Are copper header gaskets a good idea?
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Are copper header gaskets a good idea?
I assume they are. I searched the archives and found references that say do not use paper material type gaskets and I remember someone suggesting copper a number of years ago. Is that what is meant by non paper or are there other types that are better or worse? I want whatever is best. I hate leaky headers! I am dropping my 460 back in my '79 F-150 SWB 4x4 this week. It has L&L fenderwell exit headers. Thanks for any advice. Also does anyone have any suggestions for header gasket vendors? Are they all the same or does quality vary?
Tyler
'79 F-150 4x4 SWB, D60 f/r, C6, np205, 31" BFG Mud T/a's
92 Ranger 4x2 2.3, 5pd
80 FORD L8000 3208 Cat, Allison Auto, 11' Drott Plow
Tyler
'79 F-150 4x4 SWB, D60 f/r, C6, np205, 31" BFG Mud T/a's
92 Ranger 4x2 2.3, 5pd
80 FORD L8000 3208 Cat, Allison Auto, 11' Drott Plow
Lead Driver
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You get what you pay for in header gaskets. I would still use some sealer on the copper ones. 460 gaskets will go on either way. One way shuts off about 1/4 of the opening, so make sure you get them on the right way. Keep checking the bolts, for a long time.
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Thanks im getting ready to bolt up a new set of Doug Thorleys to my 1988 460 EFI motor and with all the emission junk around the headers the last thing i want to do is retorque header bolts or worse yet replace the header gaskets
Thanks
bigLar
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From: WY
For a daily driver I would get copper gaskets. Like mark said, make sure you get them facing the right way so you dont cover up part of the port.
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Remflex Gaskets
I just finished my 460 reinstall (also with L&L fenderwells) and used Remflex graphite gaskets combined with stage 8 header bolts. The gaskets are VERY thick, and compress about 50% to help seal imperfections, and their cost isn't that much more than a set of paper gaskets. The bolts have a clip thingamajiggie (for lack of a better word) that keeps them from rotating back out. They were however obscenely expensive. (about $4.00.... per bolt) So far, no leaks, but it hasn't been many miles since install. I heat-cycled and retorqued twice before installing the locking clips. As a side note to those with experience with backwards gaskets, how much hp (on a nominal 400 hp engine) do you think I was losing with one side gasketed backward?
Jeff
Jeff
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I got mine locally at Baxter's Auto Parts. I think that they're primarily a northwest outfit/ quasi-speed-shop. I've seen them online at Summit, and I imagine Jegs has them as well. Couple of things to look out for. Unless you have CJ heads, and I doubt it, make sure you get the 3010 gaskets and not the 3011. Easy mistake for a less than knowledgeable counter guy to make. Also, regarding the bolts, when I pulled the headers, I removed 3/4" ARP bolts that the previous owner had installed the L&Ls with. So, if you can image, about a half an inch of flange combined with another 16th or so of gasket doesn't leave much length for penetration. I would suggest at least one inch bolts, and perhaps test fitting a 1-1/4 and seeing if you have the depth for that. (I did, but I'd already purchased the 1" bolts.
Jeff
Jeff
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I've had good luck so far (3 months) with Remflex gaskets. Don't buy them from remflex, they want $40 + shipping, I got mine from Amazon for $29 with free shipping. I've only retorqued mine once on my daily driver, no leaks so far.
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