Transmission rebuilding
Steve
i spoke a an old timer who advise me to just get a rebuild kit and go at it.
i want to put a tow and go shift kit in mine while i'm at it.
it sure would be nice is one could take a night course at the local school for this.
good luck and keep us posted.
Tom C is right. The Mitchell books that can be found at the pubic libraries are a good start. Also, the Ford factory manual is a must.
Before I rebuilt one I bought a used C6 and took it apart. I learnt most of what I needed to know before I started on the one I rebuilt. There will be 3 clutch packs that you will either have to fabricate a tool or get help from a tranny shop to open a replace the seal.
If you take your time, you can do a better job that a shop. Where I live there are transmission places that will rebuild a C6 for $325 / 335 installed. It will cost me $225 for a seal kit and fiction material. Is the extra $100 worth the risk???? What ever you do, stay away from AMCCO etc. Their costs can easily exceed $800 for a $300 job.
Food for thought.
Steve
what do you think of shift kits?
Should you replace the Torque converter???? Depends on what type of failure that you had. If you had a clutch pack burnt and sent particles trough out the unit - definably replace it!!! If you are rebuilding the unit because it getting a little sloppy you might consider to not to replace it. But first consider the following…
When you drain the pan check the oil, if it is black, burnt or contains a lot of fiber or metal particles or if the case is badly varnished up, replace the torque converter. You can't get this stuff out of the torque converter yourself!! Older transmission shops can power flush the unit if you can find one that has the equipment. So….do you really want this stuff in the oil of your newly rebuilt transmission, and take the risk of a fragment getting in the valve body or cutting a seal on a clutch pack = good bye rebuild.
Before you consider keeping the converter check the shaft for ridges, score marks where it contacts the front seal, wear marks on where it engages with the pump. Did your old transmission leak at the front seal or is there lot and lot of miles on the transmission??? This could indicate that the surface is marked and if so, your new seal will not last long if you keep the old converter.
Shift kits hammer in the clutches and allow for little slip. They tend to be a bit harsh for me. If you have thousands of HP they are probably a must. Personally, I don't like them. When I drive with a big load or I am towing I ease up on the gas and manual shift. Give time for the transmission to fully engage and then hammer back on the gas. My 70 F350 is a 10,000 lbs motorhome, going up a hill you gotta' do this as it's close to full throttle and once a clutch pack starts to slip its game over!!!! If you do use a shift kit, use F type fluid, as it does not have the slip additives for the clutch packs and will give you a tight shift.
I hope all of this helps. Now I've gotta' go back to work. If you have any questions, ask away but I am going off line till Nov 19. Gone to Hawaii.
Later
Steve





