Dirty filter, problems?
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: West Texas
That type of filter isn't bad. I still don't like them anymore though. I had to rebuild a couple turbos last year on these engines and one whole rebuild on the engine from those darn things leaking on the stock airbox. They all had the plastic holddown screws too.
If you look at how the o rings are set up there is one of the top that keeps oil pressure where it belongs on the injector and from leaking out under the valve cover. That is the first one to fail normally and it is supposedly the strongest one with a steel backup ring.
The one under it separates oil and fuel and I have only rarely seen them fail entirely but they do leak by when they get old. There was a redesign on the orings several years ago and so far I haven't had to replace any of them again. Aliant makes them and they only cost from 6-8 bucks per injector. It's not that bad.
If you look at how the o rings are set up there is one of the top that keeps oil pressure where it belongs on the injector and from leaking out under the valve cover. That is the first one to fail normally and it is supposedly the strongest one with a steel backup ring.
The one under it separates oil and fuel and I have only rarely seen them fail entirely but they do leak by when they get old. There was a redesign on the orings several years ago and so far I haven't had to replace any of them again. Aliant makes them and they only cost from 6-8 bucks per injector. It's not that bad.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Kearney, Nebr
You can kind of see the wear on the top o-ring in the picture. There essentially just start to wear down on side of the o-ring. At least, that's how mine were. Every injector had the same symptoms, just some worse than others.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Well, I got the passenger side changed out last night. Took my time and looked at things as I was going, was pretty easy once I figured out what was what. My #1 glow plug got hot in the connector, I will assume it is not working. I see the gasket side is easy to change, what about the other side?
The o-rings were getting hard for sure and I saw some signs of cracking on some. The biggest thing I saw was that the upper most one was trying to push through the gap in the metal ring. That created a little bit of a "V" there. Going to do the other side this evening, should be simple now that I know what I am doing. What do you guys recommend for injector cleaner? Just ATF?
Derek
The o-rings were getting hard for sure and I saw some signs of cracking on some. The biggest thing I saw was that the upper most one was trying to push through the gap in the metal ring. That created a little bit of a "V" there. Going to do the other side this evening, should be simple now that I know what I am doing. What do you guys recommend for injector cleaner? Just ATF?
Derek
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From: Levittown
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Junior User
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Hard to say since it is not a DD, but I would say 4 quarts or so. With the tranny issues I have had I have hardly drove the truck in the past year, which is why I think the algae in the tank is a very valid issue. I am taking a trip from MO to CA next week so I am treating both issues and hoping to get rid of a problem.
I havent searched for it yet, but what all is involved in buzz testing the injectors and what does that tell you?
Derek
I havent searched for it yet, but what all is involved in buzz testing the injectors and what does that tell you?
Derek
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
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From: Ashland City, TN
Lots of guys will say the buzz test is a waste, the CCT is the good way to test.
If your backup is working that hard, then you probably should replace the o-rings.
Good o-rings are so important for these injectors, they are not like pencils with that stly orings.
The purpose of a backup is to make sure the o-ring doesn't smush in on the object that its on. It's not really to hold back the pressure. Most people get that a bit backwards.
It just stops the "crush" factor when you jam it in. Even the backups can go bad though also. I'm not sure how though.
If your backup is working that hard, then you probably should replace the o-rings.
Good o-rings are so important for these injectors, they are not like pencils with that stly orings.
The purpose of a backup is to make sure the o-ring doesn't smush in on the object that its on. It's not really to hold back the pressure. Most people get that a bit backwards.
It just stops the "crush" factor when you jam it in. Even the backups can go bad though also. I'm not sure how though.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Got the rest of the o-rings changed out tonight. I had the fpr off fixing an o-ring I pinced and I think I finally smelled algae. I just switched over tanks to this tank that has had fuel in it for about 5 days. I coudnt smell diesel at all, just a nasty smell.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Well after taking a while to bleed the air out of the system it seems to be up and running again, I am going to take my trailer out for a spin to see how it acts.
I checked my codes and the only thing that I show right now is 113, intake air temperature high circuit. This truck has a cone filter with absolutely no IAT sensor that I know of and has been like this since I have owned it. So I need to add a sensor or resitstor in? Also, is the connector over by the fuse box? I tried searching for pictures or info about the IAT and didnt come up with what I was looking for.
Derek
I checked my codes and the only thing that I show right now is 113, intake air temperature high circuit. This truck has a cone filter with absolutely no IAT sensor that I know of and has been like this since I have owned it. So I need to add a sensor or resitstor in? Also, is the connector over by the fuse box? I tried searching for pictures or info about the IAT and didnt come up with what I was looking for.
Derek
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,791
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From: Ashland City, TN
yea, its over in that area.
Dont sweat it, it wont do anything.
Sensor was probably removed actually, thats why youc annot find it.
It shoudln't throw a code if the sensor is sitting on the fender.
Well, tahts my understanding of it at least.
Dont sweat it, it wont do anything.
Sensor was probably removed actually, thats why youc annot find it.
It shoudln't throw a code if the sensor is sitting on the fender.
Well, tahts my understanding of it at least.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Yea, I know it is not there at all. There is an open connector by the fuse box, was wondering if that is the one for the IAT.
Also, was doing some reading and it seems that there are prefered cps's. Do I need to get the "best" model? It seems as if these sensors are very intermittant from what I have read. I am wondering if this is contributing to my hesitation problem. I was playing around listening to the truck and it had sort of a miss at 1,250 RPM. I shut the truck off for a few and then tried it again and it was not there.
I did this while I was checking fuel pressure, which was 62 at idle and spiked up close to 100 under wot sitting still. I never saw the pressure drop, I guess to do it correctly the truck would need to be under load?
Also, was doing some reading and it seems that there are prefered cps's. Do I need to get the "best" model? It seems as if these sensors are very intermittant from what I have read. I am wondering if this is contributing to my hesitation problem. I was playing around listening to the truck and it had sort of a miss at 1,250 RPM. I shut the truck off for a few and then tried it again and it was not there.
I did this while I was checking fuel pressure, which was 62 at idle and spiked up close to 100 under wot sitting still. I never saw the pressure drop, I guess to do it correctly the truck would need to be under load?
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Picked up some cleaner for the tank and also got a new cps from International. I also took the truck for a spin lightly loaded and the surging is still there. Maybe the cps will take care of that.
