AUTO HUB PROBLEM
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
AUTO HUB PROBLEM
Ok, I am new to the forum and Ford trucks. I have always had GM vehicles. Anyway I bought a 2000 Ford F-250 with 47k miles last January. When I bought it the auto 4X4 would not engage. It didnt take long to see that the vacuum lines going to the hubs were dry rotted. I replaced the lines and everything worked fine....for a while. About two months ago, I am going down the road, hit a bump and the drivers side hub starts grinding. Well it does this often and when I hit another bump or the slow down almost to a stop the grinding will stop. I am assuming I am losing vacuum and the hub is trying to engage. Anyone else had this problem? I have read on the forum some people have had problems with there hubs but not the same exact problem. I have replaced one hub @ $300 and the o-rings on both sides and it is still happening. My mechanic suggests changing to maual but I would rather hang on to the auto if there is an easy fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Welcome to FTE!
There's no easy fix for these hubs and there are no adjustments. Sometimes it's better to get manual hubs and get away from the autos depending on your off-road habits. It's nice just to turn a switch and have that capability, but those particular hubs are not always reliable unless the owner has engaged them regularly over the years.
There's no easy fix for these hubs and there are no adjustments. Sometimes it's better to get manual hubs and get away from the autos depending on your off-road habits. It's nice just to turn a switch and have that capability, but those particular hubs are not always reliable unless the owner has engaged them regularly over the years.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Taylors, SC
I decided not to repair the automatic vacuum operated hubs on mine. I know there are plenty of smarter people here that have and say it works great, but I never could get a warm fuzzy about it. So I changed them out to the Mile Marker Stainless Steel hubs and have not given it a second thought. It was easy. This way when I lock them, I know they are locked. Equally important, when I unlock them, I know they are unlocked.
Trailering
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
Are you in 4wd or 2wd when the noise occurs? Reading your post, it sounds like you're in 2wd. If that is the case, I don't believe your problem is with the locking hub. It sounds like a problem with the axle shaft needle bearing on the inside of the wheel bearing hub.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 410
Likes: 6
From: SE / NWL MI
Welcome to the forum Sakison.
I had a '92 F350 that did the same thing, auto hubs with manual 4x at that time, no shift on the fly. And it was the drivers side also. I pulled the auto hubs off and went to manual, an easy swap. That experience influenced my '00 buy, and opting for manual hubs from the get go. There is a similar discussion going on in this current thread, you might be able to glean some info here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...y-unhappy.html
Good luck which ever route you take.
I had a '92 F350 that did the same thing, auto hubs with manual 4x at that time, no shift on the fly. And it was the drivers side also. I pulled the auto hubs off and went to manual, an easy swap. That experience influenced my '00 buy, and opting for manual hubs from the get go. There is a similar discussion going on in this current thread, you might be able to glean some info here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...y-unhappy.html
Good luck which ever route you take.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 784
Likes: 1
From: White Rock BC Canaduh
I'd guess bearing also.
If it does turn out to be the bearing at least you can get it all fixed up in one shot. Bearing, seals and good cleaning and greasing.
Rick...
If it does turn out to be the bearing at least you can get it all fixed up in one shot. Bearing, seals and good cleaning and greasing.
Rick...
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 0
From: Auburn, Wa
I would also go Manual hubs I didnt bother with thinking about the autos when I learned of all the troubles guys have with them.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I am in 2WD traveling down the highway. What gets me is that it stops if I hit a pot hole. Slow down, or shift the 4wd selector to 4H and back to 2H real quick.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 1
From: Canton, IL
Thats vacuum related, if you turn the **** and it stops, you have one of three things gone wrong.
1, the Vacuum solenoid for the 4wd is not working properly. On f150's the valve quits if it ingested any water.
2. Vacuum lines are cracked, broke or unplugged somewhere. This is a very likely cause. The hubs are enagaged when there is no vacuum. Jack up one front tire of your truck up and with the engine running and in 2wd, turn it and see if the front driveshaft turns. If it does, the hub is engaged in 2wd. if not, then you are probably getting partial disengagement (grinding) from a low vacuum condition.
3, If you verify that vacuum is present and it is over 10in measured vacuum, you probably have bad diaphragms in the auto hubs. You can test them with a vacuum pump and guage. engine off, pull vacuum on the hub, you should be able to hear it engage and disengage, (get close to it, it's not loud.) If you can't pull vacuum, you have a bad hub.
Also, there are check valves in the vacuum lines running from the vacuum source to the vacuum solenoid. Check these by mouth, if air only goes one direction. your good, if not, replace them with the HELP brand vacuum check valves at your parts store. ( I had to get mine from O'Reillys, autozone quit carring them) There are TWO check valves in the system.
Hope this helps.
1, the Vacuum solenoid for the 4wd is not working properly. On f150's the valve quits if it ingested any water.
2. Vacuum lines are cracked, broke or unplugged somewhere. This is a very likely cause. The hubs are enagaged when there is no vacuum. Jack up one front tire of your truck up and with the engine running and in 2wd, turn it and see if the front driveshaft turns. If it does, the hub is engaged in 2wd. if not, then you are probably getting partial disengagement (grinding) from a low vacuum condition.
3, If you verify that vacuum is present and it is over 10in measured vacuum, you probably have bad diaphragms in the auto hubs. You can test them with a vacuum pump and guage. engine off, pull vacuum on the hub, you should be able to hear it engage and disengage, (get close to it, it's not loud.) If you can't pull vacuum, you have a bad hub.
Also, there are check valves in the vacuum lines running from the vacuum source to the vacuum solenoid. Check these by mouth, if air only goes one direction. your good, if not, replace them with the HELP brand vacuum check valves at your parts store. ( I had to get mine from O'Reillys, autozone quit carring them) There are TWO check valves in the system.
Hope this helps.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Hitting a bump and getting a grinding noise or vibration is a classic sign of a dry/shot inner spindle bearing (needle bearing).
With the wheels straight ahead, reach around back of the wheel and turn the axle u-joint by hand. It should be somewhat hard to get started, but once moving, be smooth and not gritty or ratchety.
I bet you have a bad needle bearing. FIX IT before it takes out the axle stub.
For the time being, you can manually lock the hubs and drive it like that. With the hubs locked, the needle bearing is NOT moving in relation to the axle stub so it won't cause further damage.
New User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I have the same thing going on with my 01 350, been driving in 4x4 for about 3 months, I already bought the new hub/bearing and manual hubs but havent had time to do the job.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 745
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
It is my understanding that this is not true. The hubs are both engaged and disengaged by vaccum pulses. Think of it like one of those click-style disposable pens. Click once to engage, click again to dis-engage.
+1 on the needle bearings... engaging 4x4 could cause the sound to go away because the hub would then be turning with the axel shaft, so the needle bearings would not be grinding anymore. EDIT: half way through my post i had to walk away for a few minutes and Krewat beat me to it!
+1 on the needle bearings... engaging 4x4 could cause the sound to go away because the hub would then be turning with the axel shaft, so the needle bearings would not be grinding anymore. EDIT: half way through my post i had to walk away for a few minutes and Krewat beat me to it!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 784
Likes: 1
From: White Rock BC Canaduh
Krewat,
Besides the grinding/vibration,,, can this cause a delayed squeek?
Driving lets say 10 to 15mph in chilly/damp air condinditions after being parked for a while?
A not very loud, but a longer sqeeeeeek 3,,,2,,,1 sqeeeeeek 3,,,2,,,1,,, etc,,, then it stops sqeeking after only a few minutes of driving? (warming up a little)
I know that sound strange, but I'm fairly convinced it's the bearing causing this.
I did not know that. Very good to know. Thanks for the headsup!
I'll try the "turn the axle u-joint by hand" test also when I have a chance.
Rick...
Driving lets say 10 to 15mph in chilly/damp air condinditions after being parked for a while?
A not very loud, but a longer sqeeeeeek 3,,,2,,,1 sqeeeeeek 3,,,2,,,1,,, etc,,, then it stops sqeeking after only a few minutes of driving? (warming up a little)
I know that sound strange, but I'm fairly convinced it's the bearing causing this.
I'll try the "turn the axle u-joint by hand" test also when I have a chance.
Rick...