well had some time today so i checked the timing for the distributor. odd that it was at 8 degrees. moved it forward to about 14 and left it. seems to work good there, starts good and revs good.

how did it get to 8 degrees? could my distributor have gradually moved? i know for a fact we put it to specs when we dropped the engine in years ago.

how much more can i go? will the benefits get better for gas milage and power or will they taper down before it PINGs?

the truck felt alive when i drove it after the new adjustment. speed was great and pickup was getting better. still needs to work on the gradual slope incline; it likes to reduce speed even as i push further on the pedal until it kicks into 3rd and revs up.

 

you did pull the spout connector when you adjusted the timing correct?

 

yes i did. and inserted it back in when i was done.

 

I just timed mine for the first time after buying it. Before I changed it it was at 8*. I too thought this was strange and I set it back to 10*. After I tightened everything back down I rechecked it and it was back to 8* so I set it to 12* instead so it would land on 10*. Maybe whoever timed yours had the same thing happen and never rechecked it after tightening the bolt. It doesn't take much wiggle to lose 2*.

 

just make sure the engine is good and warmed up. its also smart to pull battery cables for a good 10-15mins. reconnect and then drive the truck for a good 30mins in various driving conditions. this allows the computer to relearn.

you and advance just make sure you arnt detonating then back off a degree or two. also regapping your plugs to .50 or .55 helps once the timing has been advanced.

 

Why is it needed to pull the spout connector out when doing the timing? if i already set the timing, disconnecting the spout and battery the required time will help? ar is it a procedure i must follow all over again?.

I know the commonly known best set is at 13.5 - 14 degrees BTDC (i'm currently at 10, might change that now) and a spark plug gap of .50 - .55 but didn't know the spout connector had to be disconnected. Where is it located again?

 

The spark output (spout) connector is right under the cruise servo.It is just inboard of the driver side hood hinge.

 

With the SPOUT connected the computer will move the timing around A LOT and you will not be able to set it. That part is required. Unplugging the battery afterwards is optional (voodoo, IMHO).

 

How will it move the timing? i was able to set it with the lamp and a the mark (i made also a visible mark on the rotating part). It isn't that i disagree with any of you, i just want to know so if that is the case, then i'll have to correct or at least check the setting again. Thx for the replies, as i this .

Oh! and thx for the picture! that was more than enough.

 

page 4 gives a brief description of how the tfi & eec work together:
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/fil...r_Workings.pdf

also pages 17-18 here:
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/files/eectch97.pdf

 

The factory generally has the timing set at a much "safer" point than is optimal. It's better for them to be safe than sorry.

 

what is the reason for changing the spark gap?

so far i have experienced very ****ty gas milage but when i fill the tank again and drive i will be more thorough with the milage. at first it was a bat out of hell when i was driving regardless of the transmission problem, but the gas gauge needle moved pretty quick for less then 80 miles.

anyone confirm 18-20mpg out of this engine? gonna go to the parts store to get some new spark parts cap rotor and maybe wires

 

very off topic but i found a brand new in the box stull billet grill in the garbage that fits my truck. made in the USA this one isn't cheap by any means. will install it this weekend

 

18-20mpg out of a bronco? no way

 

it will be hard breaking the news to some douchebag kid on youtube with his 3 step goal of getting 30+ out of his bronco.