timing
#1
timing
well had some time today so i checked the timing for the distributor. odd that it was at 8 degrees. moved it forward to about 14 and left it. seems to work good there, starts good and revs good.
how did it get to 8 degrees? could my distributor have gradually moved? i know for a fact we put it to specs when we dropped the engine in years ago.
how much more can i go? will the benefits get better for gas milage and power or will they taper down before it PINGs?
the truck felt alive when i drove it after the new adjustment. speed was great and pickup was getting better. still needs to work on the gradual slope incline; it likes to reduce speed even as i push further on the pedal until it kicks into 3rd and revs up.
how did it get to 8 degrees? could my distributor have gradually moved? i know for a fact we put it to specs when we dropped the engine in years ago.
how much more can i go? will the benefits get better for gas milage and power or will they taper down before it PINGs?
the truck felt alive when i drove it after the new adjustment. speed was great and pickup was getting better. still needs to work on the gradual slope incline; it likes to reduce speed even as i push further on the pedal until it kicks into 3rd and revs up.
#4
I just timed mine for the first time after buying it. Before I changed it it was at 8*. I too thought this was strange and I set it back to 10*. After I tightened everything back down I rechecked it and it was back to 8* so I set it to 12* instead so it would land on 10*. Maybe whoever timed yours had the same thing happen and never rechecked it after tightening the bolt. It doesn't take much wiggle to lose 2*.
#5
just make sure the engine is good and warmed up. its also smart to pull battery cables for a good 10-15mins. reconnect and then drive the truck for a good 30mins in various driving conditions. this allows the computer to relearn.
you and advance just make sure you arnt detonating then back off a degree or two. also regapping your plugs to .50 or .55 helps once the timing has been advanced.
you and advance just make sure you arnt detonating then back off a degree or two. also regapping your plugs to .50 or .55 helps once the timing has been advanced.
#6
Why is it needed to pull the spout connector out when doing the timing? if i already set the timing, disconnecting the spout and battery the required time will help? ar is it a procedure i must follow all over again?.
I know the commonly known best set is at 13.5 - 14 degrees BTDC (i'm currently at 10, might change that now) and a spark plug gap of .50 - .55 but didn't know the spout connector had to be disconnected. Where is it located again?
I know the commonly known best set is at 13.5 - 14 degrees BTDC (i'm currently at 10, might change that now) and a spark plug gap of .50 - .55 but didn't know the spout connector had to be disconnected. Where is it located again?
#7
Why is it needed to pull the spout connector out when doing the timing? if i already set the timing, disconnecting the spout and battery the required time will help? ar is it a procedure i must follow all over again?.
I know the commonly known best set is at 13.5 - 14 degrees BTDC (i'm currently at 10, might change that now) and a spark plug gap of .50 - .55 but didn't know the spout connector had to be disconnected. Where is it located again?
I know the commonly known best set is at 13.5 - 14 degrees BTDC (i'm currently at 10, might change that now) and a spark plug gap of .50 - .55 but didn't know the spout connector had to be disconnected. Where is it located again?
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#8
Why is it needed to pull the spout connector out when doing the timing? if i already set the timing, disconnecting the spout and battery the required time will help? ar is it a procedure i must follow all over again?.
I know the commonly known best set is at 13.5 - 14 degrees BTDC (i'm currently at 10, might change that now) and a spark plug gap of .50 - .55 but didn't know the spout connector had to be disconnected. Where is it located again?
I know the commonly known best set is at 13.5 - 14 degrees BTDC (i'm currently at 10, might change that now) and a spark plug gap of .50 - .55 but didn't know the spout connector had to be disconnected. Where is it located again?
#9
How will it move the timing? i was able to set it with the lamp and a the mark (i made also a visible mark on the rotating part). It isn't that i disagree with any of you, i just want to know so if that is the case, then i'll have to correct or at least check the setting again. Thx for the replies, as i this .
Oh! and thx for the picture! that was more than enough.
Oh! and thx for the picture! that was more than enough.
#10
How will it move the timing? i was able to set it with the lamp and a the mark (i made also a visible mark on the rotating part). It isn't that i disagree with any of you, i just want to know so if that is the cases, i'll have to correct or at least check the setting again. Thx for the replies, as i this .
Oh! and thx for the picture! that was more than enough.
Oh! and thx for the picture! that was more than enough.
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/fil...r_Workings.pdf
also pages 17-18 here:
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/files/eectch97.pdf
#12
what is the reason for changing the spark gap?
so far i have experienced very ****ty gas milage but when i fill the tank again and drive i will be more thorough with the milage. at first it was a bat out of hell when i was driving regardless of the transmission problem, but the gas gauge needle moved pretty quick for less then 80 miles.
anyone confirm 18-20mpg out of this engine? gonna go to the parts store to get some new spark parts cap rotor and maybe wires
so far i have experienced very ****ty gas milage but when i fill the tank again and drive i will be more thorough with the milage. at first it was a bat out of hell when i was driving regardless of the transmission problem, but the gas gauge needle moved pretty quick for less then 80 miles.
anyone confirm 18-20mpg out of this engine? gonna go to the parts store to get some new spark parts cap rotor and maybe wires
#13