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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 02:57 PM
  #616  
Nice Work Truck's Avatar
Nice Work Truck
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From: CT
Originally Posted by 7.3 Rocket
If he is switching batteries and still having the same result then yes. The easy way to make sure it's the alternator is to whip out the multimeter and get checking.

I'm really surprised your alternator is going out this early in the life of the truck though. As far as I know I'm still on my factory alternator.

The batteries are only a year old, they put new ones in when I had the head HG done.
I did hit it with a multimeter and it is only putting out 12.8 to 13.2 amps so it is shot.
The newer alternators are a POS and sized just big enough.
Then when you add lights, sub with amp, Airdog fuel pump, ect. you over work them.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 03:21 PM
  #617  
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Aerocell4x4
Diesel Van Enthusiast
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From: ~ Qatar ~
Originally Posted by Nice Work Truck
Good morning guys. TGIF
Looks like I need a new alternator for the truck.
The old one is week and I'm needing to charge my batteries every few days or the truck starts REAL slow.
This is the one I'm looking at
1999- Ford 7.3L, 6.0L, 6.4L, 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel Heavy Duty 6G Series 200 Amp Alternator Upgrade
Andy:

Nice find, I've been on & off thinking about upgrading my alternator and batteries too.

I think your guy has a nice price too, I had always eyed the West Marine HO alternators, though I don't know if any cross-over to a Ford diesel.

My batteries are the originals from Autumn 2005 when my van rolled off the assembly line.

I had a bad experience with a high-output alternator for my old Blazer, thought it might have been partly my fault too.

That alternator used the original case size and was wired to a Ford? external voltage regulator in order to make room for the increased windings.

When I received the alternator, it seemed that the OEM bell-housing screws were loose, so I tightened them.

Many thousands of miles later while coming back from New York, I stopped at the factory outlets off the Mass Pike. When I got out of the Blazer I could smell 'heat' (like an electric burner of a stove).

I popped the hood and was looking around / carefully feeling around for what could be so dang hot.

I found that the lower two screws of the HO alternator had sheared, so my armature was now grinding against the stator. Cracked egg effect.

I drove back to my home which used to be over by the casinos.

I made it home, though I was wondering if the Blazer was going to erupt in flames.

I put in the OEM alternator, and sent the HO back with a note mentioning that for the price I paid for it, one would think he would have assembled the case with cap-screws. He took note and it came back that way.

I was using a boating application extended reach Balmar adjustment arm because, with the smaller pulley diameter on the HO alternator, I couldn't get sufficient tension in the belt. I don't recall why I didn't go with a shorter belt (maybe I just didn't want to go with a non-stock belt, or the next size smaller was too small).

One day under the hood I happened to notice that somewhere along the line the alternator adjustment bracket snapped. I was lucky in that the HO alternator didn't shift much and I still had sufficient tension on the belts for all the other accessories in the loop to function.

I think with that second failure I just called it quits, I still have that alternator and its voltage regular 'sitting on a shelf.' I remember having to change pulleys on the HO alternator, but I forget why I had too. (I think the HO came with a V-belt pulley and I had to run a multi-groove, but had to return it with the v-belt pulley.) It was a pain having to swap pulleys between the alternators as I didn't have an impact gun, I managed as I have a set of those sockets for all thread, or was it a spark plug socket with the external hex, anyways and then a long hex key down through into the shaft..

My ol' HO alternator didn't come with an rpm connection / modular plug to accept the truck's wiring harness, partly because (iirc) I had to use the external voltage regulator. I asked the guy about that and (iirc) he said that due to the smaller diameter pulley that assists the alternator in generating its rated output that the tach signal would be too fast and that I couldn't adjust the tach for it. It became a no-never-mind as the Blazer didn't come stock with a tach in the instrument cluster and (iirc) the tach manufactures seemed to support him in that their tach were only scalable for ignition systems and not alternators.

What I should have done was to go to the dealership and get a mating connector and crimp a butt-splicel onto it to attach the regulator leads for the idiot light. I instead cut the connector off figuring I'll never need that again and butt-splice to the idiot-light lead. At least I saved the connector which saved me when I put the OEM alternator back into the Blazer.

Today in reflecting back on that smaller pulley diameter (and it seems that the one you are looking at has a smaller pulley too), I wonder how well a HO alternator would hold up to a chipped engine where the RPM limiter has been bumped up?

Please keep us posted, I'd like to know how cleanly the install goes.
I used to keep the OEM alternator (and take-off items ) with me after the HO cracked its case figuring I'd be stranded without it should the HO alternator fail again on me.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 04:53 PM
  #618  
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BIGKEN
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Howdy CT...Welcome to the Weekend!!!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:01 PM
  #619  
Nice Work Truck's Avatar
Nice Work Truck
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From: CT
Originally Posted by Aerocell4x4
Andy:

Nice find, I've been on & off thinking about upgrading my alternator and batteries too.

I think your guy has a nice price too, I had always eyed the West Marine HO alternators, though I don't know if any cross-over to a Ford diesel.

My batteries are the originals from Autumn 2005 when my van rolled off the assembly line.

I had a bad experience with a high-output alternator for my old Blazer, thought it might have been partly my fault too.

That alternator used the original case size and was wired to a Ford? external voltage regulator in order to make room for the increased windings.

When I received the alternator, it seemed that the OEM bell-housing screws were loose, so I tightened them.

Many thousands of miles later while coming back from New York, I stopped at the factory outlets off the Mass Pike. When I got out of the Blazer I could smell 'heat' (like an electric burner of a stove).

I popped the hood and was looking around / carefully feeling around for what could be so dang hot.

I found that the lower two screws of the HO alternator had sheared, so my armature was now grinding against the stator. Cracked egg effect.

I drove back to my home which used to be over by the casinos.

I made it home, though I was wondering if the Blazer was going to erupt in flames.

I put in the OEM alternator, and sent the HO back with a note mentioning that for the price I paid for it, one would think he would have assembled the case with cap-screws. He took note and it came back that way.

I was using a boating application extended reach Balmar adjustment arm because, with the smaller pulley diameter on the HO alternator, I couldn't get sufficient tension in the belt. I don't recall why I didn't go with a shorter belt (maybe I just didn't want to go with a non-stock belt, or the next size smaller was too small).

One day under the hood I happened to notice that somewhere along the line the alternator adjustment bracket snapped. I was lucky in that the HO alternator didn't shift much and I still had sufficient tension on the belts for all the other accessories in the loop to function.

I think with that second failure I just called it quits, I still have that alternator and its voltage regular 'sitting on a shelf.' I remember having to change pulleys on the HO alternator, but I forget why I had too. (I think the HO came with a V-belt pulley and I had to run a multi-groove, but had to return it with the v-belt pulley.) It was a pain having to swap pulleys between the alternators as I didn't have an impact gun, I managed as I have a set of those sockets for all thread, or was it a spark plug socket with the external hex, anyways and then a long hex key down through into the shaft..

My ol' HO alternator didn't come with an rpm connection / modular plug to accept the truck's wiring harness, partly because (iirc) I had to use the external voltage regulator. I asked the guy about that and (iirc) he said that due to the smaller diameter pulley that assists the alternator in generating its rated output that the tach signal would be too fast and that I couldn't adjust the tach for it. It became a no-never-mind as the Blazer didn't come stock with a tach in the instrument cluster and (iirc) the tach manufactures seemed to support him in that their tach were only scalable for ignition systems and not alternators.

What I should have done was to go to the dealership and get a mating connector and crimp a butt-splicel onto it to attach the regulator leads for the idiot light. I instead cut the connector off figuring I'll never need that again and butt-splice to the idiot-light lead. At least I saved the connector which saved me when I put the OEM alternator back into the Blazer.

Today in reflecting back on that smaller pulley diameter (and it seems that the one you are looking at has a smaller pulley too), I wonder how well a HO alternator would hold up to a chipped engine where the RPM limiter has been bumped up?

Please keep us posted, I'd like to know how cleanly the install goes.
I used to keep the OEM alternator (and take-off items ) with me after the HO cracked its case figuring I'd be stranded without it should the HO alternator fail again on me.

It is a direct bolt on, the only thing I will need to do is add a 2nd cable to the battery and one over to the 2nd battery to handle the extra power.

My truck is set to shift at 3800 rpm at WOT and the new alternator says it is good to 10,000 rpm so it should be fine.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #620  
Aerocell4x4's Avatar
Aerocell4x4
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
Originally Posted by Nice Work Truck
It is a direct bolt on, the only thing I will need to do is add a 2nd cable to the battery and one over to the 2nd battery to handle the extra power.

My truck is set to shift at 3800 rpm at WOT and the new alternator says it is good to 10,000 rpm so it should be fine.

Andy, is that 10,000 Alternator RPMs or engine RPM's?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:17 PM
  #621  
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Nice Work Truck
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From: CT
Originally Posted by Aerocell4x4
Andy, is that 10,000 Alternator RPMs or engine RPM's?

They say engine RPM
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 06:18 PM
  #622  
7.3 Rocket's Avatar
7.3 Rocket
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Joined: Dec 2008
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Likes: 2
From: Wallingford, CT
Originally Posted by y2kfordparts
cause I know you.
Got it. I can't make you go bald so I make you drink.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 06:36 PM
  #623  
Parts Guy Wyatt's Avatar
Parts Guy Wyatt
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,849
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From: Seattle
Originally Posted by 7.3 Rocket
Got it. I can't make you go bald so I make you drink.


YOU SUCK!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:00 PM
  #624  
Aerocell4x4's Avatar
Aerocell4x4
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
Question Steering Limiter

Eh guys

Please point me to 'steering limiters' that might fit my van.

As I recall, the device limits the throw of the pitman arm.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:07 PM
  #625  
7.3 Rocket's Avatar
7.3 Rocket
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From: Wallingford, CT
Originally Posted by y2kfordparts

YOU SUCK!
It's ok, Grandpa Ed.

Well that storm was a big disappointment.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:24 PM
  #626  
Aerocell4x4's Avatar
Aerocell4x4
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
The vernal creek next to my house was pretty excited over it.

I think I'm going to dike it a tad this Spring.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:26 PM
  #627  
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Nice Work Truck
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From: CT
Dave you need to build a dam and a small hydro electric plant LOL.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #628  
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StreamlineGT
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: CT
It rained yesterday! So I put my awning halfway out. I wish I could go all the way out, but I haven't fabbed up my mounts for the feet yet. They say I can only go out 1 meter safely with no support.

 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #629  
Aerocell4x4's Avatar
Aerocell4x4
Diesel Van Enthusiast
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Posts: 5,147
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From: ~ Qatar ~
Originally Posted by Nice Work Truck
Dave you need to build a dam and a small hydro electric plant LOL.
Actually Andy there is a small dam right about on my property line above me.

There is subdivision of recent above me, and when it went in, a right of way on their side follows the property line between 'them' and the old area I live in.

That right of way carries the main septic sewer for the houses above me and now, in places, looks like an over grown bulldozer trail.

Where the trail crosses the vernal creek it somewhat elevated the gully and left a rim at the edge of the blade, which then formed a shallow pool with a spillway.

At best I have about 16 feet of total head, and not enough volume for low-head micro-hydro.

I figured I could draw off water for a yard fountain we have (no need now for a pump), and for misting the condenser for the whole-house AC which might save me a few $s (efficiency boost).
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:40 PM
  #630  
Aerocell4x4's Avatar
Aerocell4x4
Diesel Van Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 5,147
Likes: 1
From: ~ Qatar ~
Originally Posted by StreamlineGT
It rained yesterday! So I put my awning halfway out. I wish I could go all the way out, but I haven't fabbed up my mounts for the feet yet. They say I can only go out 1 meter safely with no support.

I want to see a picture with those side doors open.

Revealing a barbecue and liqueur cabinet for a GTG.

Could probably fit a small keg into one of the lower compartments.
 
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