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I have a 1979 F350 400 with a Holley street dominator intake, it has an egr provision on it but no egr only 2 small freeze plugs in the holes. One of them rusted through and exhaust comes out of it. anyone know what egr these take stock, or what? I just want to plug the hole w something. local parts store says they cant get freeze plugs in that size.
The stock EGR valve for your truck should fit it, or you can tap the holes and put pipe plugs in. Those are good intake I really liked mine, pretty good low end for a single plane. The 400 is gone but I still have the intake, saving it for a multi port EFI idea I have.
-Johnboy
thanks for the info, I have another problem with this truck. It is a 79 F 350 400 4speed. When I got it it had backfire issues under acceleration. I originally thought cam was bad, put in comp cams 255DEH, still has backfire under acceleration. checked compression 130 on every single cylinder, warm no leak down. distributor was stuck before cam change, broke it getting it out, replaced it with one from a running truck, so not that change timing does not help any. vac. at intake bounces from abou 13 to 16 at idle but jumps to 20 just off idle. if accelerating slowly it will run no backfire, but go past half pedal and it backfires continuosly. Fourth gear is like throwing out an anchor no power at all. also changed carbs put on edelbrock 1407 new and it has afore mentioned holley street dominator intake. If anyone has any ideas at all i would like to hear them, im out of ideas at this point.
Backfiring out the carb could be a lean condition. Maybe check the float level and make sure one of the jets isn't plugged. How did the spark plugs look? Might also be an ignition miss under load. May need new plugs and wires. Also a coil can fail under load. Is the vacuum gauge fluctuating quickly or drifting?
Spark plugs were changed with cam so they only have 2miles on them, vac guage flutters rapidly, I am checking preload and looking for broken valve springs as soon as I get off here.
problem found. 1 rocker arm was loose tried to check torque but it was tight, so pulled intake, lifter was down too far in the bore, pulled it out and the bottom is smashed in, any ideas what caused this. it had to have collapsed on the first startup, could it be defective or could it be from bad initial torque, I am not beyond making a mistake, but i took my time and double checked. anyway Iam heading to the parts store to get a new set of lifters. Thanks for the help guys.
The rocker arm was loose because of the lifter being about 1/8 inch too short when compared with the rest. It was not opening the valve at all. It had no preload in the lifter, when all the way up it was just compressing the lifter. But I got a new set put in today. found out that my chilton manual must have a misprint in it. It tells you to put engine to top dead center of #1 cylinder and the rockers it says to tighten, some of the lifters are not all the way down. The last time I tightened them down I had the intake on and could not see this. so I think I found what went wrong. two other lifters were dished, but not to the extent of the first one I pulled. After getting the lifters in I timed it and checked overall timing, and found that the mechanical advance sticks, when the engine revs, the timing advances and stays. At idle after accelerating timing stays above 30 degrees advanced, until I shut off the engine. so tommorrow I think I will pick up a distributor. Just wanted let you guys know I figured it out And thank everyone who tried to help.
if the failed lifter was on an exhaust, then the exhaust wasn't going out the exhaust... it was coming back out through the carb when the intake valve opened up
The failed lifter was on the exhaust on cylinder 6. and my distributor was in pretty bad shape I was not going to knock out rusty pins to get to the mech adv. A replacement from Orielly's was only 45.00 with a 20.00 core. its running great now. just in time for the snow.
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