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Yesterday, after driving it for a while, I stopped and shut down at the mall. Came back a couple hours later and everything went to hell.
When you turn the key to run position, the lights dim a little because the glow plug cycles. Voltage seems ok. Crank it and you hear the relays but nothing. Took the key out and tried again and again but no joy. Theft light wasn't flashing like it should be.
I changed fuses and what not but no joy. Hit the panic button on the key fob and shut it down. Locked and unlocked doors. After that, it glowed and cranked. Seems to be ok even today. No CEL yet but will have to see if there were soft codes on Mon.
I've had similar problems. What kind of PATS do you have? Mine is the Ford logo'd module behind the dash to the right of the steering wheel. It was obviously installed post factory. Still acting weird, but hasn't left me stranded yet.
I've had similar problems. What kind of PATS do you have? Mine is the Ford logo'd module behind the dash to the right of the steering wheel. It was obviously installed post factory. Still acting weird, but hasn't left me stranded yet.
I have only what Ford gave me. No other alarms.
BTW, I changed programs and even took off the chip I have. Still, if it was the chip, why should it work now?
I don't have the PATS on mine at all so no experience there so I am just throwing out a couple of "possibilities". Are your batteries/connections all good, clean, tight? Any codes turn up or have you not had a chance to get that checked?
No codes as yet. It seemed to start well. If the battery was weak, why would it suddenly start up in spite of the fact that I did glow it a few time? I am thinking that maybe the starter might have one bad spot?
If you want ideas thrown out there, the first thing that comes to mind is a flakey starter solenoid.
In the absence of codes, it is going to have to be SWAGs. I hear something in the cabin clicking when I crank it. As I said, the lights dimmed when you glow it but NOT when you try to crank it and it doesn't crank.
I don't think the PATS should click when you try and crank. Can you tell where the clicking is coming from? Chattering relays while trying to crank is usually weak batteries or a loose/corroded ground.
I don't have PATS, so you'll have to explain the theft light not flashing part. I don't know when it flashes or not. Do you have a service manual and checked there to see if there is some symptom chart that might help with PATS?
Made sure it isn't something simple like the shift lever getting loose and the truck thinks it's in reverse?
I don't think the PATS should click when you try and crank. Can you tell where the clicking is coming from? Chattering relays while trying to crank is usually weak batteries or a loose/corroded ground.
I don't have PATS, so you'll have to explain the theft light not flashing part. I don't know when it flashes or not. Do you have a service manual and checked there to see if there is some symptom chart that might help with PATS?
Made sure it isn't something simple like the shift lever getting loose and the truck thinks it's in reverse?
The relay clicked when you crank and when you let off it clicked again. It wasn't chattering. Seemed like it was coming from the fuse panel area either inside or outside
The theft flashing light should be blinking furiously if there is a bad key. It wasn't therefore indicating that PATS said the key was fine.
I don't think so. I tried to crank it in every gear selection. I kept it cranked and moved the shifter from P to 1
If it sounds to be in the fuse panel area, try swapping some relays around. PCM for the blower motor. You might also pick up a cheap volt gauge that you can plug into the cigarette lighter and make sure it's not some voltage issue.
I got one from walmart for $15. It matches the voltage reading that AE picks up exactly.
If batteries are good and you're hearing relays click, I'll just throw out to you to check easy stuff. Check the connections at the starter solenoid, making sure the smaller "ignition" trigger wire is on there. And it's easy to test that solenoid, just like you would the GP relay, or you can jump the terminals with a screwdriver just to see if you can get the starter to turn over. Without being there, that's all I can come up with, other than what you suspect with the GEM, PCM, or PATS system.
A new development. The other day when the temp was around 8 deg, the batteries were not up to snuff. I changed them both out. I had a thought.
Is it likely that the batteries were not up to snuff and causing this problem? I know both the sets of terminals were tight. So, could the battery be running the truck at one point, shut down, glow it and then not have enough juice to turn the starter for a bit and suddenly find more power? It seems highly unlikely but just tossing out a theory.
Yes. My wife's truck had a no start last winter. Turn the key and it just clicked. I had her wait till after the glow plugs cycled off then try to start. It fired up without the additional draw of the glow plugs and I bought her new batteries the next day.
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