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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 06:41 AM
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heater core replacement

I have an 02 250. This weekend the heater core went bad (anti-freeze all over the windshield and coming out of the vents). I still had some heat, for a while. I loosened the cap on the resevoir to see if that would help cut down on the pressure shooting AF all over the windshield. It was really hot inside the cab for a while. I stopped and shut the engine off for about 20 min and when I started it up again, just cold air blowing. I tightened the cap back up, but it was still cold. Did I air lock it somehow? I'm changing the heater core now, but didn't know if something else is wrong too. Sorry for such a long post.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 07:44 AM
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Not that this pertains to your troubles but it might be a good time to change the t-stat and ELC coolant if it has been in there a long time.Start off with a new one.
 

Last edited by riverrat41; Jan 20, 2010 at 07:44 AM. Reason: adding
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 08:10 AM
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Depending on how much coolant you lost,low coolant level would cause no heat.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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The new heater core will refill once you top up the coolant and raise rpm.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 09:52 AM
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Thanks. I'm having a hard time finding new quick disconnect clips that fit over the heater core pipes. The originals are too small for the new core I bought. What a pain in the butt.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 09:54 AM
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What about using some worm gear clamps?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by riverrat41
What about using some worm gear clamps?
I might end up using them. I didn't realize that it would be so hard to find new ones that fit. The new core pipes are .007" bigger than the old ones.
It's a tight space under the cowl, I wasn't sure I would be able to get the clamps tightened up. I've never had to do much with this truck, so this is new to me.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 11:50 AM
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Stay after it,you are doing fine.You will be plenty proud when you done,then your next mod or repair starts.....
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by riverrat41
Stay after it,you are doing fine.You will be plenty proud when you done,then your next mod or repair starts.....
Thanks. I hope to finish it tonight.
Hopefully the next one will be a mod and not a repair. What are the Cold A/c and true cool mods? (the ones in your signature).
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by wvwirenut
Thanks. I hope to finish it tonight.
Hopefully the next one will be a mod and not a repair. What are the Cold A/c and true cool mods? (the ones in your signature).
The true cool mod most likely refers to adding a TruCool tranny cooler.

Cold A/C refers to a mod to recirculate the coolant back to the block before it reaches the heater core when using the A/C, that is if your truck doesn't already have a vacuum actuated recirculation valve.

Here's is my version of the Colder A/C Mod. Photobucket Link.

Here is something that I didn't address in my Photobucket write-up: If you only want the valve to operate in "MAX AC" setting just tee into the white HVAC vacuum line instead of the red one. In the winter I pull the vac line at the valve and plug it and the valve and the system reverts to normal.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Robin has the answers
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by riverrat41
Robin has the answers
Barry,

I just followed someone else's idea.

Here is Pete's (F_250) work of art pdf on the "Colder A/C Mod". LINK
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 05:26 PM
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I got the new heater core in and it gets hot. NOW....I don't have any heat inside. Is there a damper or something that might be bad?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 08:57 AM
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Did you get the blend door motor hooked back up correctly?
It's that unit on the top of the heater housing that had to come off to be able to remove the panel.
 
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