Ok so I am jumping over here since it looks like I was in the wrong forum (trucks not engines)... Conanski I appoligise b/c you have already seen this info. in trucks...

Doing my 351w build for a 1988 Ford F-250 4x4 reg cab (351w origional to truck). I literally got the truck for $200. Everything leaks so, pulled the BW1345, C6, 351w and stripped the block down.

Now I am to the juncture of needing a cam, lifter, and rocker set that will let the engine breathe better (was looking at GT40' heads but out of the budget for this build). I am planning on shorty headers with a Y pipe to 3in exhaust (just got a mig and have plenty of pipe to do myself).

Anyway I was looking at the following cams... Obviously the Crane444232 is out due to the Company problems. Looking at Comp Cams 35-255-5, Summit Racing SUM-K4400, Howards Cams 220011, and EdleBrock 2182 Kit from Summit. Thoughts?????

Also I was wondering if 1.7 rockers would work with these cams?

 

The 35-255-5 is probably the best choice unless you order a custom cam from one of the other guys with specs that are similar to the Crane 444232.

 

the E7 heads on that motor are good, a little work on the exhaust side can help and not break the bank. the real bottleneck is the efi intake. if you can locate an edelbrock efi truck intake it will help performance wise over what you have.

 

Ok I'll go with the Comp Cam 35-255-5... Should i change my springs and rockers on my heads? If so Suggestions???

 

You don't have to so it's your call if you want to or not.

 

well i don't know what i have on there now but was reading that 1.6 or 1.7 rockers will let my intake breathe a little better, and it's inexpensive to do. I figured I can change my intake manifold for a typhoon later with the engine in the truck (if I really want to). So do you have any recomendations on rockers that will work better with that comp cam?????

 

Since you're replacing the cam I wouldn't worry about rockers.. they won't make much difference because valve lift is already close to 1/2". If you were using the Crane cam then 1.7 rockers would be a nice addition.

 

ok so the 351w block crank and heads are at the machine shop... The block is going to be bored and they are going to put in cam berings and freeze plugs in for me... I'm looking for a rebuild kit but find myself confused... Normal I suppose for a first timer on a rebuild...

What I know i need:
main berings
rod berings
oil pump
pistons
timing set
gasket set
engine assembly prelube
breakin oil
cam
lifters

What I don't know:
1.) For those of you who have done rebuilds do i need anything else?
2.) Having the E7 heads cleaned and crack checked... need more service than that or ok to bolt on???
3.) What type of piston to get; flat or dish? hypereutectic, cast or other?
4.) Is it better to buy the parts (above) seperatly or in a kit? (already know i want a comp cam and lifters and machine shop says they can substitute in for me) Are kits cheaper?????????
5.) Please feel free to add any other comments/parts/ideas!!!!!

 

Wait untill the shop tells you if you need undersized bearings or not before buying them, and same goes for the pistons and rings, don't buy until they tell you how much it is being bored. Cast or hyper pistons are fine, you want flattops with valve reliefs for the extra clearance it provides. No need for a high volume oil pump when all the bearing are new and everything is in spec. Check the valve guides for wear and seats for seal and fix as required. Are you buying all the parts or is the shop supplying some or all?

 

the shop might be putting the kit together for me... it was an extra $7 for him to get the comp cam and comp lifters than ordering them seperate online. Plus they are already putting the cam berings and freeze plugs in for me and most of the kits i've seen online have those parts included in the package. Thus i would be paying for the same parts twice... So i was thinking of letting the machine shop put the rebuild package together for me b/c they know what i'll need...

The machine shop already has the heads or I would check them tonight... It was $35 to clean and crack check them so i figured I wasn't losing much. Plus if they see a problem with the heads I'm sure they'll let me know (the owner knows I'm a newbie to rebuilds and seems like a good guy). So to answer your question the shop is going to get at least some or all of the parts for me.

PS: the owner thought flat top pistons and a "RV" cam might give me just as much as the comp cam we talked about... thoughts???

 

due to your SD efi an rv cam will not run properly. just stick with the plan.

dont exceed a 9.5-1 comp ratio otherwise you will be running premium fuel.

 

How much if the hardware is going to be replaced/upgraded on the rotating assembly?

Replace the oil pump shaft while it's apart.

 

Ok so update on the 351w build... The block is back and got bored 0.030 over, the crank was polished (didn't need turning so stock size). I am keeping the rods and getting flat pistons (compression bumped to 8.7ish:1 but not past the 9.5:1 ratio) with moly rings. After all the trouble I went through to figure out the comp cam I wanted is the 35-255-5... I priced the rebuild package out with that cam included and it's going to cost me an extra $138 rather than an upgraded Erson "RV" cam (book said good for light to medium hauling and gas economy).

The Erson (E211/011 I believe is the part #) is still 114 degree lobe seperation and the power is rated from 1250-4750 rpms. Instead of the 1000-5200 rpms on the comp cam. I am also losing just a little on the lift or duration can't remember which... The machinist told me that the Erson was very very similar to the comp cam I wanted. I think by getting the cheaper Erson cam, I have the extra money to purchase a pair of long tube headers instead of running the stock exhaust manifolds. Looking at the PaceSetter 70-3104's that (I think) Conanski recommended... Can't find a good online site that has them though... Any suggestions????

Also my E7 heads were warped... UGH! $200+ to set them right but found a set of E7's on craigslist not to far from me that only supposedly have 100-150 miles on them after a complete clean, magnaflux, and valve job for $100 (the guy switched to Gt-40's)... Would be looking for a pair of GT-40's myself but still out of price range...

Couldn't find much information about the Erson Cams online so unless someone chimes in with bad news about them I think I'll probably go with the plan above...

Thanks for all the help guys, I can't wait to get it together!

 

remember you get what you pay for. and i have never heard of that cam before. CompCams is a reputable company, any issues and you have great customer service and something to fall back on. I would suggest getting new head bolts also if you havent yet.

 

Comp & Sig Erson were bought out several years ago by "Corporate America". Both corps terminated and even shut down operations for a short duration- although the reasons were financial, but almost 100% of the the most senior staff were terminated- new, young employees were hired at a fraction of the previous salaries.

Both companies are essentially now mass production facilities with the knowledge of the senior staff gone. Parkerizing I suspect is not even used anymore (which IMHO I suspect is the perceptual reason for Comp having so many initial break-in lobe failures).

I personally recommend Iskendeian & Crower- both are still family owned and I know Isky still checks every valve spring before it leaves the shop! Both also regrind your oem cams in many cases (ie RV style) and remeber what the cam companies are publishing is "advertised duration & lift"- not what the actual profile is.....Isky & Crower both have a variety of grinds available of which only a sample is listed on the web- they really like to speak directly to customers so that you can get exactly what you need- no more, no less.