I'm having trouble removing my turbo out of my 97 F350 7.3L. I have a fuel leak that appears to be coming from under the turbo. Is there an easy way to get the bolts out ot the tube on the back. Thanks

 

There is a thread going on now on removing the turbo. I haven't looked but its gotta be on this page or the next. Any leak from under the turbo should be oil I would think. Are you sure its not coming from up further ie the fuel pump?? Check the steel fuel lines also from the pump to the heads

Welcome to fte.

 

Thanks. Its fuel for sure and appears to be coming from under the turbo. I'll double check.

 

from things i have read you don't have to take the turbo off to change the fuel pump which might be where you leak is coming from

 

How do I get this feul pump off without removing the turbo

 

OK Casey....
WELCOME TO FTE!!!! This is your 24/7 online help!...WE are the best people on the net wanting and willing to help you out. If you need to change your fuel pump you don't need to pull the turbo! EVEN if it is a Cali model! Check it out: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/61...ml#post4782663
Where are you from anyway? Is it leaking from a weep hole? or do you think it may be a loose banjo bolt that need some tightening...how many miles do you have and what kind of mods do you have???

 

I couldnt get that link to work. I cant see any fuel leaking above or around the turbo. It looks like leaking under it. Excuse my ignorance but I'm not even sure whats under there. Thats part of the reason I want to remove it. This is a great source of help. Everyones input is appreciated.

 

IIRC (if i recall correctly) there are three 10mm bolts to be taken out, the back right one is the hardest, use an extension on a 1/4 " socket with a swivel to go around the right side of the turbo to get the bolt. Its like a triangle of the three bolts. Then you lift it off with the pedistal and when you put it back on replace the o rings under the pedistal. Please correct me guys if I'm wrong, its been maybe four years since I've done it.

 

I may need to take some pics. It looks like its leaking from a brass line under the pedistal. Whats worrying me is the tube in the back. The bolts are rusted and being a **** to get off.

 

Are you sure its not coming from one of the steel fuel lines I mentioned above??

If you have to take the pedestal off there is 4 bolts. 2 in back and 2 in front. 2 in front are easy. 2 in back suck. In order for me to get the drivers rear off ( I just did this a couple weeks ago) I had a short 1/4 drive socket, 1/4 knuckle next, 1/4-3/8 adaptor next, 6" 3/8 extension next, 3/8 knuckle next, 3/8 to 1/2 adaptor next, then a 1/2 ratchet to have enough power to snap the bolt loose. You may not need all those, but I did and made it work. There are two orings b/w the pedestal and turbo and 2 b/w the pedestal and motor. All they should leak is oil though. If you do pull the turbo I'd for sure replace those too.

 

Thanks for the info. Its raining too hard to work on it right now. Good ol sunny california

 

dont mean to steal the thread but ive asked this question a few times and no one ever answers how do you know if your modle is a cali model ( i'm sure it has to do with the vin right?)

 

To pull turbo off the pedestal...

There are 4 bolts, in a rectangular pattern. Driver's side rear is the pain... I never saw it until I had it our. Only way it came out was with a bunch of help from the guys here.

The socket "stack" I used started with a 1/4" drive swivel socket. Clearance right above the bolt is tight, needs a lot of torque, so I got a high-quality swivel socket. Anyhow... 1/4", swivel, adapter to 3/8 then 1/2, extension to firewall height, 1/2 x 24" breaker bar, and pipe on the breaker bar. A good trick is to rest the head of the breaker bar on a 2x4 block on the firewall, so you can put your effort into torque rather than keeping the "stack" in line.

To get everything started... take part of your stack in right hand and lay over the valley. Reach left hand around behind the turbo and under the up-pipe. Drop stack down from driver side. Use left hand to guide the stack until it drops onto something and won't turn... that will be the bolt head.

Get off the valley, get to driver's side fender, put on the rest of the "stack" and breaker bar & pipe, rest breaker bar head against wood & firewall, and push. Hopefully the bolt breaks free rather than something breaking. Once the bolt is moving, replace breaker bar with ratchet. Once bolt is totally unthreaded, put a magnet on the stack so bolt comes out with stack.

Reassembly is the reverse. Getting the o-rings to stay in place in the pedestal oil passages is tricky.

 

You guys are good, I stand corrected. Of course, my memory isn't that good but at least I remembered three out of four bolts, lol.

 

That 4th bolt is such a PITA that your brain tries to forget it!

Seriously, I tried an inspection mirror and still couldn't see the thing. Felt around until the socket went on something and wouldn't turn, and just hoped it was the right bolt-head. Luckily, the bolt is the only thing near there for a socket to latch on to.