F1 Door Locks
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
F1 Door Locks
We've got most of the big-ticket items taken care of on my truck, and I'm now working my way around to some of the smaller items. Next on the list is the door latches and locks.
My door handles seem to be fairly loose (not surprising for a 60 year old truck). I need to decide what to do to tighten them up. I also need to decide what to do about locks. My truck on has one lock cylinder hole (no cylinder) on the passenger side. Was there not one on the drivers side?
I've found replacement lock cylinders at several of the Early Ford parts suppliers, but looking at the photos of the cylinders and then looking at my latches in my doors I'll be darned if I can see how it ties together.
I thought about just installing power door locks, but I'm not sure how to go about that either. I looked at AXracer's gallery to see how did it, but his appears to be a '56 which is quite different than an F1
Thanks in advance for any light you guys can shed on it.
-DV
My door handles seem to be fairly loose (not surprising for a 60 year old truck). I need to decide what to do to tighten them up. I also need to decide what to do about locks. My truck on has one lock cylinder hole (no cylinder) on the passenger side. Was there not one on the drivers side?
I've found replacement lock cylinders at several of the Early Ford parts suppliers, but looking at the photos of the cylinders and then looking at my latches in my doors I'll be darned if I can see how it ties together.
I thought about just installing power door locks, but I'm not sure how to go about that either. I looked at AXracer's gallery to see how did it, but his appears to be a '56 which is quite different than an F1
Thanks in advance for any light you guys can shed on it.
-DV
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,661
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I believe drivers side door locks where options not standard (not sure on the years), my '56 only has a passanger side door lock. I read the reasoning was so you would unlock the passanger side and scoot over and not be in the middle of the road when you went to unlock your cab.
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 21,997
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Driver' side door locks didn't start coming as standard items until somewhere in the early 60's
I've heard that they can be added and I've seen the kits in some of the catalogs but I don't have any experience with them (yet). I should probably start thinking about it as there are times I need to leave my truck in a parking lot.
Bobby
I've heard that they can be added and I've seen the kits in some of the catalogs but I don't have any experience with them (yet). I should probably start thinking about it as there are times I need to leave my truck in a parking lot.
Bobby
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
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From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
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Thanks Old F1. I read through the thread you linked to, and a couple of other threads that were linked to from there (I'm not sure why I didn't find any of these threads when I searched).
I think I understand the sagging problem better now (the truck's sagging problem, not mine).
I'm still pondering how to go about installing power locks. I've done it once before on a later model truck, but this is totally different.
-DV
I think I understand the sagging problem better now (the truck's sagging problem, not mine).
I'm still pondering how to go about installing power locks. I've done it once before on a later model truck, but this is totally different.
-DV
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 22
From: Oxford, Indiana
I looked at adding power locks with remote entry to my truck. It's a '52. I think it would be fairly easy. If you look at the assembly, the remote handle mechanism for the inside door handle is just attached to the main latch assembly by a bar. The remote mechanism pulls on this bar to release the latch and open the door and pushes on the bar to engage the lock. All you need to do is rig an electric solenoid in there to push (or pull) the bar towards to latch to engage the lock. The length of the bar gives you a lot of room to pick a good place to mount it.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
Hey Old!
Yo beat me to it! You must be saving the regular stuff too. You make a great Secretary - tee hee!
There are at least 4 to 5 threads on this I have saved but they all revert back to the tow Old refered us to with his link. If yo need more info, I have the pics and info still.
the reason you probably couldn't find iut by using th esearch engien is because you probably searched for "Door Locks" or "Door Lock Cylinders." OK now I'm just being synical about our great search engine.
The electric locks would preclude your having to find an Extra Cab drivers side door bolt mechanism (good luck) to mount the cylinder lock on.
Yo beat me to it! You must be saving the regular stuff too. You make a great Secretary - tee hee!
There are at least 4 to 5 threads on this I have saved but they all revert back to the tow Old refered us to with his link. If yo need more info, I have the pics and info still.
the reason you probably couldn't find iut by using th esearch engien is because you probably searched for "Door Locks" or "Door Lock Cylinders." OK now I'm just being synical about our great search engine.
The electric locks would preclude your having to find an Extra Cab drivers side door bolt mechanism (good luck) to mount the cylinder lock on.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
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We got the passenger side door latch removed. I'm not seeing much wear in the square cam holes, and the spring appears to be working properly. I should have been more specific in my earlier post. My "sagging" problem is with the inside door handles. Both of my outside door handles seem to work fine.
In looking at the door mechanism, it appears that the spring only applies tension to the outside door handle, not the inside. The inside handle has no tension on it, so it just kind of flops around. I can't see where this is caused by wear; it looks like it may have always been this way. I wonder if adding of a spring somewhere on the inside handle linkage (not sure exactly where) would solve it.
Am I missing something?
-DV
In looking at the door mechanism, it appears that the spring only applies tension to the outside door handle, not the inside. The inside handle has no tension on it, so it just kind of flops around. I can't see where this is caused by wear; it looks like it may have always been this way. I wonder if adding of a spring somewhere on the inside handle linkage (not sure exactly where) would solve it.
Am I missing something?
-DV
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
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I may have answered my own question. I can see that there is a thin metal shim that acts as a tensioner where the linkage from the inside handle connects with the latch. It's not really a spring, but I can see how it could have kept the inside handle from "flopping" when it was new. I'm going to try building a new shim using sheet metal to see if I can get it working right again.
-DV
-DV
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
There are two springs - one in the main bolt that holds the outer handle up (in conjunction with the metal tab), and there is a second spring on the remote part that the inside handle attaches to. I would bet that the second spring in the interior door handle mechanism is broken.
I believe in one of the two sub links that were in the post Old linked you to, Ilya (51 PanelMan) posted a few pics of the second spring. Also that thread refered to an aftermarket substitute for the second spring as the originals are not reproduced. Here's the thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-spring.html
Here is a picture of both sets of springs:
Here is the pic of where the larger coil spring goes (top center by the clamp):
And the smaller spring in the interior door handle section. If this is broken or missing, the interior handle will flop and not stay in the locked position:
The substitute spring is made by Vintique for 1932 to 1940 - Part number is B-702268
I believe in one of the two sub links that were in the post Old linked you to, Ilya (51 PanelMan) posted a few pics of the second spring. Also that thread refered to an aftermarket substitute for the second spring as the originals are not reproduced. Here's the thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-spring.html
Here is a picture of both sets of springs:
Here is the pic of where the larger coil spring goes (top center by the clamp):
And the smaller spring in the interior door handle section. If this is broken or missing, the interior handle will flop and not stay in the locked position:
The substitute spring is made by Vintique for 1932 to 1940 - Part number is B-702268
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
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Thanks! The remote handle springs are missing entirely on mine. I wasn't able to find it at Vintage Ford, but armed with the part number I was able to find multiple sources for it. I ordered 2 pair from Dennis Carpenter.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
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OK, got the new inside handle springs installed and it looks good (thanks guys!).
I bought one of the replacement door lock cylinders, and the key will only come out of the cylinder when it's in one position (and not the other). I can install it two different ways; either the door is always locked or always unlocked. Do I just have a defective lock cylinder?
-DV
I bought one of the replacement door lock cylinders, and the key will only come out of the cylinder when it's in one position (and not the other). I can install it two different ways; either the door is always locked or always unlocked. Do I just have a defective lock cylinder?
-DV
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,641
Likes: 21
From: Poway, Ca.
No, those are a pain to position correctly, and I'll try and describe it.
If you take the lock and hold it in your hand and turn it with the key, you will notice that the locking shaft doesn't turn right away. The key turns about 1/2 turn before the shaft starts to rotate. Hold that thought.
In order for you to put the key in and lock the door the key has to turn 360 degrees because it only allows you to insert the key and pull it out in the same same position.
BUT, the actual lock mechanism in the bolt only needs to turn 1/4 (or is it half - doesn't matter) turn to lock the bolt.
What you need to do is play with it a little and turn the lock with the key until the shaft JUST starts to rotate, then insert it into the door and through the lock mechanism. You should be able to turn the key the rest of the way and it will lock the door and position the key so you can remove it. Then try to unlock - it should work.
It's something weird like that - just play with positioning the lock pin a quarter of a turn - either way - before you insert it. You'll get it.
If you take the lock and hold it in your hand and turn it with the key, you will notice that the locking shaft doesn't turn right away. The key turns about 1/2 turn before the shaft starts to rotate. Hold that thought.
In order for you to put the key in and lock the door the key has to turn 360 degrees because it only allows you to insert the key and pull it out in the same same position.
BUT, the actual lock mechanism in the bolt only needs to turn 1/4 (or is it half - doesn't matter) turn to lock the bolt.
What you need to do is play with it a little and turn the lock with the key until the shaft JUST starts to rotate, then insert it into the door and through the lock mechanism. You should be able to turn the key the rest of the way and it will lock the door and position the key so you can remove it. Then try to unlock - it should work.
It's something weird like that - just play with positioning the lock pin a quarter of a turn - either way - before you insert it. You'll get it.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 485
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I think I definitely have the wrong lock cylinder. The door lock cam only works between 0 and 90 degrees.
The lock shaft and cylinder rotates 180 degrees, and the key will only go in or come out at 0 degrees and 180 degrees.
The shaft turns the whole time the key is turning, so I don't see any way to "cheat" to get it to work. The replacement cylinder requires 180 degrees of movement, and the lock cam only allows 90 degrees of movement.
This hasn't been a good week for parts. Nothing that I've bought has worked!
-DV
The lock shaft and cylinder rotates 180 degrees, and the key will only go in or come out at 0 degrees and 180 degrees.
The shaft turns the whole time the key is turning, so I don't see any way to "cheat" to get it to work. The replacement cylinder requires 180 degrees of movement, and the lock cam only allows 90 degrees of movement.
This hasn't been a good week for parts. Nothing that I've bought has worked!
-DV