Hey guys, i have 96 150 4x4, 351 auto, eo40d i think... extended cab. My ls doesn't ever lock up both wheels. I recently changed the fluid and added the additive. I put a little too much additive. Would that hinder it from limiting slip or what. If so, i am going to drain it and use alot less. I would like it to work better.

By the way, I'd love to have a green camper shell if you got one ( or any color) short bed

 

go to a parking lot and do figure eights for awhile.

not real fast.

it may loosen up the clutches.

 

i want it too lock up.... how would that help?

 

Time to rebuild the clutch packs

 

That's great. :)
But where in the heck are you? :/

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Lift one rear wheel off the ground.
Can you turn that wheel?
What does it take to turn that wheel?

My '91 Bronco's 8.8 LSD is shot. :/
I can turn the empty hub with my bare hands, it's so shot. LOL :)
That's the product of the guy before me running a 31" tire on
one side and a 29" tire on the other for about 30k miles.

My old '75 F150, I can tighten and loosen the lug nuts and not
turn the wheel.

Alvin in AZ
ps- Here's the ad for my "July of '90" Bronco...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/BroncoAD
pps- So now you know how he could drive it with different sized
tires on either end of the axle... he's just not that smart. ;)
ppps- I still haven't driven it! LOL :) ...still workin' on it. :)

 

If you do a search here you should find some additional reading on this subject. The short version is the way these LS diffs are setup from the factory they will never lockup, and technically that's not supposed to happen anyway because it's a limited slip not a locker. But... you can get near locker performance by restacking the clutch packs with alternating plates and by shimming the stacks a little tighter. I have done this on several trucks including my own with very good results.

 

Less additive will make the clutches crab harder too.

 

I have done the same with excellent results.

 

Ford says that if there is at least 20 foot pounds of resistance before the wheel turns-that the limited slip is working correctly. This is when one wheel is in the air and the other rear wheel isnt.

But this is just testing the LS spring preload mainly.

A limited slip has to have torque applied to it by the engine and at least one rear wheel with resistance before the clutches can be fully applied. This is why it is said that sometimes one should partially apply the parking brake to engage the limited slip clutches .And this is why there is minimal wear and clutch engagement when corning-the engine torque is low usually in a tight turn.

My 113k mile original factory limited slip works just fine. It gets me up my steep snow covered drive way with out one wheel slipping in two wheel drive. Or in worse case-both rear wheels will slip-not the fault of the limited slip.

 

20ft/lbs.. that's funny, I bet mine is more like 100 now using the same test method and all I did was restack the clutch packs. BTW.. the factory installs the clutches in these trucks with 2 steel plates side by side in each stack so it's never going to provide much traction. Broncos are apparently stacked with alternating clutch disks.

 

Cool, I'll look for all that when I tear into my '91 Bronco's 8.8. :)
Don't know when that'll be tho. LOL :)
My plan is to use Ford carbon discs.
Supposed to be grippy-er and last longer both.
That's important to me since I'm swapping it from "3wd" to 2wd.

Alvin in AZ