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I have a jumping caliper. Makes a horrible sound at low speeds. I have been told at this great forum that I can weld in some extra at the lower part of the caliper, and then grind it down to fit the steering knuckle. What I do not know is where the wear is. Would a new calipper solve the problem. Or should I replace the steering knucle at some point? It just does not feel right to weld a new caliper. Someone who knows?
I am a bit confused by your description of your problem.
Are you referring to your Brake Calipers? The brake calipers are held in place by two retaining pins. Sometimes the rubber in the pins wears out and the brake caliper gets loose. The right thing to do is to replace the pins with new pins. Also make sure the pins are not pounded in upside-down, you need to match the right side of the pin with the right taper on the caliper/caliper support brakets or you could get into sticking issues with the brake calipers that could cause the brakes to lock/chatter.
Although, I do think I fully understand your question so a little more information from you would be appreciated in regards to what you are referring to when you say calipers.
Do the pins for sure whether you end up welding it or not, mine did same thing then the pins eventually worked themselves out and caliper jumped off the rotor doin 65, not good. They are only like 5 bucks for a set of 2 and take only a couple minutes to swap, it wouldnt hurt to try
How deep is the wear spot on the steering knuckle, top and bottom?
I did the weld and file flat fix on my 44, and it lasted longer than the axle did.
It just takes a little extra time with a file instead of a grinder.
Flux core MIG welder was what I used for a welder when I did this.
I also put a couple spots, one inside and one outside in the groove where the slider pin fits, helped tighten the pins up a little more since they also like to work their way out.
When I installed the calipers, I used never sieze on all of the contact points between the caliper and steering knuckle, seems to have helped withthe calipers binding and not releasing right when you let off the brakes.
Ok, so you welded the steering knuckle. I can`t say how deep grooves there are. Haven`t disassembled anything yet. It is too cold , or maybe I am just getting old...(-;
But I know for sure that it doesn`t help to replace the pins. Tried that.
I am just planning some work for the spring. I think I will come back to this after disassembling the brakes.
Since ya aint gonna be tearin into it now id spend the time lookin for a good deal on some used ones thats in good shape, unless ya wanna pay for new ones
I have done it like Dave suggested several times on pickups that ran too long without the pin and wore the steering knuckle with zero problems. It is just a little time consuming.
I was around 300K when I did mine.
Over the years, braking in both directions wears on the caliper mount, top and bottom.
Actually the bottom probably gets more wear since you are applying the brakes going frontwards more than backwards.
After a while, you will notice the caliper can move up and down slightly.
When you drive forward, the friction of the brake pads picks the caliper up, and then it drops all the way down.
Clunk.....clunk.....clunk when you are driving slow.
Annoyed the crap out of me going through residential sections.
Given the cost of steering knuckles, I thought I would experiment with replacing the worn metal with a small weld spot.
Worked great, so I did a more perminent repair.
It was still quiet when I swapped in the 60 several years later.
Ok, I will weld the steering knuckle and buy some new pins.
But I still think it is to cold in my garage.. So it`s going to clunk-clunk to april or may. Thanks for useful information.
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