The hardest part I thought was getting the nerve up to SAWZALL the cobra neck off (the point of no return). I cannot find the link but you DO NOT want to use a torch! It really is a simple mod.
The longer you stand on the high dive and look at the water, the more nervous you become....just jump. It isn't that bad.

 

here is the link: exhaust removal gone horrible

i hope also that my downpipe arrives soon, cant't await to mount it for get a better exhaust gas flow and sound
and i will for sure NOT use a torch.....

 

LOL, Thats it! Thanks buddy! How is the weather in Denmark? Hope all is well there. Yup, in the summer time with the windows down that SZSZSZSZSZSZ of the turbo sounds cool with the air and exhaust mod. Good to see you again!

 

yep, it's all fine here.
thought this was the link you could'nt find
weather is quite cold, it's many years ago that is was so cold with so many snow how currently. hope spring comes soon...
how goes it in maryland? all well?

 

All is well here my friend! It is snowing now (a few inches expected) but here in Maryland we don't get to much snow (usually). I personally like the COLD and SNOW as well as the spring and fall. I don't like extreme heat to much unless I have a drink and my hand and my toes in the sand looking at the hot babes on the beach! Today I am making some vegetable beef soup and watching the snow fall (I will take my 2 year old daughter out later or tomorrow to go sledding). Life is good...even my Ball-N-Chain (wife) is having fun!

 

glad to hear!
i make myself a nice lazy-weekend. the cold weather is outside and i'm inside in the warm and relax.
sound like fun to go out for sledding with your daughter :-)
we have usually also not much snow in the past years. anyway, it's nice to have a really winter in between.

 

Michael, I am looking forward to the Olympics coming up, particularly the Ice hockey. (I have become a Hockey FANatic now for some reason). You like the winter Olympics? If you are a hockey fan (NHL) I am a die hard CAPITALS fan! My CAPS are doing really well this year.

 

if there are olympics, i take a look. icehockey is awesome. i like it, but i'm not a fan of a special team.

oooops... btw: we've done it sorry dave

 

I/we sure did the thread sorry Dave! (I can make a left or right turn easily w/o realizing. Sorry.
What were we talking about again?

 

the hardest part was cutting the original DP . i put a 3in downpipe from riffraffdiesel.com . as for the firewall you dont need to cut anything . mine was an auto and all i did was grabbed a looger spike or you can use a piece of steel and pry the wall back using the motor as a point of prying . The firewall was WAY easy no worries

 

This was my experience as well....(it was my first mod to my "new truck"). I did cut the firewall w/the 3inch.....I din't try to dry fit it w/o doing it, I just cut it and beat it back with a BFH and 2X4 and it slipped right in.

 

Looking at discussions over time, it looks like the majority have been easy... cut stock pipe out, slice firewall/cab floor weld flange, bend flange back, drop in. Some aren't that easy, and mine was one of the "aren't" class, even with a 3" downpipe.

The issue seems to be where your cab and engine are mounted on the frame relative to manufacturing tolerances. This determines how much clearance you have between block and firewall. If cab is mounted to rear of tolerances and engine to front, evidently you have plenty of clearance and are happy. Most folks seem to have been happy. If cab is mounted forward and engine rear, you don't have enough clearance and installation is more complicated. How much more complicated seems to vary; mine seemed to be towards the least clearance / most complicated end.

First of all, get a couple of good quality long metal cutting blades and use a Sawzall to cut the "cobra head" off the stock downpipe, and drop the pipe out the bottom. Sawzall works quickly and well, and is low-risk.

Next, take the top part of your new downpipe and try to drop it down in place. If it fits with clearance, you've got a simple job. If it doesn't fit, you need to move the offending part of the firewall out of the way. At this point, you can slice the weld flange but don't bend it back until you get the firewall moved enough to get the top part of the downpipe in place. Firewall is easier to move before flange is bent.

Some guys have used porta-power to move the firewall, but I suspect that only works if you just need to move the bottom of the firewall back a little bit. Tried it, didn't get enough clearance. I ended up using a short little air hammer (Lowe's Kobalt) and short, blunted chisel to peen a shallow dent in the firewall. You want a short hammer and chisel to fit between the block and firewall without having to angle the hammer.

Once the top part of the new pipe will drop in, you're on the home stretch. Bend back the weld flange to clear the bottom turn in the new pipe, paint any metal you scraped up, and put in the new pipe.

 

After reading these posts I want to give it a try.

What parts do I need?

Down tube ... two piece 3 inch.

Two new donuts? part numbers?

two new hose clamps ... special ones?

Is there a special connection nescessary at the exhaust end?

 

I didn't have to pick up any additional parts, and I don't see where other kits should differ. Turbo-to-downpipe is a flaired compression fit and reuses the stock clamp. The clamp is hose-clamp kind of thing, with a female V-shape on the interior of the band to compress the downpipe and turbo flairs together. Downpipe to turbo is a ball-joint, and my kit came with the downpipe plate (this might be what you're calling the "doughnut"... I'm not up on exhaust part terms!) and new bolts.

Once you have clearance for the round pipe, it's a simple bolt-on job.

 

Thank you for the respose.

What is a downpipe plate? Any pics or links to see what it looks like?

Does the truck already have a downpipe plate or is it an additional add on to help out?