February B/S thread
I'm really surprised your alternator is going out this early in the life of the truck though. As far as I know I'm still on my factory alternator.
The batteries are only a year old, they put new ones in when I had the head HG done.
I did hit it with a multimeter and it is only putting out 12.8 to 13.2 amps so it is shot.
The newer alternators are a POS and sized just big enough.
Then when you add lights, sub with amp, Airdog fuel pump, ect. you over work them.
Looks like I need a new alternator for the truck.
The old one is week and I'm needing to charge my batteries every few days or the truck starts REAL slow.
This is the one I'm looking at
1999- Ford 7.3L, 6.0L, 6.4L, 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel Heavy Duty 6G Series 200 Amp Alternator Upgrade
Nice find, I've been on & off thinking about upgrading my alternator and batteries too.
I think your guy has a nice price too, I had always eyed the West Marine HO alternators, though I don't know if any cross-over to a Ford diesel.
My batteries are the originals from Autumn 2005 when my van rolled off the assembly line.
I had a bad experience with a high-output alternator for my old Blazer, thought it might have been partly my fault too.
That alternator used the original case size and was wired to a Ford? external voltage regulator in order to make room for the increased windings.
When I received the alternator, it seemed that the OEM bell-housing screws were loose, so I tightened them.
Many thousands of miles later while coming back from New York, I stopped at the factory outlets off the Mass Pike. When I got out of the Blazer I could smell 'heat' (like an electric burner of a stove).
I popped the hood and was looking around / carefully feeling around for what could be so dang hot.
I found that the lower two screws of the HO alternator had sheared, so my armature was now grinding against the stator. Cracked egg effect.
I drove back to my home which used to be over by the casinos.
I made it home, though I was wondering if the Blazer was going to erupt in flames.
I put in the OEM alternator, and sent the HO back with a note mentioning that for the price I paid for it, one would think he would have assembled the case with cap-screws. He took note and it came back that way.
I was using a boating application extended reach Balmar adjustment arm because, with the smaller pulley diameter on the HO alternator, I couldn't get sufficient tension in the belt. I don't recall why I didn't go with a shorter belt (maybe I just didn't want to go with a non-stock belt, or the next size smaller was too small).
One day under the hood I happened to notice that somewhere along the line the alternator adjustment bracket snapped. I was lucky in that the HO alternator didn't shift much and I still had sufficient tension on the belts for all the other accessories in the loop to function.
I think with that second failure I just called it quits, I still have that alternator and its voltage regular 'sitting on a shelf.' I remember having to change pulleys on the HO alternator, but I forget why I had too. (I think the HO came with a V-belt pulley and I had to run a multi-groove, but had to return it with the v-belt pulley.) It was a pain having to swap pulleys between the alternators as I didn't have an impact gun, I managed as I have a set of those sockets for all thread, or was it a spark plug socket with the external hex, anyways and then a long hex key down through into the shaft..
My ol' HO alternator didn't come with an rpm connection / modular plug to accept the truck's wiring harness, partly because (iirc) I had to use the external voltage regulator. I asked the guy about that and (iirc) he said that due to the smaller diameter pulley that assists the alternator in generating its rated output that the tach signal would be too fast and that I couldn't adjust the tach for it. It became a no-never-mind as the Blazer didn't come stock with a tach in the instrument cluster and (iirc) the tach manufactures seemed to support him in that their tach were only scalable for ignition systems and not alternators.
What I should have done was to go to the dealership and get a mating connector and crimp a butt-splicel onto it to attach the regulator leads for the idiot light. I instead cut the connector off figuring I'll never need that again and butt-splice to the idiot-light lead. At least I saved the connector which saved me when I put the OEM alternator back into the Blazer.
Today in reflecting back on that smaller pulley diameter (and it seems that the one you are looking at has a smaller pulley too), I wonder how well a HO alternator would hold up to a chipped engine where the RPM limiter has been bumped up?
Please keep us posted, I'd like to know how cleanly the install goes.
I used to keep the OEM alternator (and take-off items ) with me after the HO cracked its case figuring I'd be stranded without it should the HO alternator fail again on me.
Nice find, I've been on & off thinking about upgrading my alternator and batteries too.
I think your guy has a nice price too, I had always eyed the West Marine HO alternators, though I don't know if any cross-over to a Ford diesel.
My batteries are the originals from Autumn 2005 when my van rolled off the assembly line.
I had a bad experience with a high-output alternator for my old Blazer, thought it might have been partly my fault too.
That alternator used the original case size and was wired to a Ford? external voltage regulator in order to make room for the increased windings.
When I received the alternator, it seemed that the OEM bell-housing screws were loose, so I tightened them.
Many thousands of miles later while coming back from New York, I stopped at the factory outlets off the Mass Pike. When I got out of the Blazer I could smell 'heat' (like an electric burner of a stove).
I popped the hood and was looking around / carefully feeling around for what could be so dang hot.
I found that the lower two screws of the HO alternator had sheared, so my armature was now grinding against the stator. Cracked egg effect.
I drove back to my home which used to be over by the casinos.
I made it home, though I was wondering if the Blazer was going to erupt in flames.
I put in the OEM alternator, and sent the HO back with a note mentioning that for the price I paid for it, one would think he would have assembled the case with cap-screws. He took note and it came back that way.
I was using a boating application extended reach Balmar adjustment arm because, with the smaller pulley diameter on the HO alternator, I couldn't get sufficient tension in the belt. I don't recall why I didn't go with a shorter belt (maybe I just didn't want to go with a non-stock belt, or the next size smaller was too small).
One day under the hood I happened to notice that somewhere along the line the alternator adjustment bracket snapped. I was lucky in that the HO alternator didn't shift much and I still had sufficient tension on the belts for all the other accessories in the loop to function.
I think with that second failure I just called it quits, I still have that alternator and its voltage regular 'sitting on a shelf.' I remember having to change pulleys on the HO alternator, but I forget why I had too. (I think the HO came with a V-belt pulley and I had to run a multi-groove, but had to return it with the v-belt pulley.) It was a pain having to swap pulleys between the alternators as I didn't have an impact gun, I managed as I have a set of those sockets for all thread, or was it a spark plug socket with the external hex, anyways and then a long hex key down through into the shaft..
My ol' HO alternator didn't come with an rpm connection / modular plug to accept the truck's wiring harness, partly because (iirc) I had to use the external voltage regulator. I asked the guy about that and (iirc) he said that due to the smaller diameter pulley that assists the alternator in generating its rated output that the tach signal would be too fast and that I couldn't adjust the tach for it. It became a no-never-mind as the Blazer didn't come stock with a tach in the instrument cluster and (iirc) the tach manufactures seemed to support him in that their tach were only scalable for ignition systems and not alternators.
What I should have done was to go to the dealership and get a mating connector and crimp a butt-splicel onto it to attach the regulator leads for the idiot light. I instead cut the connector off figuring I'll never need that again and butt-splice to the idiot-light lead. At least I saved the connector which saved me when I put the OEM alternator back into the Blazer.
Today in reflecting back on that smaller pulley diameter (and it seems that the one you are looking at has a smaller pulley too), I wonder how well a HO alternator would hold up to a chipped engine where the RPM limiter has been bumped up?
Please keep us posted, I'd like to know how cleanly the install goes.
I used to keep the OEM alternator (and take-off items ) with me after the HO cracked its case figuring I'd be stranded without it should the HO alternator fail again on me.
It is a direct bolt on, the only thing I will need to do is add a 2nd cable to the battery and one over to the 2nd battery to handle the extra power.
My truck is set to shift at 3800 rpm at WOT and the new alternator says it is good to 10,000 rpm so it should be fine.
My truck is set to shift at 3800 rpm at WOT and the new alternator says it is good to 10,000 rpm so it should be fine.
Andy, is that 10,000 Alternator RPMs or engine RPM's?
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

There is subdivision of recent above me, and when it went in, a right of way on their side follows the property line between 'them' and the old area I live in.
That right of way carries the main septic sewer for the houses above me and now, in places, looks like an over grown bulldozer trail.
Where the trail crosses the vernal creek it somewhat elevated the gully and left a rim at the edge of the blade, which then formed a shallow pool with a spillway.
At best I have about 16 feet of total head, and not enough volume for low-head micro-hydro.
I figured I could draw off water for a yard fountain we have (no need now for a pump), and for misting the condenser for the whole-house AC which might save me a few $s (efficiency boost).
Revealing a barbecue and liqueur cabinet for a GTG.
Could probably fit a small keg into one of the lower compartments.










Eh guys