My lights are still on and I don't have any grinding, none of my tone rings are loose to the touch and I don't see any damaged wires I just have not had time to find or buy a code reader and am just living with the problem for now. My lights are staying on all the time, one of these days I will find someone with a reader or I will just take it in, I need new tires anyway i'm at 60K in 2 years and 2 weeks of ownership.

If you do have grinding someone should check it out. I have a manual tranny so I did not get a recall. I don't think I even have a tranny cooler, its not needed with a stick.

 

My car guy is going out-of-town for the weekend, so he'll drive it when he gets home to give me an idea, but no lights for brakes, just the tc light flashing periodically. He gave me a suggestion of the calling the dealership to check on service bulletins - may not be a recall. so I'll do that next and hope and pray that they fix it for free. My interior lights are out too - think it's the switch. the light in the back goes on when I open the doors, but the front one doesn't unless I press the buttons. When I try to jiggle the switch it doesn't seem to stay in the middle on"door". Maybe I need a new switch?? And it leaks in the back. Of course all this is happening after the warranty is up.

 

ok - tc light still coming on and being really annoying, but doesn't seem to be affecting anything else. I just take my foot off the gas until it stops flashing. A friend will have his mechanic look at it and get codes - he doesn't want the dealership to take advantage of me - may be a sensor??

 

Sorry it took so long to get back to this thread, I've been swamped at work the last couple of months. I got an Innova 3160 scanner. The problem on mine was the left rear ABS sensor, I replaced it and cleared the codes, everything works fine now.

 

ok - hopefully it is a sensor cause now the abs light is on. I contacted Ford Motor Co and reported the problem - if they get calls about the problem from a number of people, they will issue a recall - here is the number 1-800-392-3673. I'll let my friend know about the sensor and see if he can check it. Thank you for the info about the sensor - wish you lived in MD so I could just pay you to fix it instead of the dealership if it goes that far.

 

Ok - I had the same problem as the mechanic - abs wheel sensor right front - sensor is $95 and $45 labor - $150 total not too bad - hope this helps

 

If this is happening to you, skip to the solution below. Sure it is lame, but better than hundreds if not more in parts and labor.

It is a 2nd home car, left it sitting for 6 weeks. Started it and every time I just started and turned to the right, the TC light flashed and it bogged down, then I'd put on the brakes and get a sickening feeling, pulsing, sound of ABS trying to do something and then both lights came on and went off/on a few cycles but generally stayed on. Really annoying because no problem when I last parked it.

So I went to Advance and got the codes read:
Codes C1236 (Speed Wheel LR Input - Signal Missing) and U0414 (Invalid Data Received From Four-Wheel Drive Clutch Control Module)

The guy sells me the sensor for $29+, I take it home, take off the wheel and check and yup, the metal ring on the hub behind the brakes is indeed split and loose and spinning on the hub. So the "kids" who had taken over when I got back initially said I couldn't return the sensor, but eventually succumbed and were able to do it (still in sealed bag, receipt from an hour before, etc.). One counter guy said I might not even be able to get the ring or get it pressed on (after I read that requirement on another forum) and might have to buy the entire hub assembly. Lawd y'all, this is just a cheap part time car for running around the granddaughter.

So, I go to the JB Weld. This is a legendary epoxy for making "weld-like" bonds between metal, plastics, etc. I've generally used the "regular" version that takes a few hours to "set" and day or two to fully "cure." They have a "Marine" version for outdoor, waterproof use (after curing) and I considered that but it's set and cure times were really long. Considering the limited access to this spot without doing more than taking off the wheel, I went for the "Quick-Set" version with a 6-minute set time and fully cured in 4-6 hours. It "only" holds like 4000 psi where the regular is 6000 psi or something but this isn't a stress part, I needed to be able to get it to set quickly.

I mixed up a nice dollop of each tube and then took a tree branch stick I'd broken off from a nearby shrub (not at my home, or shop) and smeared it all round the hub tapered surface the TONE ring presses onto with the ring pushed toward the outside/wheel out of the way. Once I got a nice coating all around the lightly rusted surface the tone-ring had been seated on, I pressed the ring back into place making sure the broken part was toward the front top where I could squeeze it. It hurt but I repeatedly squeezed it with my fingers to try to get the split part as close together as possible and assuming some of the JBWeld was in the gap. Within a couple of minutes, it set well and was back in position.

Sure it was a bit sloppy, and it is clearly something I'd never do to one of my collectible cars, but if you have a cracked tone ring and it is still in place and not broken off and lost, this is a successful repair. I don't know how long it will last but since these are very simple systems and the sensor only needs to see the pulses from the tone ring, like who really cares?

$4 repair instead of hundreds or more (something I couldn't do at a vacation home, and apparently you need to press the tone ring on if you can even get it all disassembled and get a new ring). Good luck!