I'm so confused...
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 28
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From: Warrensburg, Missouri
I'm so confused...
the starter on my 88 IDI went out so i pulled it off and headed up to the parts store. the first thing i did was have the "bad" part tested and sure enough it failed. next i said give me a new one. then came the problem. every starter that they had listed to fit on my truck was not even close to the one that i pulled off. i eventually ended up finding one that looked and had the same specs as mine, but it is supposed to go on a 95 Powerstroke! i thought it was weird but i took it home and put it on the rig. now when i turn the key the motor spins but the bendix wont kick out and catch the ring gear on the flywheel. can any one give me some advice please?!?
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Warrensburg, Missouri
but the starter that i took off the truck didn't have a nose cone at all and that is why i bought the stroker starter...cause it was identical to the one that i took off. how many teeth should be on the starter gear? the one i took off AND the one i bought have 12 teeth but the one with the big nose cone has 13. i don't know what i need.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Dave do you have a preferance between the two. I have never used or even seen one of the nippendenso starters.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
The Nippondenso I had was one of the old style, that had the top bolt that was impossible.
I had to cut a wrench to so I could turn passed the frame to get it out, or settle for 1/8 turn and move the wrench.
I see in the newer ones, they have reclocked the case enough that it looks like you could use a socket and extension to get the top bolt.
I was so mad I switched to the Mitsubishi where I could use a socket and extension.
But the newer Mitsubshi's are so long that you have to hold it just right so the nose cone goes in the bell housing just right and the other end clears the cross member.
I'll still take a Mitsubishi over any of the others though.
I had to cut a wrench to so I could turn passed the frame to get it out, or settle for 1/8 turn and move the wrench.
I see in the newer ones, they have reclocked the case enough that it looks like you could use a socket and extension to get the top bolt.
I was so mad I switched to the Mitsubishi where I could use a socket and extension.
But the newer Mitsubshi's are so long that you have to hold it just right so the nose cone goes in the bell housing just right and the other end clears the cross member.
I'll still take a Mitsubishi over any of the others though.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 28
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From: Warrensburg, Missouri
i got it all taken care of and figured out. i found out thatthe guy that had the trck before me modified a stroker starter to fit and that was the root of all my problems. i got one of the Mitsubishi starters and it works perfectly. Dave is right when he says you have to hold it at just the right angle to get it to go into the bell housing. the top bolt is kinda difficult to get to but you can get to it with a socket and extension. the hard part is that you are kinda flying blind on it cause it is on the top and you cant see. thanks a lot guy you all are so much help! Oh and it cost right around $150
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
When I do mine, I use an extension/socket combination that is 1/2" longer than the starter and go behind the solenoid to get the top bolt.
Works like a charm.
Back when I bought mine, 435 dollars with a lifetime warranty at NAPA.
And they have replaced it several times.
Works like a charm.
Back when I bought mine, 435 dollars with a lifetime warranty at NAPA.
And they have replaced it several times.