at all four corners...if your Ranger has ABS, it may require non-typical bleeding procedures. Inspect the grease seals located at the back side of the front rotors and the axle seals at the rears. Rotate the tires while you're at it. Grease any suspension joints and U-joints. Check the fluid level in the clutch slave cylinder.

Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
 
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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Notes from the Tune-Up - Lessons Learned!!

All right... got the plugs and wires installed, and they were pretty well worn. Gap on all was crazy -- how the heck was this thing running??

However, I had a major "OH, FUDGE!" moment when I pulled plug #2 -- the thing came out of the cavity covered in oil!! Peering down into the cavity and cylinder there's just oil everywhere -- including IN the cylinder. Bother.

So I put that plug back to keep debris out of the cylinder while I inspected the cavity for plug #3 before pulling the plug. Darn it, I couldn't even see the socket grip section of the plug. I used paper towels and rags to soak up most of the oil, then duct taped a straw to the crevice tool on my shop vac and sucked the rest of the oil out.

New plug in and back to #2, where I sucked the oil off the top of the piston with the vacuum. I taped another straw to the first, with the bendy end down and trimmed and managed to get most of the oil out. There was no big plume of blue smoke when I started it!

Also cleaned the MAF and changed the air filter.

It runs noticeably better, but... it's still not right. For that, I need a new thread.

Steve
 
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BarnieTrk
Steve,
You didn't mention anything about transmission fluid or differential fluid changes.
If it's been over 30K miles since they were last changed, then I'd suggest you change both of them again.

A few other suggestions: Remove each wheel and inspect the brake system pads/shoes and retaining springs. I'd bleed the brakes at all four corners... Inspect the grease seals located at the back side of the front rotors and the axle seals at the rears. Rotate the tires while you're at it. Grease any suspension joints and U-joints. Check the fluid level in the clutch slave cylinder.

Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
Thanks, Barnie.

The tranny and diff will have to wait for another day. The brakes were completely redone not too long ago, and I'm pretty easy on them. The previous set lasted a LONG time.

Greasing the joints needs to be done for sure, though. And I think I have to bleed the clutch fluid... but that's another thread...

Steve
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 03:36 AM
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The most likely cause of oil in the spark plug wells is the inner valve cover gasket. There is a small inner gasket in addition to the usual one around the perimeter. For your rough running might want to do a compression test to verify it is up to specs.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 06:59 AM
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BarnieTrk
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Originally Posted by RangerSteve
The tranny and diff will have to wait for another day.
Greasing the joints needs to be done for sure.....
Why do I get the impression that the 30K mile mark came and left a LONG TIME AGO already?
I wouldn't put off these fluid-changing and joint-greasing preventative maintenance tasks too long.
Their physical removal & repair, down time and costs far exceed their periodic lubrication maintenance investment....
--- Good Luck!
BarnieTrk
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 08:11 AM
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Well, it wasn't THAT long ago. 102k miles, and I'm now at 145k.

On the rough running issue: it behaved much better this morning, but still not perfect. It's mostly in 4th and 5th gears, when accelerating in the 1500-2500 rpm range.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 09:03 AM
  #9  
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BarnieTrk
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From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
Originally Posted by RangerSteve
Well, it wasn't THAT long ago. 102k miles, and I'm now at 145k.

LOL..... ok, that's good to know!

On the rough running issue: it behaved much better this morning, but still not perfect. It's mostly in 4th and 5th gears, when accelerating in the 1500-2500 rpm range.

Do you think the rough running is an electrical issue or a fuel issue?

Maybe just some moisture in your fuel?
High humidity and lower temps will cause moisture to condensate in your fuel tank or the tank at your friendly gas station....eventhough you just changed the fuel filter, it doesn't take much water to mess up the works....
I'd say it's likely that the computer needs to go through a few start/run/stop cycles to re-familiarize itself with the signal it's now getting from the freshly-cleaned MAF.
I'd give it a few start/run/stop cycles before I'd get too excited about the rough running just yet......

Keep us posted on your progress,
BarnieTrk
 
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