Well, after doing some research I see that the standard leaf blower only puts out roughly 300-700 cfm. The big walk behind leaf blowers only put out roughly 2000 cfm. If I'm going to make the modifications, it appears I'll be better off buying the 3000 cfm electric fan.

 

While you can time it by lining up the timing gear, you really need to dynamically time it to have it run correctly, especially to address your excessive smoke/low power issue. The DB2 pump is pretty sensitive to very little movements when it comes to timing the engine. 1/8 inch can be a few degrees of timing either way.

Unfortunately timing these engines correctly requires fairly expensive gear. Timing the engine correctly can easily pay for the expensive timing tool over a few years of driving. I picked up about 2 mpg when I timed my truck dynamically, and I picked up some power too.

If you are in the Seattle area I can help you time your truck. Send me a PM if you are.

 

how much does it cost to get it dynamically timed?

 

I have no idea what a shop would charge. I can do it in about an hour.

As for tools, I use a Bluepoint (Snap-on) MT257 Diesel Pulse Adapter and an Equus Innova 5568 timing light (though the 3568 would work too). The Pulse Adapter senses the fuel pulse to the #1 injector and converts that to a signal that the inductive timing light can interpret. You need a timing light that will show RPM and advance.

I was impatient and bought the Pulse Adapter from Snapon.com for $300 (don't tell my wife).

The timing light was about $100.

I'm confident a shop would have charged me far less than half the cost of the tools, but I would rather have the tools.

I did it the MOST expensive way, I'm sure. Searching ebay for a diesel pulse adapter or a Rotunda 78-0200 (factory Ford timing tool), would be much cheaper. You don't need a timing light for the Rotunda tool.

 

When you installed the IP, you had the timing gears timed correctly.
But where did you set the timing mark on the IP neck in relation to the one on the IP drive gear cover?

Crank, cam and IP drive gear all have marks.

When you set the gear timing, the crank to cam gear marks are together and the cam to IP drive gear marks are together, which makes a straight line from the crank to IP drive gear.

When the gears are in that position, the harmonic balancer mark should also be showing TDC on the timing gear cover marks.

And if you lined up the timing marks on the IP neck to the timing mark on the IP drive gear cover, the engine is static timed and should start.

From there, after the engine fires when power is applied to the timing advance solenoid terminal, I turn ther top of the IP about 1 degree to the passenger side, tighten the bolts and start the engine.
Repeat till you hear a rattle (Power Stroke Rattle) when the engine starts, which should go away when the timing advance solenoid no longer has power applied.

Always turn the engine off before loosening the IP mounting bolts and rotating the IP, tighten the bolts before starting the engine again.
It takes a little time to get it right, but worth the effort.

Also another side note, check the fuel pressure at the filter before you try to adjust the timing.
I like to see between 4 and 7 PSI since fuel pressure inside the IP changes the timing.

One degree rotation of the IP = 1/2 degree change in injection timing.
Top of IP to passenger side is advancing the injection timing.

Fans and leaf blowers, most of them may move X CFM of air.
But can they build pressure while moving X CFM of air?
Unless they can build pressure, they are not helping.

7.3 = 444 cubic inches
3300 RPM divided by 2 for a four stroke engine = 1650 * 444 = 732,600 cubic inches displaced per minute.
Divide that by 1728 cubic inches per cubic foot, 732,600/1728=423.95 CFM of displacement.

So to build any kind of pressure, what ever you use as a fan has to be able to displace more than 423.95 CFM at the very least.
If it moves less that 423.95 CFM, at 3300 RPM the fan becomes a restriction in the intake air path.

14 PSI boost would take a fan capable of building 14 PSI pressure and a minimum of 847.9 CFM.

So 847.99 CFM fans are out there.
But how many can build 14 PSI pressure while moving 847.9 CFM's?
And the next part of the problem, how many amps of electricty are they going to use?

 

Dave,
Is there a good tool to use to test the pressure at the schrader valve?

 

wrecker I have never used my fuel pressure tester for efi on a diesel but I think the ford adapter will screw on the schrader valve. I never tried it because I didn't think it would be accurate at 4 to 8 pounds, but I'll bet it will work on yours. lol

 

yeah it might be good for mine and my massive pressure! hahaha. Man taxes cant come fast enough! cant wait for the fuel system to be perfected and the cooling system! haha

 

My engine is static timed. The timing marks are all aligned, and yes it does start and idles fine. The problem is when I take it to the road. It's not too bad through the first 3 to 4 gears. It's when I put it into overdrive that it bellows black smoke and continues this until I get the engine up to just shy of 2000 rpm's. The problem with this is that at 2000 rpm's with the 5 speed I'm running 65 mph. This really isn't the speed I'm desiring on rough country roads.

I'm assuming my pressure at the filter is fine because it has a new filter on it and I have replumbed routing the fuel line around my manual lift pump as I have a 7 psi electric pump installed. From the black smoke, it appears as I'm getting too much fuel. It appears as though I need to retard the timing. I can't remember, does turning the pump towards the passenger side retard or advance the timing?

 

Advance .......

 

Honestly, it sounds like your timing needs to be advanced. Try moving your timing mark to the passenger side about 1/8" and see if you are still blowing black smoke in 5th. I bet that clears it up.

 

I have never seen one that needed retarted past the static mark. I usually move them about a line width at a time until I get the rattle right.

 

Here's what the diesel doctor says about smoke from the 7.3's:

White smoke:
Caused by unburned fuel passing through the engine. Some white smoke is normal on cold start-ups.
Excessive white smoke could be an indication of inoperative glow plugs, loose injectors, low compression from worn rings or bent connecting rods, or coolant leak into the cylinders.
Black smoke:
Caused by excessive fuel for the amount of air drawn into the cylinders. Some black smoke on hard accel or at higher altitudes is normal.
Excessive black smoke could result from restricted intake or exhaust, inoperative leaking or weak turbo (if equiped), intake manifold gasket leaks (turbo), leaking or worn injectors, fuel return or supply restriction, advanced injecion pump timing or defective injection pump.
Blue or blue/white smoke:
Caused by insufficient fuel or oil consumption. Normal when engine is cold or idling for extended periods.
Excessive smoke could be caused by air in the fuel, contaminated fuel, loose or plugged injectors, thermostat stuck open, oil consumption, plugged crankcase depression regulator valve, retarded injection pump timing, or defective injection pump.

The smoke coming from my pickup isn't blue or blue/white. It is straight up black. So, it would appear I need to retard my timing?

 

It is possible I just have never seen one that had to be timed to the drivers side of the of the static mark. Obviously I haven't seen them all.
Curious do you have stock exhaust if so it is possible that your muffler is rusting on the inside and blocking flow enough to be causing this. They are pretty inadequate anyway.
I have only owned one that truly you couldn't make it smoke and the timing was still to the drivers side of the mark, but it was obviously retarded a little as it didn't have the stroke rattle when cold. You couldn't get a puff of smoke out even when shifting gears when loaded.

 

The pipes are stock, but I removed the muffler and welded in a new straight pipe where the muffler used to be a couple of years ago. Yes, it was rusting out and causing me problems then. However, there should be absolutely no restrictions now without the muffler even there.