Hello and E4OD Help
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 76
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From: Austin
Hello and E4OD Help
Hi. Glad I found FTE because it seems busier than that other site I had been hanging around on.
My truck: 1993 F-150, 4X4, 5.8L, E4OD, longbed, slight suspension lift. This is my problem...
The truck is a recent purchase with the PO claiming engine and trans rebuild 30K ago, including hi-comp pistons, hi-vol oil pump, etc. No paperwork to show for all of this, but I do believe him. On the way home from picking it up (long drive, highway 75mph, cruise on, OD on) I had a sudden loss of power. Looked down at the gauges and the temp was about 7/8 and the MIL came on. Cruise didn't let go until the truck slowed to about 45.
So I pull to side of the highway, smack it into neutral and the temp comes back down immediately and the MIL goes back off - in other words back to normal operation (but with a new, slight tick coming from the engine).
Back on the road five minutes or so later - same thing, but I didn't have the CC on. This time, I pulled over and the tick became a knock. I decided to limp the remaining 5 hours home, but I did it without the OD on, which seemed to cause the problem.
The symptoms seemed like/as if the trans or driveline bound up and the TCC didn't unlock from the flywheel (and since I didn't use the brakes, the CC didn't disconnect either), causing serious detonation and damaging the engine, which has now been rebuilt and I saw the pistons - 5 broken on top, etc.
Trans fluid is burnt, but not low. I haven't dropped the pan yet, but is this a common occurrence? Could the trans stay locked to the engine enough to do damage? I know I need to drop the pan and see if there's a bunch of crap in there (steels and clutch material) and I'll likely do a full fluid change. What could have caused this? One more thing: front hubs were locked (don't know why - again, PO...), but not the T-case, so that didn't affect anything.
Second question: since I'd like to put in a shift kit when I open it up, will I be able to tell from just looking at the valve body if there's a S/K installed?
Last thing: if anyone in the SoCal area has a good E4OD (4X4) or a good source for one, I'm interested.
My truck: 1993 F-150, 4X4, 5.8L, E4OD, longbed, slight suspension lift. This is my problem...
The truck is a recent purchase with the PO claiming engine and trans rebuild 30K ago, including hi-comp pistons, hi-vol oil pump, etc. No paperwork to show for all of this, but I do believe him. On the way home from picking it up (long drive, highway 75mph, cruise on, OD on) I had a sudden loss of power. Looked down at the gauges and the temp was about 7/8 and the MIL came on. Cruise didn't let go until the truck slowed to about 45.
So I pull to side of the highway, smack it into neutral and the temp comes back down immediately and the MIL goes back off - in other words back to normal operation (but with a new, slight tick coming from the engine).
Back on the road five minutes or so later - same thing, but I didn't have the CC on. This time, I pulled over and the tick became a knock. I decided to limp the remaining 5 hours home, but I did it without the OD on, which seemed to cause the problem.
The symptoms seemed like/as if the trans or driveline bound up and the TCC didn't unlock from the flywheel (and since I didn't use the brakes, the CC didn't disconnect either), causing serious detonation and damaging the engine, which has now been rebuilt and I saw the pistons - 5 broken on top, etc.
Trans fluid is burnt, but not low. I haven't dropped the pan yet, but is this a common occurrence? Could the trans stay locked to the engine enough to do damage? I know I need to drop the pan and see if there's a bunch of crap in there (steels and clutch material) and I'll likely do a full fluid change. What could have caused this? One more thing: front hubs were locked (don't know why - again, PO...), but not the T-case, so that didn't affect anything.
Second question: since I'd like to put in a shift kit when I open it up, will I be able to tell from just looking at the valve body if there's a S/K installed?
Last thing: if anyone in the SoCal area has a good E4OD (4X4) or a good source for one, I'm interested.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
Likes: 10
Not an expert but my thoughts are these. I can think of no way the torque staying locked on the highway could cause the problem. It`s like saying that with a manual you did not depress the clutch pedal while driving.
What did the codes say?
Good idea to drop the trans pan and have a look, need to do that anyway to change the discolored fluid. Drain the torque at the same time.
What did the codes say?
Good idea to drop the trans pan and have a look, need to do that anyway to change the discolored fluid. Drain the torque at the same time.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
Likes: 1,753
From: Kentucky
Not an expert but my thoughts are these. I can think of no way the torque staying locked on the highway could cause the problem. It`s like saying that with a manual you did not depress the clutch pedal while driving.
What did the codes say?
Good idea to drop the trans pan and have a look, need to do that anyway to change the discolored fluid. Drain the torque at the same time.
What did the codes say?
Good idea to drop the trans pan and have a look, need to do that anyway to change the discolored fluid. Drain the torque at the same time.
How to tell if a shift kit is installed? Not really sure on an E4OD. I would purchase a valvebody from thePunisher. Topnotch, quality parts by someone who stands behind their products.
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