Ok, this whole problem started on a cold morning when I got up to make a drive to the local ski resort. Cruising along in my F-100 and I look down and noticed my gauge is on the wrong side of TEMP. So I pull over at the 7-11 let it cool which was easy because it was below freezing. At first I thought antifreeze was bad and I froze up. After I got the cap off I decided against the idea because most of the antifreeze was nearly gone. Where? Out the exhaust because it didn’t boil over. I replaced the weak radiator cap a week before and it was full of liquid. So to answer the head questions, yes, antifreeze in the oil. Also, at the same time it is now blowing oil out of the dipstick.

So in theory I have blown a head gasket. The pcv valve was also possibly bad, but not noticeable because I had no significant pressure differential in the crank case. Head gasket pops and now I have oil going everywhere.
This engine has had a few intake manifold gaskets replaced It seems to be a chronic problem more than most FE’s. My guess is someone milled the cylinder head surface and not the intake. It used oil anyways so it has other wear issues I am sure. So I am going to pulled the engine because I am not going to be humped over replacing the heavy intake again along with heads.

This is where it gets interesting and I need some thoughts besides mine. I have a few trucks for parts and extra engines lying around.

So engine #1 is the 360 2bbl that was in the truck with either a cracked head or head gasket. Runs but fine less the aforementioned problems.

Engine #2 is in a ‘72 2wd F250. It runs, with a leaky rear main and the engine is still in a half parted out truck. CID unconfirmed. I plan to measure it tonight. I am 95% that it is a 360 also.

Engine #3 was one I purchased on a local classified ad for $250. It was supposed to be a 390, has an Edelbrock Performer 390 intake, K&N air, Holley 4bbl carb headers. I got it home and thought to check the CID. It measured 3.5" with my dowel. ****! It had some leaky gaskets on the intake and I figured while I was there and it was on the engine stand I would investigate it further. Replace the gaskets and know exactly what I am putting in the truck. Engine appears to be pretty fresh rebuild. Rod beaing are perfect, main thrust bearing is showing a ‘hint’ of copper on the thrust sides, but perfect where the crank actually rides. Cylinders piston are stamped 30 over. For the most part you can’t hang a finger on the cylinder wall where the ring grove is. Nothing a quick hone could not fix. This was a running engine with intake and oil pan leaks. The issue is the heads. A few of exhaust valve (s) are pretty deep in. My buddy at the head shop says he can’t put in new seats because it is too close to the water. He had a new set for a 4bbl basically new set with hardened seats for $500 (no core)

Engine #4 is a FE block with unconfirmed status. Took it as trade for bailing my cousin out of jail. Looks to be a factory engine by the appearance of the gaskets. 360 stickers.

My problem is I thought I had a hopped up 390. Do I need one in my farm truck? Probably not, but I am burned that I pissed away $250 thinking I was getting the 390 rods and crank that I wanted with engine #3 when I probably have the same quality of crank, rods, block, ect. in other engines. I guess I did get some aftermarket parts as the consolation prize with the intake, carb, and headers. Although I alredy have aHolly 4bbl and a cast 4 bbl intake.

What really bugs me is I ordered a new cam and lifter kit from Summit Racing, CCA-K33-224-3, to put in my 390.

I guess my ambition and enjoyment of working on old Ford engines is taking the eye from my prize. Getting a running FE block back in the farm truck.

Why not do the oil hole mods while I am this far into engine #3 also right? Good bearings, and the cylinder walls are relativly fresh. I am probably wating good money on new parts.

I guess I need to investigate engine #1 and confirm if it is a cracked head or gasket.

Should also measure the stoke on engine #2 & #4 and see where I am at there. But I am pretty sure more 360s

Put it back together as is and run #3 as-is and sell the extra parts?

Decision hell. How much am I leaving on the table by using the 360?

I have a 77 F250 wit h a 429 soon to be 460. Do I need to remind myself that I have the ponies elsewhere. Plug the 360 back in the F100 and call it a day. Sorry, my grandpa is dead now and I have no FE buddies to talk my thoughts through. Maybe it is because this is my grandpa’s F100?

Thanks for listening to me ramble. Your thoughts are welcomed.

 

Man, You are like Obama, so much sheet to deal with, and can't make anything work.




John

 

Can't even talk about rebuilding and engine without someone offering no advice and thinks that politics is a relevant metaphor . . .

 

Maybe, but he is right. BTW the only one that can really decide what to do is YOU. So bite the bullet and do what you want to do an quit asking questions that have no definitive answer.

 

Let me say it in less words then. I have never rebuilt any FE blocks only 385. I am trying to determine the 390 upgrade in a 4x4 truck is worth the effort given I am swimming in usable 360 components.

Has anyone actually penciled it out and said ya, the 360/390 swap = more torque or hp?

 

After reading your long post, I saw several replys, but with no better info none that would turn into good advice.

FEs usually don't have rear main issues, but do have intake back side leaks making one think so.

I'd do more investigating the existing engine. but what do I know?

As for you last post, a 390 is much better than a 360, everyday.



John

 

Rave on all you want there is always someone interested.I replaced my 360 with a 352 and like it much better since it is mostly a grocery getter.

 

Measure the stroke in all of your engines, you may get lucky. MY 2 barrel FE that should have been a 360 turned out to have 3.75" stroke.

 

if money is an issue , #3 is your engine justify the $250 spent with price of carb and intake right there you have $150 value so you only really paid $100 for the block/heads